Trimming edge banding on veneered plywood

[DarrenM]

I have a Conturo and an MFK700 and I'm using them to edge band some new kitchen cabinets. I've used this combo before with PVC edge banding on melamine and it worked very well.

This time, I'm using 1mm white oak banding on prefinished birch plywood. I have the MFK dialled down as close as I dare without touching the plywood, but I'm still left with some glue to deal with.

With PVC banding on melamine panels, I just use that flat carbon steel cutter thing to trim the excess and it works perfectly. But this time I'm afraid of scratching the plywood because the face veneers are so thin these days.

Is there some kind of solvent that dissolves the hot glue without softening the finish on the plywood? Maybe acetone or something?

I will try a few things on a piece of scrap but I thought maybe someone here would have experience with this.

Thanks

 

[tiralie]

Acetone on a rag works. I do scrap a majority of it off with the carbide that comes with the Conturo. Alternatively a no file bit on the 700 works well to remove a majority of the glue.

 

[Sparktrician]

That Amana No-File bit is the best! https://www.amazon.com/Amana-Tool-47150-No-File-Laminate/dp/B000637V9E/ref=sr_1_1?sr=8-1

 

[DarrenM]

Ok thanks guys, I'll look into those options.

 

[Packard]

I don’t have that machine, but I generally trim with a 2” wide chisel held at an acute angle. I have also used a fine signle-cut metal file for trimming high pressure laminate. And a sanding block for trimming wood trim. I hold the sanding block or file at about a 30 degree angle and only use the push direction for trimming. The slight angle minimizes the tendency for items to hook onto the trim and pull it free while in use.

Lately the surface veneer on plywood is so thin that it is very easy to sand through—so use sanding blocks with care. The 30 degree angle keeps the abrasive off the plywood surface.

 

[tjbnwi]

The Festool carbide scraper will trim the edge without scratching the finish as long as you have the string properly wrapped on the trimmer. This sets the trimmers approach angle. The picture on how to wrap the string is on the case.

When using the trimmer I skew it slightly in towards the panel.

Tom

 

[Packard]

I would note that you should pay attention to the grain of the edge banding. If you go against the grain, the banding edge will chip up.

 

[Crazyraceguy]

The Festool carbide scraper will trim the edge without scratching the finish as long as you have the string properly wrapped on the trimmer. This sets the trimmers approach angle. The picture on how to wrap the string is on the case.

When using the trimmer I skew it slightly in towards the panel.

Tom

I am 100% in agreement with this. It is one tool I waited way too long to get for myself.
Dragging a sanding block, at an angle, over it as a last pass, can greatly improve the feel of the edge too.
As far as the glue. First, adjust your machine down, so you minimize this. Second, the same carbide scraper can be used completely flat, on your panel. It will take of anything sticking up, without gouging the surface. Just be sure to keep it clean, don't get residue under it. That can cause scratches, though that pre-finished stuff is usually pretty tough.

 

[DarrenM]

I don’t have that machine, but I generally trim with a 2” wide chisel held at an acute angle. I have also used a fine signle-cut metal file for trimming high pressure laminate. And a sanding block for trimming wood trim. I hold the sanding block or file at about a 30 degree angle and only use the push direction for trimming. The slight angle minimizes the tendency for items to hook onto the trim and pull it free while in use.

Lately the surface veneer on plywood is so thin that it is very easy to sand through—so use sanding blocks with care. The 30 degree angle keeps the abrasive off the plywood surface.

Yes, a sharp chisel or plane actually seems to work better than my MFK700 on prefinished plywood anyway. I tried my Veritas flush plane and to my surprise, it works extremely well and it’s also much quicker than using the router and carbide scraper.

 

[DarrenM]

I would note that you should pay attention to the grain of the edge banding. If you go against the grain, the banding edge will chip up.

Good advice. I have noticed that I have to change direction on some pieces in order to avoid this.

 

[Crazyraceguy]

Good advice. I have noticed that I have to change direction on some pieces in order to avoid this.

That's why I like the MFK700, you can climb-cut the edge and never tear anything. I also use a 3/4" diameter bit in it. That changes the angle of "attack" which cuts even smoother.