TS55/75 questions

[irishman]

Looking at jumping in on the TS55 or TS75 and I have a few questions for those of you with one of them.

Background: I'm trying to get a tracksaw for breaking down sheet goods mostly.  I have a 12" table saw, but cutting angles on a 4'x8' sheet isn't any fun on the table saw.  I am not interested in the cordless saw. 

First, is the TS75 worth it just to have the longer 75" rail?

I hear problems surrounding the TS55 seem to be worked out.  Is that true?

I'll mostly be breaking down sheet goods with it.  Does that mean I should stick with the TS55?

If I get one, I'm thinking I need to get the longer track for ripping longer lengths.  Would you go with two shorter tracks and join them, or just get the long rail for 8'+ cuts?  If I do get the shorter rail, I'll probably get the LS rail because I see a router in my future as well.

How long do you need the track to extend beyond the cut length?  For instance, is the 55" rail long enough to  cross cut a 48" piece of plywood on both the TS55 and TS75?

Sorry, I'm new to this system, and don't want to have to exchange anything after I order it.

Thanks for your help.

 

[Tayler_mann]

i was in the same predicament as you about 6 months ago. I did a lot of research and bought he 55. I have yet to find an instance where I have needed the 75 except one. Which that was a very unique situation. The 55s issues have been worked out and you always have 30 days to return it if you do not like it. Remember the 75 is also very large and heavy to use. Not only that if you check the amperage on the 75 and on your dust extractor it probably is pushing your 20 amp shop circuit. The 55" length is big enough to do a 4'x8' sketchily. The 75" track would be better to cut it. My suggestion is to buy the ts55 with an additional 75" track and you'll be golden to break down as much sheet material as you want. If ii are like me though you will quickly throw your table saw to the wayside.  [big grin]

 

[Billedis]

Upgrade to the holy rail.

 

[irishman]

i was in the same predicament as you about 6 months ago. I did a lot of research and bought he 55. I have yet to find an instance where I have needed the 75 except one. Which that was a very unique situation. The 55s issues have been worked out and you always have 30 days to return it if you do not like it. Remember the 75 is also very large and heavy to use. Not only that if you check the amperage on the 75 and on your dust extractor it probably is pushing your 20 amp shop circuit. The 55" length is big enough to do a 4'x8' sketchily. The 75" track would be better to cut it. My suggestion is to buy the ts55 with an additional 75" track and you'll be golden to break down as much sheet material as you want. If ii are like me though you will quickly throw your table saw to the wayside.  [big grin]

No issues with joining the two rails together?

I'm very hesitant to throw the tablesaw to the wayside.  I love it, just not for sheet goods because they're hard to manage by yourself.  It's got it's uses though.  12" 5hp saw isn't going anywhere anytime soon...but if the track saw works out, I may shorten my fence rails on the tablesaw a little bit.

Amperage isn't too much of a concern for me.  I wired the garage with lots of 20 and 30amp circuits...and a few 30 & 50 amp high voltage circuits!  ;D

 

[Holmz]

The alternative are saws that use the Bosch rails (i.e. Bosch/Mafell), and along with the TS55 those three saws almost always form the top 3 track saws in any shoot out... So there is not a bad choice.

If you go Festool, then unless you like straight edging your rails each time, or buying the "Betterley" system, then you may be better off with a rail long enough for 8' ... which is 9+ as you need some overhang for the saw and clamps if you use them.

I use an MT55 with 64" rails (1600-mm), and 2 make 3200-mm which is 8" longer than a 3-M piece of fire-rated drywall. Clearly I should use a knife and snap it, but sometimes I like to cut it... like when I only need to take off an inch or less. I think you need about 8" so that 7" is probably just enough... A foot is better.

 

[jbasen]

I had a 55 and upgraded to the 75 when I had to cut some butcher block counter tops where the 55 really struggled.  With sheet goods the 55 never had a problem. 

Yes the 75 is heavier than the 55 but unless you are cutting with it all day I just don't see a problem.  With more power comes more weight.

On the negative side there are 2 things I find frustrating about the 75

1) There is no dedicated splinter guard for the 75 and the 55 splinter guard only engages properly when cutting thicker material.  The work around for this is to modify the splinterguards using half-inch-shy's design.  The modification works fine but but it is a pain to have to do this yourself vs. having a saw that can, out of the box, properly cut a piece of standard plywood

2) There is no cover plate for the 75 to improve dust collection.

If all you plan on doing with the saw is cut sheet goods I think the 55 is the saw that Festool has designed for that.  If you want one saw that will cut anything then the 75 will do that but be prepared to start modifying splinterguards so you can cut sheet goods with it.

 

[semenza]

      TS55 unless you plan to do regular solid wood ripping (and even then the right blade will take care of most things). 55" track is just long enough to make 48" cuts. The 75" track is better, and allows length for diagonal cuts.  If shop based I would get the 2700 or 3000 rail too. Joining rails can be done very well in a number of ways but it is just an added nuisance in my opinion. 

      Not sure about the UK, but in the USA some dealers will swap out the rail that comes with the saw to a longer one for the price difference. If not then having the 55" and the 75" is (along with the 3000) not a bad thing. Having the right length for various length cuts is just more convenient.

Seth

 

[irishman]

      TS55 unless you plan to do regular solid wood ripping (and even then the right blade will take care of most things). 55" track is just long enough to make 48" cuts. The 75" track is better, and allows length for diagonal cuts.  If shop based I would get the 2700 or 3000 rail too. Joining rails can be done very well in a number of ways but it is just an added nuisance in my opinion. 

      Not sure about the UK, but in the USA some dealers will swap out the rail that comes with the saw to a longer one for the price difference. If not then having the 55" and the 75" is (along with the 3000) not a bad thing. Having the right length for various length cuts is just more convenient.

Seth

So having 12' ceilings in the shop, I'm thinking it's best to have a 75" and the 3000?

 

[irishman]

On second thought, is the combo of 55" and 3000 better?  I'm thinking shorter cuts would be annoying on the 75" rail.

 

[zapdafish]

I have both and really don't like cutting sheet goods with the 75. It is alot heavier and because of that, more often than not, the guide rail moves on me if I don't clamp the rail to the board. But goes through 2" thick white oak like butter.

I've also found that using a really long rail on a much shorter piece of material doesn't work out so well either so have multiple sizes.  I got this Betterley  which works pretty good.

 

[irishman]

I have both and really don't like cutting sheet goods with the 75. It is alot heavier and because of that, more often than not, the guide rail moves on me if I don't clamp the rail to the board. But goes through 2" thick white oak like butter.

I've also found that using a really long rail on a much shorter piece of material doesn't work out so well either so have multiple sizes.  I got this Betterley  which works pretty good.

Which rail do you use most often for your 48" cuts withe TS55?

 

[jbasen]

I have both and really don't like cutting sheet goods with the 75. It is alot heavier and because of that, more often than not, the guide rail moves on me if I don't clamp the rail to the board. But goes through 2" thick white oak like butter.

I've also found that using a really long rail on a much shorter piece of material doesn't work out so well either so have multiple sizes.  I got this Betterley  which works pretty good.

I always clamp my rails. To me, it just isn't worth the risk of a slight shift ruining a cut. 

These track clamps from Dewalt work really well and only take one hand to operate.

http://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-DWS5026-TrackSaw-Track-Clamps/dp/B001J31PJM/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1437146191&sr=8-1&keywords=dewalt+track+clamp

 

[Tayler_mann]

i was in the same predicament as you about 6 months ago. I did a lot of research and bought he 55. I have yet to find an instance where I have needed the 75 except one. Which that was a very unique situation. The 55s issues have been worked out and you always have 30 days to return it if you do not like it. Remember the 75 is also very large and heavy to use. Not only that if you check the amperage on the 75 and on your dust extractor it probably is pushing your 20 amp shop circuit. The 55" length is big enough to do a 4'x8' sketchily. The 75" track would be better to cut it. My suggestion is to buy the ts55 with an additional 75" track and you'll be golden to break down as much sheet material as you want. If ii are like me though you will quickly throw your table saw to the wayside.  [big grin]

No issues with joining the two rails together?

I'm very hesitant to throw the tablesaw to the wayside.  I love it, just not for sheet goods because they're hard to manage by yourself.  It's got it's uses though.  12" 5hp saw isn't going anywhere anytime soon...but if the track saw works out, I may shorten my fence rails on the tablesaw a little bit.

Amperage isn't too much of a concern for me.  I wired the garage with lots of 20 and 30amp circuits...and a few 30 & 50 amp high voltage circuits!  ;D

I know you won't stop using your table saw altogether. However, there is a statement made by jerry works that I will always agree with as a machinist. Moving your tool through your material is far more accurate than running your material through your tool. Here is a nice document about using the Mft, guided routers and track saws. He has a few other documents on sanders and the domino as well. I have implemented everything he has written pretty much into my woodworking and I am as efficient as fast as I have ever been.

http://www.festoolusa.com/media/pdf/Getting_the_most_from_the_MFT_multifunction_table.pdf

Also, I don't have any problems putting two rails together and I do it withou a jig or a straight edge. I have a 4' x 8' Mft that is flat to the .001 + or - a few. I just flip the rails ontop of the table with the splinter guards on my table and tighten the connectors down. Easy as that. If you don't have a proper table than you could make a jig with your 55" rail, router guide on the rail, and a 1400 router out of Baltic birch or even mdf for that matter. Easy as that again.

Also, other brands are cheaper (except Mafel) but they don't have a 30 day trial and they don't have free 3 year service agreements that are as easy and nice as Festools. I dropped my TS55 and found it out of square. Issued a service order sent my saw that day and had it before the week was over. They even sent me a new systainer insert since mine was cracked at one point. Also, if you need help Brent is available (hard to get ahold of sometimes) at the Festool 800 number and can really help you utilize your tools. I will say that there is problems with every tool but I absolutely love my tracksaw and all my other green. I run my own woodworking business and have invested about $7,000 in power tools and I get more done in shorter periods of time than shops that have tens of thousands of dollars in stationary equipment. I produce fine woodworks with precision and ease at the helping hand of my Festool system.

You can private message me if you won't more info and help getting started with starting a bad spending habit, but in my eyes it is investments you have for a long time to come. I've made a lot of quick easy money with my Festools and I wouldn't change any of my purchasing decisions that I have made.

 

[Doug S]

The 55" rails are fine for cross cutting 48" sheets. I have the 3m rail for ripping sheets, could not be messing about joining rails. If you buy a second rail check your saw on both as mine are totally different so I need to alter the saw every time I swap rails which is a real pain.

Doug

 

[Holmz]

Clearly if you already have tracks then it is a no brainer to get the TS55.

If you are starting from scratch, then it is a beard-stroking exercise, and usually the 220v of the Euro tools puts people back to the TS55 quickly. If the 220v is not an issue then this link: http://festoolownersgroup.com/festool-tools-accessories/bosch-or-festool-plunge-saw/ can aid in beard-stroking.

 

[mwildt]

TS55 for the work you're listing. The TS75 would be too big and heavy. My big dewalt haven't been used for years after I got the TS55. Great all round saw.

 

[Birdhunter]

I find the TS55, MFT, and Sawstop table saw plus the Kapex are a great combination. The TS55 handles 3/4" plywood with ease. I handled the TS75 and I don't like its size and weight. It is an overkill for what I do.

The TS55 with the rail is a far better option for me than trying to wrestle a sheet of plywood onto a table saw.

But, there is very little chance I'd give up my Sawstop. It is an ideal tool for my high precision work.

 

[Carl Prentiss]

The 55" rails are fine for cross cutting 48" sheets. I have the 3m rail for ripping sheets, could not be messing about joining rails. If you buy a second rail check your saw on both as mine are totally different so I need to alter the saw every time I swap rails which is a real pain.

Doug

Doug, I'm struggling to grasp this. Could you explain further? [member=34680]Doug S[/member]
-Charlie

 

[irishman]

The 55" rails are fine for cross cutting 48" sheets. I have the 3m rail for ripping sheets, could not be messing about joining rails. If you buy a second rail check your saw on both as mine are totally different so I need to alter the saw every time I swap rails which is a real pain.

Doug

Doug, I'm struggling to grasp this. Could you explain further? [member=34680]Doug S[/member]
-Charlie

I would be very interested to know as well.

What exactly needs to be adjusted?

 

[Carl Prentiss]

Ok, I'm going to guess that Doug just means tweaking the rail gib cams. Apparently I only achieve mental clarity during bouts of insomnia.
-Charlie