TS55R and bevels

[IADE]

I had a go cutting some bevels today with the TS55 which did not go as expected. I wanted to make a mitred box construction to form the sides of a very simple pull-along wagon for my son. I set the saw to the 45 degree mark which to my eyes looked exactly aligned to the 45 degree mark and the corresponding arrow. When I later assembled, all my corners had gaps outwards towards the external corners. Please see images attached. I have no way of actually measuring and determining the accuracy of the saw and haven't noticed anything untoward at the zero position; having said that I haven't cut through anything thicker than 22mm yet so hard for me to gauge 90 degree squareness over such a small reference face.

I am prepared to accept that this could be something I am doing wrong –– I am a novice and new to the saw. But if not, is this typical of the accuracy one can expect for cutting bevels with a tracksaw? I fully understand that the right tool for the job would be a sliding compound mitre saw.

Any advice on how to improve this for future projects and are there any other options I could consider that would give me more precision? Could this also be performed by first cutting the lengths square and then using a 45 degree chamfer bit to router the bevel in order to achieve accurately mating corners? It's not a problem for now but when I start doing more furniture-based projects in more expensive materials I would want better results.

On a separate but related note, I've also attached an image of some splintering I was experiencing when cutting. The offcut side was clean but the 'rail-side' was left with splinters. I'm using the 48t blade, the green splinter guard attachment, and have tried cutting at different speed settings but was getting the same result. Is this down to the fibrous nature of the timber or is there something I should be doing to achieve cleaner cuts?

Thanks for any help

 

[tjbnwi]

Which TS 55-the EQ or R?

Did you set the saw to the 45º stop?

Tom

 

[ear3]

When you set the bevel make sure you lock the back know first, then the front. It's possible that the problem is that the front and back of the saw are set at a slightly different angle. If that's the case, it could also explain the splintering problem, since this skew can chew up the splinterguard. It's also quite possible that the angle gauge is slightly off. Try setting the saw past 45 and see if the fit 8s better. Double check your technique as well, and make sure you're not tipping the saw (or over compensating to the left) when you execute a bevel cut.

 

[wrightwoodwork]

Are the pieces on the opposite from each other exactly the same length along the outside edge as each other. If so it looks like the saw is stopping just short of the 45 either because not adjusted correctly or even maybe a bit of saw dust etc  basically the blade needs to take more off on the short point side so needs to tilt just a touch more

 

[Svar]

You are doing nothing wrong. Just set it to 45.5 deg or so and trim it again. My saw happen to cut accurate 45 angle, but I don't expect much from those plastic trunions. By the way, the depth scale is also very approximate particularly in the mid range.

 

[RKA]

Put the square across the top of that cross cut and check to see if it's straight.  By my eye, it looks like the cut was not straight, which suggests you need to fine the technique a bit.  Don't change pressure or position on the saw handle as you guide it down the rail.  And make sure there is no slop on the rail.

 

[IADE]

Put the square across the top of that cross cut and check to see if it's straight.  By my eye, it looks like the cut was not straight, which suggests you need to fine the technique a bit.  Don't change pressure or position on the saw handle as you guide it down the rail.  And make sure there is no slop on the rail.

You have a very good eye! I just did as you suggest and found 2 cuts on the long lengths that were not square (by quite a bit) which has thrown everything out so no fault on the 45 degree setting it seems. I'm not sure how I managed that as everything was firmly up against part dogs and the workpiece clamped. There shouldn't have been any slop on the rail as I used the knobs to secure the parf dogs so that there was zero deflection. It must be my technique; does it matter which side of the guide rail/saw one stands –– does this create a bias when guiding the saw?

I also flipped the pieces over and aligned on a flat surface and the 45s butt up nicely so again, I think this probably confirms that the settings are fine and it's my setup. Should have occurred to me to check that yesterday.

I sincerely apologise dear TS55R.

Thanks,
Ian