TS55 AND MFT QUESTION POTENTIAL BUYER

[NEW2FES]

Trying not to ask the usual newbie questions. I find myself going from a full basement shop to a 1 stall garage deal. I am looking at building some cabinets and book shelves.

Can the TS55 package have a longer rail substituted to work with the one that comes with the MFT so to be able to rip 8' panels with some overhang?

With the MFT can the bridge be mounted lengthwise in order to cut a 48" sheet?

Is there anybody selling CNC cut tops in different sizes on here?

Is the miter gauge on the MFT worthwhile or go with some other set up?

Does the bench require constant fiddling and resetting to keep square through repetitive cuts?

Thanks

 

[mouppe]

Welcome.

1. Yes- some dealers allow you to pay the incremental difference and get a longer rail with the TS55.
2. Yes- you can position the rail lengthways
3. No- some talk of this but nothing happened
4. Mixed response. Personally I like it, others go with things like Qwas dogs.
5. Generally no. Once it is set up, you should be good for a while, but it is worth checking it every now and then. Also remember to blow off any sawdust as it can affect the accuracy. The flag stops are very useful.

 

[ccarrolladams]

Trying not to ask the usual newbie questions. I find myself going from a full basement shop to a 1 stall garage deal. I am looking at building some cabinets and book shelves.

Can the TS55 package have a longer rail substituted to work with the one that comes with the MFT so to be able to rip 8' panels with some overhang?

Hi, New 2 FES,

[welcome]  to The FOG!

To expand of the answers from Richard, in theory the 42" rail standard with the MFT/3 set when coupled to a 75" rail is long enough to rip the 8' length of a sheet. You will need to purchase a pair of rail couplers.

However, even with considerable practice removing and re-attaching the MFT/3 guide rail consumes a significant amount of time. When breaking down sheets for cabinets and shelves, it often makes sense to go back and forth between ripping and cross-cutting.

My suggestion is to buy a third rail, so that you can leave your MFT/3 set up ready for cross-cutting. If in the future you want to use the LR32 system to drill shelf pin holes, then you might like to buy one regular 55" rail and one with the holes. Coupled, those total 110" which is practical for ripping 8' using a TS55.

 

[Corwin]

...
With the MFT can the bridge be mounted lengthwise in order to cut a 48" sheet?
...

...
2. Yes- you can position the rail lengthways
...

Yes and No is more accurate an answer.  Yes, you can use the guide-rail brackets to mount a longer (like the FS1400/2 55") rail across the long direction.  But, NO a 55" rail mounted the long direction on a MFT will not cut a full 48" wide piece.  What does work nice is to mount a FS1900/2 (75") guide rail across two (2) joined MFTs -- now you're cookin'.

 

[NEW2FES]

  I am getting that the bench is only worthwhile for smaller already cut pieces? I guess one could use horses of some sort to support overhang? Odd they do not make something to handle longer material?

Look like good deal with saw and table. I think I will stick with stock config and just buy the bigger rail.

Is the rail accy kit worthwhile or use an aftermarket angle guide?

Thanks for the info!!

 

[mouppe]

The rail kit is generally acknowledged to be one of the poorer Festool offerings, particularly the angle jig thing.

 

[Ken Nagrod]

I believe that a single MFT/3 with a cutting table the same height as the MFT is the best combination for large and small, long and short cutting and other operations.

 

[Umbro]

 

Is the rail accy kit worthwhile or use an aftermarket angle guide?

Fortunately I managed to buy one cheap on eBay. I say fortunately not for the fact I got the accessory kit but the fact I didn't waste to much money.
Complete waste of time. The angle guide is useless, clamps are antiquated . It's going back on EBay shortly.

The FZ-HZ lever clamps would be a much better addition to the mft or rail. Unless you've got all day to stand screwing and unscrewing.
As for breaking down 8x4 sheets get yourself a sheet of 3" or 4" polyurethane insulation. If you get a ply backed sheet you can use it on trestles ply side down. If not lay it on the floor chuck your boards you want to break down on top and hey presto! Lightweight cutting table. no fuss, no buggering about making elaborate cutting benches.
If you cut the pur board down to 6'x3 it makes it easier to handle and store

Regarding the mft angle fence.  If I bought the mft again I wouldn't bother with it.
I've been using qwas dogs, much quicker. You can trust they're 90degs to the rail. You open up more cutting capacity on the mft. All round for me they're much quicker.

I'm a builder so simplifying and speeding things up whilst maintaining accuracy is important.
For a hobbyist it may be a bit more leisurely, but don't waste your money on the acc kit, you're gonna need to save your cash for all the other things you didn't even know you needed until you got sucked into "The System".

 

[NEW2FES]

So I  am better off using digital protractor gauge and some dawgs.

How about adding Osbourne miter on a slot in the bench. I have one sitting around for years.

 

[Umbro]

Well the thing is in reality how many non stock angles will you be doing on the mft?

I'm not pushing the dogs but you can do your main 90, 45, 30and 60degs and a few more besides simply by dropping them in the holes. The angles are bang on accurate and repeatable no matter if you move the dogs then put them back.
This is because the holes are cut on a CNC table.
Seems silly to pay so much for a table that has been engineered to such tolerances and not take advantage of that fact.
It's all right the fence and it has it 's uses but I doubt you'll be altering it much off the 90.
If it is some odd angle, mark it on the piece you're going to cut, line it up under the rail then clamp a timber fence to table. If it needs repeating some time draw a reference line on along the fence onto the table.

 

[ceddy]

The FZ-HZ lever clamps would be a much better addition to the mft or rail. Unless you've got all day to stand screwing and unscrewing.

Though I kind of agree that they are better clamps, I like the screw style clamps since you can get the exact "force" you want. Seems like with the quick clamps it always too tight or too loose, I've found my self marring wood from time to time. But yes, don't get the rail kit.