TS/TS Blade question

[es07Eric]

Part 1:
I've been working with harder solid lumber lately and it may be time to give my 36 tooth'er a rest; at least for ripping down boards.  Here is my thought process (I'm using a TS 75:

- struggles while cutting 6/4 and 8/4 hard maple and the like
- feels like an eternity to get to the end of ~2700mm of rail
- leaves burn marks on both the sides of the cut

My question(s):
- Is the Panther blade (493 196) the right blade for the resolve the above?  If not, then which blade?
- Will the Panther or recommended blade provide a clean, join, and glue ready cut?
- Or am I just doing it wrong?  Which could very much be a possibility!

Part 2:
Does the TS 55 REQ's supplied blade (48 tooth) provide a better and cleaner crosscut than the TS 75's 36 tooth?  My thought is that after springing for a 52 tooth blade for my 75 and another FS-1400/LR 32 rail, I might as well grab a TS 55 REQ!!!

I would use the 75 for solid lumber and rip cuts and use the 55 on the for sheet goods and cross cuts on the MFT.

 

[Administrator_JSVN]

Eric,

The TS 75's Panther blade is 495378. Being 16-tooth, you are going to cut faster but with the potential for more scoring on the face of the cut. Tooth count is a compromise between speed and quality of cut. But, I'm surprised that you're getting burning and that the cut is going so slow. Are you sure the blade that you're using is clean and sharp?

Regarding the TS 55 REQ's stock blade, again the higher the tooth count (or smaller the blade diameter with the same number of teeth), the cleaner the cut. But also the slower potentially.

Shane

 

[es07Eric]

Eric,

The TS 75's Panther blade is 495378. Being 16-tooth, you are going to cut faster but with the potential for more scoring on the face of the cut. Tooth count is a compromise between speed and quality of cut. But, I'm surprised that you're getting burning and that the cut is going so slow. Are you sure the blade that you're using is clean and sharp?

Regarding the TS 55 REQ's stock blade, again the higher the tooth count (or smaller the blade diameter with the same number of teeth), the cleaner the cut. But also the slower potentially.

Shane

Shane,

Thanks for the response, yes, the blade is clean, I do my best to clean after each use.  It have no problem going through Pine, Poplar, and other softer hardwoods  of similar dimension with almost 0 burn and if there is, it is on the off cut.  It will breeze through these materials very quickly and with very little to no grumble (the sound of the motor making adjustments) and no effort at all. 

This past week, I picked up some Ambrosia Hard Maple, 6 quarter and I have never seen this saw "struggle".  I use "struggle" very loosely as I know that anything less than the TS 75 would have simply shut down.  It still performed the job and splinter free I might add. 

If I remember correctly, my settings on the saw:
Speed: 4ish
Depth of cut: 2mm below the stock and into my pine 2x4 cutting table
Vac: high (if this matters)
Push rate: slow, to where I can feel the front of the saw blade engaging the stock (this is the best I can describe)

I have have taken this very same stock through the CMS/OF 1400 to rabbet a relief and hand held routed a bead and cove with no problem.  I also cut 8x50mm Dominos into the end grain with no problem.

I have cut both Red and White Oak with no problem.  I am still happy with the results, I'm just not to thrilled about the process...

Here is what I picked up:
6/4 Hard Maple and 4/4 White Oak:
[attachimg=#]

The end result of jointing, planing and sanding, this will be a picture frame:
[attachimg=#]

 

[Administrator_JSVN]

Eric,

I'd recommend putting the saw on speed 6. The slower speeds are generally for other types of material. Wood = 6.

Also, turning the vac down some can provide additional power to the saw assuming the saw is plugged into the vac and not another circuit. Of course, don't turn it so low that dust extraction is ineffective. But, for more dense or thicker materials, it can help.

I'd suggest starting with those two tips and see what results you get.

If you continue to see issues, we can move on to checking the calibration on the saw to make sure the toe in is correctly set.

Shane

 

[es07Eric]

Ok, will do!  Thanks!

 

[grbmds]

Eric,

I'd recommend putting the saw on speed 6. The slower speeds are generally for other types of material. Wood = 6.

Also, turning the vac down some can provide additional power to the saw assuming the saw is plugged into the vac and not another circuit. Of course, don't turn it so low that dust extraction is ineffective. But, for more dense or thicker materials, it can help.

I'd suggest starting with those two tips and see what results you get.

If you continue to see issues, we can move on to checking the calibration on the saw to make sure the toe in is correctly set.

Shane

Shane,

I'm a little confused . . . The TS55REQ Supplemental Manual recommends 3 - 6 as the speeds for cutting hardwoods. I've generally not reduced the speed but, so far, haven't cut any hardwoods thicker than 3/4" or 4/4. Does Festool recommend not reducing the speed for hardwoods?

 

[es07Eric]

Eric,

I'd recommend putting the saw on speed 6. The slower speeds are generally for other types of material. Wood = 6.

Also, turning the vac down some can provide additional power to the saw assuming the saw is plugged into the vac and not another circuit. Of course, don't turn it so low that dust extraction is ineffective. But, for more dense or thicker materials, it can help.

I'd suggest starting with those two tips and see what results you get.

If you continue to see issues, we can move on to checking the calibration on the saw to make sure the toe in is correctly set.

Shane

Shane,

I'm a little confused . . . The TS55REQ Supplemental Manual recommends 3 - 6 as the speeds for cutting hardwoods. I've generally not reduced the speed but, so far, haven't cut any hardwoods thicker than 3/4" or 4/4. Does Festool recommend not reducing the speed for hardwoods?

This was my reasoning for the 4ish speed selection.  I am usually pushing a strong 5 on softer and thinner stock.  I felt that 4 was in between the recommended range for hardwood.

Shane, looks like I referenced an old P/N for the Panther blade.

Thanks,
Eric

 

[semenza]

Eric,

      That part two you posted sounds like a smart plan.

      I have cut 8/4 hard maple (rip cuts) with the TS75 and Universal (36t) blade. Hard maple can be reeaally hard and dense. It was slow going. The TS75 flew through everything else. I think the piece I was cutting was almost petrified. The Panther will make a difference when cutting that type of stuff.  But still may be slower than you expect.  If using the Panther (or even the Universal to some degree) leave a little extra width on the cut , because you will need to do some significant clean up on the edge.  Experiment with the speed but I think you will get better results on speed 6. And as Shane suggested turn the vac down some just to make sure on the power. If the cutting is slow you won't need as much suction to keep up with the dust anyway.

Seth

 

[es07Eric]

Eric,

      That part two you posted sounds like a smart plan.

      I have cut 8/4 hard maple (rip cuts) with the TS75 and Universal (36t) blade. Hard maple can be reeaally hard and dense. It was slow going. The TS75 flew through everything else. I think the piece I was cutting was almost petrified. The Panther will make a difference when cutting that type of stuff.  But still may be slower than you expect.  If using the Panther (or even the Universal to some degree) leave a little extra width on the cut , because you will need to do some significant clean up on the edge.  Experiment with the speed but I think you will get better results on speed 6. And as Shane suggested turn the vac down some just to make sure on the power. If the cutting is slow you won't need as much suction to keep up with the dust anyway.

Seth

Seth, "petrified" is actually a good way to describe the density of this piece!  I will most certainly try turning the vac down and as soon as I can find some time I'm going to get the shop setup with a couple of 20a circuits.

I'll stick with my standard blade on my TS 75 as I don't want one experience to dictate a purchase.  I am seriously still considering adding a TS 55 to the fleet.  I've got some cabinets that the wife is commissioning and the fact that the 55 doesn't require as much take off and landing space as the 75 is a plus; I'm going to  need as much real-estate as I can on the MFT!

Thank you for your advice and input!

Cheers,
Eric