TS55 Splinter Guard not flush with cut edge?

[lasttoleave]

Hello,

I've been cutting up some full sheets of MDF/Ply recently and I've noticed an issue that I need to rectify as it will affect the future accuracy of my cuts using the TS55.

Using my 1400 rail, I've noticed that splinter guard is not perfectly flush with the cut edge in places, meaning that if I leave the rail clamped to the material after a cut, there's a small lip between the edge of the splinter guard and the edge just been cut. It seems to be dead flush at the beginning of the cut but the inaccuracy starts about 1/3 of the way and continues  up the rail. It's definitely less than 1mm, but it's a lip you can easily get a fingernail on. I cannot see a reason why the splinter guard would be flush at the start of the cut but ever so slightly off at the end?

Thing's I've checked;
-There's no movement in the rail itself (clamped using festool clamps in the t-track)
-The saw has been well adjusted to the guide rail profile, if anything it's on the snug side so no excessive side to side movement.
- The cut edge is near perfect, there's nothing to suggest the saw is cutting badly or any unwanted blade movement.

I'm going to need to calibrate a set of Precision Parallel Guides from the splinter guard edge soon so getting the splinter guard "zero clearance" is essential.

I have a spare splinter guard but I want to see if anyone has some advice before I cut a fresh guard and potentially waste money if it performs exactly the same.

Thanks

 

[KescoNY]

Before anything else, i would try reusing the current splinter guard ( by removing it and moving it over 1-2 mm). I had a similar issue once because some one left the saw too loose on the track.  Hope this helps

 

[danbox]

Maybe the saw wasn't snug on the rail the first time that it was used.

I know guys that have bought the saw for the first time just taken it out the box and tried it, any play and it will remove more of the splinter guard than you want.

I'd just check that there is no play in the rail and stick a new guard on there.

The only other thing that would give wavy results is if the blade/spindle was bent on the saw, but this would fluctuate depending on the rpm, pressure ect and wouldn't give the same result each time.
Dan

 

[TOOLTOWN]

It is also possible that blade deflection while cutting thicker/harder wood or using the wrong blade for a task at some point in the past caused the discrepancy. 

As other have said you can try to re-use the existing splinter guard, or you can just attach a new one.

Most likely your saw is fine and its just time for a new splinter guard.

Ken

 

[lasttoleave]

Those are all fair points, I am pretty sure that the saw has always been adjusted correctly when used, but I can see the merit in trying this first.

I will move the splinterguard over and re-cut it whilst clamped to the edge of a full sheet, that was it is clamped as it would be during a typical cut and any anomolies should be evident from that. I will then reposition the rail a few times and trim the edge, checking each time if the splinter guard is flush along the length of the board.

I'll report back if I run into issues after the tests!

Thanks guys.

 

[Jbmccombe]

For me the splinter guard is a regular consumable.  I use my saw on several different rails and from time to time they just get messed up. My guess is that it is me doing the messing up, from not changing a dull blade, my saw kicking back on a plunge etc.  I can usually move my guard over a couple of times (just peel it off and stick it back again) this works 90%of the time and I can usually get a couple of moves on it.  I buy the new guard in the 5m roll as it is a lot cheaper than buying a 1400mm guide and just cut off what I need.  Make sure you do clean the rail well before sricking on a new guard as sawdust etc will stop it from sticking.

 

[joiner1970]

It's pretty normal Ive noticed the same thing on my rails. Over time sections of the strip end up away from the cut line. It can be caused by various reasons and is nothing to be worried about.

If you replace your strips get a roll of the makita strip as its only about £6 for 3 metres. It sticks better than the Festool stuff too