TS-55 or TS-75

[breetz]

I'm about to purchase one of these. The question is, which one. I'll mostly just be cutting plywood and an occasional hollow or solid core door. I've been reading everything I can find and I know the differences between the two saws. There might be a case where I'll need to cut deeper than the TS-75 depth cut limit, but not very often. Do I need the additional power? Is the additional weight an issue. The price stings a little, but it's really not a consideration. If I need it, I'll get it. I'd like to hear from someone who's tried them both. Thanks

 

[Brent b]

I have not used both so I cannot specifically address your quandry but would like to point out that if you make angled cuts you lose depth (pythagoras).
Brent

 

[Frank Pellow]

I recently upgraded from the earlier version of the TS-55 (the ATF 55 E) to the TS-75. My new saw only weighs about one kilo more than the old one and I don't find the extra weight to be any problem at all.  I really like the extra depth, particularly when cutting at an angle.

 

[bruegf]

After a lot of agonizing I finally decided to go with the TS55 and haven't yet wished I'd gone with the TS75.  My main reason for buying was to cut 4x8 sheets easier.  Plus by saving money by going with the TS55 I justified getting the MFT.  Isn't it amazing what you can do with a bit of creative rationalization

I still have my old Skil saw if I ever need the extra cut depth.

Fred

 

[breetz]

Thanks for the replies, this is very helpful. So I'll ask more questions.

-Does anyone see a legitimate need for the 118" guide rail? I'm sure it would be nice to have but $250 is an expensive "nice to have". An additional 55" rail is much more economically feasable.

-I've read that when you connect two 55" rails, you need to start with a plunge cut. Does that leave a funky cut with tearout?

-When two 55" rails are joined does the rail tend bow in the middle while you are cutting, leaving you with a slightly concave cut?

-Actually, does the 118 guide rail bow or bend during cutting?

 

[Frank Pellow]

I own three 1400 mm rails and have no problems at all joining two or even three of them. 

 

[Brent b]

breetz,
I join two 55" together and have not used the 118", although it is recommended with the TS75.  There are posts on this board how to join two shorter rails together, but what I find is that I need to true up the total length of the two parts with an edge that I know to be straight.  After that the guide connectors are very strong and rigid and do not allow for deflection or any other imprecision.  The trick to getting a good clean cut is setting up a deflection free platform from which to do your cutting.  The only funkiness I have with my setup is when the material is not supported well and the guide rail overhang deflection is not taken into account, which you would get with a longer rail tool anyhow.  I like to setup my guide rail, while cutting 96" length so the majority of the overhang is placed on the start side so I have less plunging to do.  Save the $250 and get an MFT.  I use mine EVERY day.  It's the first thing I setup on the job.
Brent

 

[Ned]

breetz,

You might consider getting the 1900 (75") rail.  It's more useful than a second 1400:  the 1900 by itself gives generous beginning and end zones when you're cutting 48" (no plunge cutting).  The 1900 joined to the 1400 is equally nice in the same way when cutting 96".

Be sure to get two of the rail joiners.  They sell them individually, but your rails can use two and that makes for a sturdier connection.

Ned

 

[James Metcalf]

You have been given good advice about the rails. I have both saws and use the TS-55 95% of the time, because of lighter weight. It has good power. Every one on this site has had the same problem you have of which saw to buy? In the past we had a pole and most members had the 55,but it all boils down to what your use is. You can always buy the TS- 75 later or try one and if you do not like it return in under 30 days.

 

[Brice Burrell]

  I really don't have much to add, but I will give my opinion on same of good points already posted. First, the size of the 75, it is larger than the 55, and being so needs longer rails to make cuts, keep this in mind when buying rails. I'm like you, cutting mostly ply, I went with the 55, no regrets. Ned's got it right, pick up a 75" rail, crosscutting 48" sheets with the 55" rail means you will start with a plunge, not the way I like to do it, so I have a 75" rail. Now the 118" rail, if you rip sheets of ply everyday, the 118" is a better option than joining rails. You need to handle two rails joined together very carefully to keep them aligned, it slows the process down a little. Having your sheet goods well supported is a must to get the best results from the TS55/75 saws, and it is safer too. Oh, and I'm with Brent, the MFT has been a great addition to collection. Good luck, report back and let us know how it works out.
Brice

 

[breetz]

You're right, I've gotten just what I've been looking for.

So my plan is to order:
TS-55 ($440)
75" rail ($145)
2 rail connectors ($25)
Type FSZ 120/2 Clamps ($32)
Total $642

Originally I was going to order
TS-75 ($560)
118" rail ($250)
2 rail connectors ($25)
Type FSZ 120/2 Clamps ($32)
52 Tooth Fine Tooth Saw Blade ($94)
Total $961

That's a pretty decent savings. Maybe, once I get my first taste of Festool, I'll become a believer and consider getting a MFT. Thanks everyone for all your help. I wish there would have been a pre-marriage discussion group. I'll bet that would have saved me some money.

 

[Brice Burrell]

......Maybe, once I get my first taste of Festool, I'll become a believer and consider getting a MFT.....

Maybe?? You will be just like the rest of us, hooked. Apply for your Festool Visa card now. 

 

[Brent b]

I was initially very reluctant with the MFT, but after research picked one up.  Now I have three.  But this is a guy who idea of workbench was sawhorses and a old door or plywood offcut.  The MFT was like a door opening up in the space time fabric.
Brent

 

[minimal]

You're right, I've gotten just what I've been looking for.

So my plan is to order:
TS-55 ($440)
75" rail ($145)
2 rail connectors ($25)
Type FSZ 120/2 Clamps ($32)
Total $642

Originally I was going to order
TS-75 ($560)
118" rail ($250)
2 rail connectors ($25)
Type FSZ 120/2 Clamps ($32)
52 Tooth Fine Tooth Saw Blade ($94)
Total $961

That's a pretty decent savings. Maybe, once I get my first taste of Festool, I'll become a believer and consider getting a MFT. Thanks everyone for all your help. I wish there would have been a pre-marriage discussion group. I'll bet that would have saved me some money.

Congrats, you saved almost enough for the vacuum you're about to buy.

Using our special FOG logic: "That means it's FREE!"

 

[Corwin]

One advantage to the 118" rail is that if you were to have three MFTs you could mount that long rail on the guide-rail brackets -- I haven't wanted to try that with two 'connected' rails.  Until then, either two of the 55"s or a 55" and 75" will work for you 8' cuts -- the 75" rail is really nice for the 4' cuts and is what I consider a minimum for cutting 5' Baltic birch.

 

[John Langevin]

Breetz you are well on your way down the slippery green slope. Another option for rail use would be the rapid clamp which is faster and easier to use when working solo, however the clamps you mention can be used on your soon to be purchased MFT (the one you don't yet know you are going to buy!). Seriously though, for panel ripping or crosscutting an open frame cutting table is cheap and easy to build and when topped with a ridgid foam sheet works very well. The rail accessory kit is a good value and may prove useful to you for angle cutting, joining rails and offers additional clamps cheaper than if purchased separately. If the length of your rails necessitates plunge cutting be sure and get a rail stop (also included in the accessory kit), it is the key to kickback-free plunge cuts. Good luck with your new toys, er tools.

 

[Michael Kellough]

If...plunge cutting be sure and get a rail stop (also included in the accessory kit), it is the key to kickback-free plunge cuts.

I second the suggestion to get a rail stop or two but the key to kickback free plunge cuts is simply a controlled steady motion with one hand while holding the saw base down with the other. Installing a rail stop behind the saw base will prevent the saw from creeping back.

 

[Brice Burrell]

  Remember the TS saws come with a limit stop, I think that is you guys a referring to when yo say rail stop.

 

[Matthew Schenker]

breetz,
I'll add my voice to those suggesting the MFT.  And you have the rare opportunity to buy one for just $21!!

Your refigured budget produced a $319 profit.  The MFT 1080 costs $340.  Therefore, you are actually buying an MFT 1080 for $21.

How do you like my math!

Matthew

 

[The Dude]

The MFT 1080 catalog price is $460.00 .  The MFT 1080 Basic is $345.00; with all due respect. Still a savings...It's Festool!

Timmy C