TS55 Technique

[blanning]

Suppose you wanted to rip a 6 foot board with a TS55, for example, cutting an 8" wide board down to 6".  How would you ensure that the track was parallel to the edge of the board? 

It seems like there needs to be something like the parallel guide set, but with those bars being parallel to the rail instead of perpendicular.

 

[ccarrolladams]

Suppose you wanted to rip a 6 foot board with a TS55, for example, cutting an 8" wide board down to 6".  How would you ensure that the track was parallel to the edge of the board? 

It seems like there needs to be something like the parallel guide set, but with those bars being parallel to the rail instead of perpendicular.

Honestly, if I needed to rip a 1"x8" to 6" wide I would make sure one edge of the wide piece was joined, then I would set the rip fence on my sliding table saw to 6"+ allowance for passes on my joiner. I would place the already joined edge against the rip fence and have at it.

However, during those years when I did not have space for any table saw, what I did was use a 1"x3" piece to support the guide rail. I would measure from the better joined edge of the 1"x8" piece. The scrap would be in the off-cut position. In those days I kept 2 55" rails coupled, with a free 55" rail for cross-grain cuts. The splinter guard would be set on the marks and clamped to a sacrificial surface, with the 1'x3" supporting the rail if needed.

The exact measurement of the cut would depend on the quality needed in the new edge. Assuming the glue-ready quality of the TS55 was appropriate, then I would set the cut at exactly 6" Of course when I had no room for a table saw, I also had no room for a joiner. I own a Festool HL 850 E planer. With practice I could join edges with it fairly well. But doing so took far longer than using a modern joiner.

 

[Brice Burrell]

The parallel guides work for ripping or crosscutting.  If you don't have the parallel guides, you measure and align the rail carefully, that's it.

 

[Mavrik]

The parallel guides work for ripping or crosscutting.  If you don't have the parallel guides, you measure and align the rail carefully, that's it.

And remember to clamp the rail down; so it doesn't slip. (if you're not using it on the MFT)

 

[Brice Burrell]

The parallel guides work for ripping or crosscutting.  If you don't have the parallel guides, you measure and align the rail carefully, that's it.

And remember to clamp the rail down; so it doesn't slip. (if you're not using it on the MFT)

I think the rails grip exceptional well so I almost never bother with the clamps.  In fact, I clamped the guide rail down for the first time in several years recently. 

 

[tbellemare]

I would do basically what Carroll is saying he used to do. I'd first take just enough off of the best long edge to have a clean, planar edge using the guide rail and saw. Like Brice, I wouldn't bother with clamps - I don't when horizontal.

I'd mark both ends at 6" and put the rail down again to the marks. If it wasn't critical, I'd just cut. If it was critical, I'd use a combination square under the rail from the left to ensure that both edges are truly parallel and eliminate measurement errors.

If the rail isn't properly supported, I would support it like Carroll says and I tend to support along the entire length of the cut. The rail can deflect and effect the cut quality if not properly supported.

Tom

 

[James Watriss]

You don't own a combination square?

Assuming a straight edge, it might take a minute or two of being fussy, but using the clamps to keep the rail secure, you can double-check the rail alignment with a combination square just fine.

Assuming a wonky edge, use the saw to joint the wonky edge. Then reference off of that.

 

[fdengel]

You just need marks on both ends to match your particular interpretation of straight, then clamp the rail down to match the marks.  The clamps keep the rail in place and the rail keeps the saw line straight.