Took my new ROS150 for a test drive last night. This is my honest opinion.

[Bill Wyko]

What a machine!!!! At first I felt it was a little chubby and big to hold but when I turned it on and started sanding I realized that this ain't no Black & Decker. This Thing need 2 hands and the wood needs to be mounted down solid when used in the aggressive mode. When used in this mode though, it will take down the deepest imperfections on the hardest woods. In this case it was figured Bubinga. The thing that worried me was, will it make the surface uneven. What I found out was, by being able to take material down that quick, it allows you to sand over a larger surface and get fast results. This actually makes your work come out more even rather than being wavy like when you have to use the edge of lesser sanders. I did set it on the fine setting and it was a lot easier to handle which also lends to its use for detail sanding. I also tried it a various speeds too. This allows you to control the aggressiveness in any mode as well. I can honestly say this is by far, the best sander I've ever picked up and I have over 10 sanders including air sanders with a comparable price. Nothing else even comes close. The big question now is, where to store the other sanders(no systainers for them) ;D IMHO Money well spent.

 

[monte]

Bill, if you do any work with brass or soft metals......you might want to take a look at the viles pads that are available.

I use them a lot for applying a brush finish and applying patinas.

I also use the viles pads for applying an aged finish to either stained or painted wood.

(after next week I could go into this in greater detail)

all the best,

Monte

 

[Bill Wyko]

Thanks Monte. I've never done a patina but I'm very intrigued by the process and the results. Please keep us informed on your projects. Thanks.

 

[Bill Wyko]

Just got done with the 150 tonight. You almost have to learn how to sand all over again. With all my other sanders, to get a rough spot I'd tilt it. With this sander you just hold it over the spot a little longer, add a little more preasure and the spots done. This helps prevent trenching into the surface. I never knew I could enjoy sanding What a concept ;D.

 

[nickao]

Bill I agree. I am to where I actually use the 150 one handed a lot now. I love this sander! I use the viles pads and they are awesome for polishing my brass inlays.  I also use them to refresh my cast iron tables too.

I am glad you like the sander as much as I do.

Nickao

 

[Warrior]

Just got done with the 150 tonight. You almost have to learn how to sand all over again. With all my other sanders, to get a rough spot I'd tilt it. With this sander you just hold it over the spot a little longer, add a little more preasure and the spots done. This helps prevent trenching into the surface. I never knew I could enjoy sanding What a concept ;D.

Bill,
I think you may just be  getting a much larger trench than before with that technique.  I just sand the entire surface evenly without regard to where the imperfections are until they all dissappear. This may take a little longer but in rotary mode not much. This ensures that the material is removed at a consistent thickness and the surface stays flat.

Eiji

 

[Bill Wyko]

In this case the wood is so hard that I work the area slightly more, then the area around the troublesome spot. It sure makes it easier to keep it uniform across the piece. I'm used to sanding for a long time. This thing gets it done in no time. I ultimately check my surface with a straight edge in the end. If the wood were softer it would be a bigger issue but because it's so hard, it makes it easy to keep it uniform. I bet this thing will go through Pine like butter.

 

[nickao]

Bill I use a lot of super hard woods like Ipe, Massarundba, Cumaru, etc and find the same thing you do. If you do not work high spots longer you can not get the surface flat. And I tipped the sander just like you and find you do not have to do  that with the Rotex, its great.

The wood is just to hard to level out like it does when I am using Walnut, American Cherry or even Oak. With these woods and similar hardwoods Eiji technique works great.

A big problem I have is when something like Pine is directly next to Ipe. One super soft wood next to the super hard wood makes the traditional sanding techniques with the sander  impossible. You can not just go over the entire surface hoping it will all come out flat, it won't. The difference in hardness is just to great. Especially if the project has severe high or low spots to begin with.

I really think it is the user of these sanders that really make them work well. Everyday I get better and better with this Rotex. My brother used it for 15 minutes and hated it. I think the learning curve could be a week for the average user. It is worth the time.

Nick

 

[Bill Wyko]

IMHO a sander that can save me the kind of time this one can, might as well be made of gold. I've always disliked sanding the most. Now it's kind of fun. I see results right away. ;D