Tool to cut 8x12

[Machiyalily]

Hi,
I've begun planning and buying tools for my retirement cabin which I plan to begin building in May, 2017.  It's a log cabin and I'll need to be able to make square and plumb cuts on 8x12 logs to butt against each other.  I'll then join them with a butterfly joint.  Which tool, Festool or otherwise, do you recommend? 

Thanks for any help.

Mark

 

[peter halle]

First, welcome to the FOG!  Is it safe to assume that you are in Japan? I only ask because tool availability is different globally.

Peter

 

[Holmz]

A timber framing forum would be better for timber framing.
I do not believe Festool does a lot in timber framing.

There is a Mafell ZXEc400 and similar by Makita I believe.
Their Z5ec is probably exactly right for you.

I have no idea where to look for the older Makita stuff.

There is also a saw conversion that is in a post on here (In the last year) using a large magnsium Milwaulkee circular/worm drive saw, and a chain saw. 

No matter where you are located most of this stuff is 230v.

 

[Machiyalily]

Peter,
Yes, I am in Japan.  However, much of the material, and the logs will be directly imported.  I hope to bring back a batch of Festools and some other items next June.  I'll use them to build a workshop first and then start the cabin after that.  Most of the tools on my list are 40 to 60 percent cheaper outside Japan. 

Thanks,
Mark

 

[Machiyalily]

A timber framing forum would be better for timber framing.
I do not believe Festool does a lot in timber framing.

There is a Mafell ZXEc400 and similar by Makita I believe.
Their Z5ec is probably exactly right for you.

I have no idea where to look for the older Makita stuff.

There is also a saw conversion that is in a post on here (In the last year) using a large magnsium Milwaulkee circular/worm drive saw, and a chain saw. 

No matter where you are located most of this stuff is 230v.

Holmz,
Thanks for the information.  Right now my default is a beam saw that is used in timber framing.  I like the ZE you mentioned but for the price and size of the cabin I'll probably use the beam saw.  On the other hand I was hoping to find a tool or option that wouldn't be such a "one project" tool and would also be more useful in the shop after the cabin is completed. 

Thanks,

Mark

 

[unityroad]

[attachimg=1]

 

[peter halle]

Festool has the Sword saws that could be available to you outside the US.  Something that I used this summer that might work in place on a sword saw - and economically perhaps - would be the Prazzi Beam saw attachment attached to a worm drive saw.

Peter

 

[Holmz]

You either need the used Makita equivalent, the prazi, or the Mafell and sell it when you are done.
I like the look of the prazi. Halle did a post on them.

 

[MaineShop]

Here is a place up in my neck of the woods, I have never used them but have heard good things. Their website could be a resource for you. It could give you an idea on brands.
http://timberwolftools.com/index.html

 

[Holmz]

The other question is, "are you importing a generator (230v), or do you require Japanese power? I think that is 100v/50Hz.

Getting new tools in 230/50 is easiest, but the older Japanese equipment in 120v/60 would work if you could find them used.

I believe that even the FT Sword saw is NAINA, so it must be 230v... As are most of the others. Hema, Mafell, (Makita maybe 120v)...

 

[rvieceli]

You might want to take a look at this thing from BIGFOOT Tools. It is attached to a normal chainsaw and kind of turns it into a giant jigsaw.  [eek]
http://bigfootsaws.com/bigfootproduct/head-cutter/

I have seen folks use these to gang cut rafters. ijoists, etc.

Ron

 

[Kev]

A big yes to the Festool Sword Saw for large framing timber work.


.. by our top Festool calendar bunny .. Phil [big grin]

[member=41214]Phil Beckley[/member]

 

[Peter_C]

Here is a cost effective option, although not necessarily the best option. Some of the stuff posted above is pretty sweet. Someone living in the woods will have multiple chainsaws, and lots of people, especially framers, swear by the worm drive saws that is most commonly used for power in the link below. They have two options listed.
http://www.praziusa.com/

 

[Holmz]

A big yes to the Festool Sword Saw for large framing timber work.


.. by our top Festool calendar bunny .. Phil [big grin]

[member=41214]Phil Beckley[/member]

The little 200 is not really a large saw. Their ISP 300 is 50% larger.
The Hema and Mafell are more like 400-mm.
Whether he needs 200, 300 or 400 is another question.

One could make a cogent argument that Festool "owns" the furniture, cabinet stuff, and sanding market, but Hema and Mafell are timber framing.
One does sees little in Festool that for the TF industry.
And there is little in Mafell that is for the smaller work, in comparison to the big gear. What they do have in the small stuff seems to be in the last decade or two.

 

[Kev]

A big yes to the Festool Sword Saw for large framing timber work.


.. by our top Festool calendar bunny .. Phil [big grin]

[member=41214]Phil Beckley[/member]

The little 200 is not really a large saw. Their ISP 300 is 50% larger.
The Hema and Mafell are more like 400-mm.
Whether he needs 200, 300 or 400 is another question.

One could make a cogent argument that Festool "owns" the furniture, cabinet stuff, and sanding market, but Hema and Mafell are timber framing.
One does sees little in Festool that for the TF industry.
And there is little in Mafell that is for the smaller work, in comparison to the big gear. What they do have in the small stuff seems to be in the last decade or two.

[member=40772]Holmz[/member] Yes - I'd probably go beyond my little sword saw if I was cutting beyond ~175mm ... but you'd be restoring an old warehouse or building a pier for a ferry. That said, I was recently eyeing off some 250x250x3000 bluegum posts that'd make a nice feature [embarassed] [sad]

 

[Holmz]

[member=13058]Kev[/member] - I would like to get my forepaws on those posts

 

[Kev]

[member=13058]Kev[/member] - I would like to get my forepaws on those posts

[member=40772]Holmz[/member] sorry ... brainfart [huh] ... I should have said spotted gum ...
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/HARDWOOD...50x250x3000-/181984590749?hash=item2a5f207b9d:g:kwMAAOSw3xJVeWga

Shipping would be the killer for you.

Also these would hold up a small city:
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Iron-Bar...259f457&pid=100005&rk=1&rkt=6&sd=181984590749

The iron bark probably makes a steel girder alternative look cheap when you consider it's $250 per metre!!

 

[Machiyalily]

Thank you all for your comments. 
I love the Mafell idea but I suspect it will be too expensive for me.  The sword saw is not quite long enough for my cut if I read its specs correctly    I like both the Big Foot and the Prazi as affordable solutions.  I could use either of them with a jig or use the Prazi with a circular saw and rail system.  While the construction of the Big Foot looks superior to the Prazi, one thing I like about the Prazi is the ability to have the trigger control in a familiar location relative to the cut.  I tried some freehand cuts with a chain saw and discovered I have a unique talent to be off in one or more dimensions by anywhere from 3 to 5 degrees and in a perfectly random fashion. 

The logs I need to cut are "D" profile which also limits my options.  The inside 12 inch surface is flat, the outside 12 inch surface is rounded and the top and bottom are essentially flat but have either a tongue or a groove which can be easily fixed with a jig.  It means, however, that the depth of cut needs to be slightly over 300 mm.

I am primarily on 100 volt 60 Hz but the shop will also have 200v supply for some of the equipment.

Thanks again for all of your advice and if there is anything I can do for you here in Japan, let me know.

M 

 

[Phil Beckley]

A big yes to the Festool Sword Saw for large framing timber work.


.. by our top Festool calendar bunny .. Phil [big grin]

[member=41214]Phil Beckley[/member]

  [embarassed] SSU 200 is a personal favourite
rg
Phil

 

[Holmz]

Maths:

...
  [embarassed] SSU 200 is a personal favourite
rg
Phl

...
It means, however, that the depth of cut needs to be slightly over 300 mm.
...

300 is > 200