TS55 - Squaring the blade to 90 degrees

[Out of Square]

New saw question,
First I have to say that I am new here and I have been wanting a track saw for some time now.
Finally after much research on the subject (and Christmas fast approaching) I was able to put the money together and get a new TS55 with 2-1400mm rail, connectors and a couple of clamps for Christmas.
After looking on the net I was quickly forwarded to this forum in the referrence page.
Now for my quesiton: squaring the blade relative to the base,
(I came across a few reviews/ concerns with the blade not being at 90 degrees out of the box)
I checked on you-tube and only found a couple of referrences where you need to remove the blade cover then check it.
I removed the blade cover and checked it on a known flat surface ( table saw top) and found it to be at 89.5 degrees - Using a Wixey digital gauge.
I did adjust it to 90 degrees while on the flat surface.
My question is should the saw be checked while on the track or on a flat surface? ( both???)
I am thinking there may be some tilt in the track that festool may/ or is accounting for in the set up at the factory.
Also I have not trimmed the splinter guard yet because I want to make sure I take into account all the information on getting the blade square first. [eek]

Thanks in advance.

 

[Michael Kellough]

There are a couple of potential variables so the only measurement that counts is the freshly cut board.

After you trim the splinter guard make a cut on the thickest stock the saw the saw can handle and then check the angle of the cut. If it’s not what you want use a digital inclinometer to find out how far it’s off and then make the correction adjustment on the saw. In that case clamp the saw base to something sturdy and use the (still active) inclinometer to correct the bevel.

The big fat increments in the plastic parts of the trunion are just a rough guide. Don’t worry about them.

 

[Crazyraceguy]

The goal is the accuracy of the parts being cut. The actual measurement on the saw itself doesn't really matter. Make a cut across a fairly thick piece that is at least 8"-10" wide. Something good and flat, like 2 layers of 3/4" ply or MDF.  Staple or screw them together and cut across it, avoiding the screws/staples of course. The flip one half over and push the cut edges together. If everything is square, they will fit together fine. If there is a V shaped gap between them, the saw needs to be adjusted to eliminate it. The gap could be either way of course, top or bottom.

 

[mkasdin]

I like the two suggestions above. I think the splinter guard is very thin so if the saw is within a half a degree I don’t see that being an issue. That might however account for the parallax that I see when aligning a .3mm pencil line and it looking slightly off when I shift my eyes?

I’m having the same issue now with an off angle edge now that I am building some shop cabinets out of 18mm Baltic Birch and need perfect accuracy. I own a set of 4 Groz stainless steel engineers square. I would check the accuracy of the cut first using the track after you’ve made your initial, seat of the pants (wixie digital) adjustment. Then make an adjustment; tweak, cut and check. I hold the wood up to a bright light and check for light between the edge and the square...