Track saw plunge cuts

[treesner]

Do you guys use the backstop for plunge cuts? What about when not using the track. Wondering how fast I can plunge into 3/4 birch ply. I have to remove waste and not worried about accuracy normally with my circ saw I just start on the front of the base and plunge in but festools pushes in forward which makes me think there's more chance of kick back

 

[grobkuschelig]

If you have no chance of clamping the saw down or using the backstop, I've found the saw to be quite prone to sometimes bad kickback. What helps in my experience, is to have both hands firmly on the saw and plunge slow and with consistent speed.

If you find a magic way, please share!

 

[Bob D.]

I tried my Woodpeckers SSTOPs in the top T-track on my rail and they fit nicely.
When flipped up they do not overhang into the saw path and I was thinking they
might work as travel stops for the saw when you want to be sure not to cut past
a certain point and/or you use one as back stop too.
http://www.woodpeck.com/ssflipstop.html#2922

I've had my DeWalt track saw for about 4 years and I don't think I have ever
experienced kickback with it but that may be because the DeWalt has a anti-kickback
feature built into the saw. You engage it by rotating a knob on the saw and it grabs
the rail and only lets the saw move in a forward direction.

It's easy and fast to disengage if need be. Works well. The DeWalt also plunges straight
down not in an arc like the Festool saws do.

 

[DrD]

Had one really bad kick-back with TS75 - wasn't using the backstop, and made my 1080 rail look well used.  Now 1) I use the backstop, and 2) plunge at a slow, steady pace - I believe the latter may be the most important.

 

[Poindexter]

Had one really bad kick-back with TS75 - wasn't using the backstop, and made my 1080 rail look well used.  Now 1) I use the backstop, and 2) plunge at a slow, steady pace - I believe the latter may be the most important.

Same here.  And it was on a 1080 rail too.  My first time using it I didn't know about the backstop.  Shame on me for being the moron that didn't read the directions when using something dangerous.  Lucky I only damaged some of the rail's cosmetics.

I wouldn't use this saw without the track nor the backstop in a plunging situation.

 

[treesner]

I've been using mine without the track because they sent me the wrong size and yeah not very good.. anyone seen a mod to make the blade stay down? The track is so small that it's hard to plunge down outside of the material and go in. Got some kick back first time I tried to plunge in so unfortunately this saw is going to make part of my process slower. Guess I have to keep my circ saw around.

Saw this mod for holding depth

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[treesner]

I tried my Woodpeckers SSTOPs in the top T-track on my rail and they fit nicely.
When flipped up they do not overhang into the saw path and I was thinking they
might work as travel stops for the saw when you want to be sure not to cut past
a certain point and/or you use one as back stop too.
http://www.woodpeck.com/ssflipstop.html#2922

I've had my DeWalt track saw for about 4 years and I don't think I have ever
experienced kickback with it but that may be because the DeWalt has a anti-kickback
feature built into the saw. You engage it by rotating a knob on the saw and it grabs
the rail and only lets the saw move in a forward direction.

It's easy and fast to disengage if need be. Works well. The DeWalt also plunges straight
down not in an arc like the Festool saws do.

Makes me want the dewalt. Maybe if they drop the battery powered one before my 1 month festool trial.. do those little stops let the saw go past them when not flipped down?

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk