TS75 Accuracy & Repeatability

[taharvey]

The TS75 saw appears to have a lot of flex in the blade or bearing, so that it's accuracy is suspect.

For instance if you run the saw (thumbwheels tightened!) down a clamped rail in a piece of wood, stop, lift the blade and plunge the blade in the same place you just cut, it will cut in a different place even though the rail hasn't moved. Some people in the shop have felt they can get as much as 1/8" differences running the saw on the same piece of wood with a rail clamped.

In deep material the blade has enough flex that it will deflect and cut the aluminum on the rail. Yet with the saw stopped, the blade seems square and rigid.  

We've had the TS75 for 6-8 months, and the problems have been consistent. One guy in the shop feels that the design is just flawed. Does any of this sound right to people who own the TS75?

Thanks,

Troy

 

[tbellemare]

When I use these plunge cut saws, I get the blade up to speed before I enter the work piece and take it out of the work piece before I let it slow down.

Is that what you are doing?

Tom

 

[Bob Marino]

Troy,

What Tom said and another thought - are you sure the saw is attached snugly enough to the rail?

bob

Bob

 

[harry_]

I have owned a TS75 for close to 4 years now and have never had the issue you are describing. Yes, if I 're-plunge' I may get a barely detectable difference. In my case I have always attributed that to me, not the saw. I am talking about a difference that _maybe_ a fingernail could catch but never enough to cause me concern for a glue-up. Never anything close to 1/8 inch, ever.

Flexing enough to cut the rail....? send it to Festool, it is under warranty and something is definitely wrong. I had never even demo'd the saw prior to purchase. I bought it, brought it home, read the factory manual and used the saw. and have never had a problem. IMHO no prior experience is required to operate this tool. With that said if it is giving you issues "out of the box", and you have consulted the manual to verify that all is in order. Then I would call the saw defective & send it to Festool. This is truly a no-brainer tool to use, especially for a professional.

 

[taharvey]

yes, snug to rail. This has happen dozens of times.

 

[Michael Kellough]

Seems like the blade is toed in too much and deep cuts exacerbate the problem, driving the front of the blade toward the guide rail. If you stop the saw at that point and re-plung the kerf will farther out than the last position. If this is the case you're also probably getting burning on the right side of the blade but the tell-tale marks are being cut away as the rear of the blade comes along.

One way to tell is to make a shallow cut (not all the way through the wood). Back the saw up and plunge into the existing kerf without running the motor. If the rear outside teeth are touching the right side of the kerf but the front outside teeth are not (by more than the thickness of a piece of ordinary paper) then there is too much toe. Adjusting the blade so it is more parallel to the guide rail will probably eliminate the problem.

It won't solve it if the problem is that the right side teeth are significantly more dull than the left side teeth, but you guys should have noticed if that was the problem. You may have missed the toe-in issue since few other saws allow toe adjustment.

 

[Administrator_JSVN]

Troy,

I sent you a PM, but in case you didn't see it, you should contact our service department.  They are in the best position to troubleshoot and offer corrective action to get your saw in the proper working condition.  The issues you describe are not typical.  The number for the service department is on your tool and also below in my signature.

Shane

 

[mouppe]

In hundreds of cuts I have never experienced what you are describing. Recently, I was using my TS55 and the fuse box kept tripping. It was a very hot day, the AC was running, the air purifier, the CT22 and probably a lot of other stuff in the building. I was also cutting some pretty thick cherry wood. The TS55 would cut out every six inches or so- very irritating. Even so, when I re-plunged the blade to continue the cut after resetting the fuse, the blade did not snag on the edge at all.

I can only assume that your saw needs to be calibrated a little better to remove what seems to be toe-in.

Good luck
Richard.

 

[jmbfestool]

Thought I would just be another person on this topic to say I also have never had this problem and I have had my TS55 for 3 or so years and I have cut timber thicker than the saw can cut (85mm) So something is wrong with your TS75.

JMB

 

[image132]

I'll be another person to support using a TS55 and never having that issue. I have plunged, lifted and replunged and like harry said the difference is minimal. It's one of my favourite tools because it is so reliable, simple and so accurate (wow that pretty much describes all their tools) the last one being a huge selling point for them.

The TS series being a flagship tool for Festool so problems are rare and I second the idea of you calling your service department to either get it fixed or get them to give you a new one. It should be free since it is still under warranty.

Chris

 

[taharvey]

Well I've been wondering if the TS55 works fine, but that the blade size was pushed too far with the 75. But thanks on the toe in, I will check it. If no luck, I'll send for repair. Sadly the rail is a bit hashed.

 

[windmill man]

This does not seem right, had my 75 for a good few years and use it on solid wood and man made boards , right up to is max cut and sometimes beyond. I have never experienced these problems and always have good accurate and quality cuts. Are you using the right blade for the job, is the blade in good order and sharp? Are you using to great a feed rate? Are the fixings that attach the body to the saw base tight? The only time i have ever had damage done to the rail by cutting it with the blade was when i had the base of my 55 replaced (wore it out) by Festool and they forgot to set the saw and just dispatched it. They did send me a new rail.  If you have had this problem since new send it back, you should get the same quality cut from the 75 as the 55.

Regards John

 

[Holzhacker]

Sorry to hear about the issues and especially the rail. I've had my 75 for a couple years and never had that problem. My TS would have hit the wall very quickly with those types of problems. Send it in, I'm sure Festool will handle it. The different blades don't seem to deflect any differently either on my saw.
Good luck

 

[WarnerConstCo.]

I mean, there is a sales and service phone number on the tool. [doh]

I would think that anyone who paid $600+ for a saw would know when something is not right. [scratch chin]

My TS-55 makes this hill billy carpenter look good no matter what I do with it. [cool]

 

[nickao]

The entire concept of a track saw is repeatability and perfectly straight cuts. If you do not get that obviously the saw is damaged in some way.

I am not sure I can produce your results if I tried to on purpose. My TS 75 is dead on and cuts in the same place every time.