Truck bedslide. Any one have one?

J

Jonhilgen

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Dec 26, 2009
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Jon
I looked at them before and could not get over the prices.At the time it was around $2000.00
So i built one myself.Works pretty good and a lot cheaper!
 
What mastercabman said. Make one, no doubt, and purchase Festools with the savings.  [eek]
 
Hi Jon, 

We have three trucks, and all three have Bedslides.  It's been a while since I bought them, but none were close to $2000 (even the heavy-duty model  that I have in my one ton truck).

If you know how to weld and have a welder and access to heavy-duty rollers, it would be easy enough to build one.  They aren't really sophisticated, but they do work well.  The only problem we have ever had was on one Bedslie, the cable release thing snagged on something, and we had to fight a bit to get it out. I called the company and they sent the replacement parts at no charge within a few days.

The only downside to these things is the reduction of clearance vertically under the truck cap.  The heavy duty model is taller by a little bit, and occasionally we can't fit something in the truck because it's too tall to clear under the cap.
 
I've thought about building one, and saw an article in This is Carpentry too. 

As I was just pondering having a metal shop weld somthing together for me on the cheap (He always undercharges me), it occurred to me why can't I use garage door rollers and tracks instead of casters?
 
Jon,i don't think those rollers will hold the weight.Believe me,by the time you load the tray it will get very heavy.
I made mine out of wood and 2" rollers.no tracks needed,it just rolls on 1/2" ply that i put down on the bed.
I also put a couple rollers on the top to stop the tray to tilt when it is pull out.
 
In "the toolbox book" from Taunton press, they have one article with a home built version of something like this. More like multiple boxes iirc.

Might want to check it out.

It's available as an ebook now too
 
mastercabman said:
Jon,i don't think those rollers will hold the weight.Believe me,by the time you load the tray it will get very heavy.
I made mine out of wood and 2" rollers.no tracks needed,it just rolls on 1/2" ply that i put down on the bed.
I also put a couple rollers on the top to stop the tray to tilt when it is pull out.
Click to expand...

How did you mount the rollers on top and what keeps it from rolling all the way out of your truck?

Jon
 
Jonhilgen said:
mastercabman said:
Jon,i don't think those rollers will hold the weight.Believe me,by the time you load the tray it will get very heavy.
I made mine out of wood and 2" rollers.no tracks needed,it just rolls on 1/2" ply that i put down on the bed.
I also put a couple rollers on the top to stop the tray to tilt when it is pull out.
Click to expand...

How did you mount the rollers on top and what keeps it from rolling all the way out of your truck?

Jon
Click to expand...
Jon i built storage/shelves in the back of the truck.I have 2 side walls that holds shelvings and also holds the 2 rollers that keeps the tray from tipping.I also have a couple blocks of wood mounted on the tray so that it will stop the tray to slide out.
Let me take some pictures and maybe it will help you understand.
 
OK here's some pictures of my set up.I just did this a couple months ago.I had a wider tray before but it was too big and a little too heavy.so i made some changes,smaller tray and more fixed  shelves.This seem to work for me.At least for now.
The second pic,you can see the rollers on the top.This will prevent the tray from tipping.I was going to use 2 rollers per sides but this is working so far.
The last pic shows how low i have the tray by mounting the rollers over the 3/4" ply that use for the floor.I think i have about 1/2" clearance.The more rollers you use,the better.
Hope this gives you an idea.
 
I like the set up, and I think you're right, I should build one and put the money toward a Kapex...because I'm seriously eyeballing the one in the back of your truck!

I think the garage door track could bear the weight though.  But casters might be easier.

Thanks for uploading the pics.

Jon
 
thats very clever mastercabman, i would be tempted to go the same route, only i mostly use my bed for transporting full size panels and solid boards aswell. Not sure how i could combine both.
 
Jonhilgen said:
I like the set up, and I think you're right, I should build one and put the money toward a Kapex...because I'm seriously eyeballing the one in the back of your truck!

I think the garage door track could bear the weight though.  But casters might be easier.

Thanks for uploading the pics.

Jon
Click to expand...

If you want to go the "garage door parts" route, use the 'semi-trailer' (Todco) version. They are both stronger and lower profile. The track is also better suited for 'over the road'.

Regardless of whether you choose to build or buy, you WANT one of these, ESPECIALLY if you are working out of a covered pickup. It will change your world!
 
Harry, I think I saw a post of yours with a pic of your bedslide a while ago.  It was an aha moment.

I wouldn't mind building one, but the problem with most of my personal projects is that they never turn out as nice as I would like, mainly because I can't find the time.  Yet when I'm building something for a client I never have that problem!

1500.00 doesn't seem like that much, considering I don't have to spend my time to make anything.  But then I'm sure I could build one for much cheaper, only it will look and function like its much cheaper...

Jon
 
I inherited mine, so other than the maintenance cost of replacing bearings from time to time, price is/was not a factor for me. Knowing what I know from having mine for about ~4 years now, it is a better VALUE than dare I say, a KAPEX. Unless of course you happen to like emptying 1/2 of your truck so you can climb up and in to get to something against the bulkhead of the bed.

If/when you install one, see if you cant get something worked out to "smooth out" the sides/fenderwells. When I load mine, there is a 'little giant' type ladder on the left fender, and a home made case for rails & levels on the right. I make it a point to stack things that will catch (cords, hoses, random loose shoosh) on the right. This way if the cargo decides to shake loose any, the catchy things only have the smooth box to rub against. On the left side, I load 'smooth' things on the tray (read: systainers) so there is nothing to catch on the ladder.

The links to images posted up-thread are of units that appear to be of higher quality (sturdier) than mine. Mine also has a plastic pan/tub (whose shape is now somewhat distorted, no places for tie-downs, and (near-)zero potential for quality modification or bracketing.
 
Harry, would it be worth purchasing a besdlide with a 100% extension at a little more cost?  The "bedslide" brand only extends 80%, which means I will still have to reach in to grab things that I need. 1000 Pro se model.  WWW.bedslide.com

Also, the bedslide brand has muliple stop locations every 10-12", but a different full extension brand does not.  I guess what I'm getting at is whether a full extension without multiple stops is better that 80% extension with stops.

Thanks,

Jon
 
Jon, only rarely have I wished that our Bedslides extended 100%.  My arms are long enough to reach to the remaining area of the Bedslides which doesn't extend out all the way.
 
Jon,

I would have to agree with Rob. It it the rarest of occasions where I think it would be nice. I would also be willing to bet that you would sacrifice an 1" or more of vertical clearance in going full extension.

I tend to load my truck with all the 'finger food' (read: systainers) close to the front and my 75# SCMS at the very back with the trash. They may steal my chop saw, but they ain't gonna run with it! It is also a good bet that unless the derelicts know my truck, they won't notice the roll-out, and possibly get a hernia trying to pick it up reaching over the tailgate.
 
harry_ said:
Jon,

I would have to agree with Rob. It it the rarest of occasions where I think it would be nice. I would also be willing to bet that you would sacrifice an 1" or more of vertical clearance in going full extension.

I tend to load my truck with all the 'finger food' (read: systainers) close to the front and my 75# SCMS at the very back with the trash. They may steal my chop saw, but they ain't gonna run with it! It is also a good bet that unless the derelicts know my truck, they won't notice the roll-out, and possibly get a hernia trying to pick it up reaching over the tailgate.
Click to expand...

Harry,
Don't you have a topper or some kind of cover over the bed?

Depending on what a person carries and where they place it on the extension.... 80% or 100% is for the  user to decide most likely ... I would lean toward the full.

My ultimate would be the Cargo Sprinter with full back and to side doors... and metal build in....  I'm hearing that many guys and companies are make the payments off the fuel savings difference from moving from a gas truck/pickup....

Cheers,
Steve
 
Also, the bedslide brand has muliple stop locations every 10-12", but a different full extension brand does not.  I guess what I'm getting at is whether a full extension without multiple stops is better that 80% extension with stops.
Click to expand...

Mine only has 1 stop, flush to the end of the lowered tailgate.

@Steve,
Yes, fiberglass cap. I was also taking having a cap as a given.

What's the mpg on a sprinter? I can squeeze out 17 with my pickup fully loaded.
 
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