TS75 riving knife raplacement - stuck/stripped bolt

Greentechnic

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Feb 28, 2016
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I have tried everything to remove the bolt in order to replace the riving knife in order to insert the cms riving knife when inserting the saw into the cms module. Heated the bolt, stripped the bolt, inserted a stripped bolt remover which also broke off inside the bolt, 2nd last option is engeneering works before i order a replacement part, truly disgusted with festool at the moment. Just thought i warn anyone else to be careful when they have to do the same, found another thread where a guy battled but seems his was not bonded to the steel as mine
 

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Top effort.
(My Tourettes would be in full on mode.)

If the part is off the saw, there is process called EDM (electric discharge machining) where they plunge through with an arcing rod, with it bathed in an insulted bath.
Then you "dental pick" out the male thread, from the female side thread.
This EDM always works.

When you are done some anti-seize would be a good idea.
 
Just cut a slot in the screw with a dremel, making it a slotted screw. And spray the bolt with WD40. Make sure not to get any WD40 on the rest of your saw.
 
If you can get access to a MIG welder place a larger nut over the bolt head and weld it in place thru the hole. The heat from the welding frees the bolt and the nut enables you to unscrew it. This technique will even remove rust solid or snaped off bolts.
 
Oooohh.  That's a good one.  Gonna keep that on file.

Alex said:
Just cut a slot in the screw with a dremel, making it a slotted screw. And spray the bolt with WD40. Make sure not to get any WD40 on the rest of your saw.
 
I repair and replace a LOT of commercial door entrances.  My 12V Milwaukee impact driver lets me remove 96% of all these 12-24 and 1/4-20 screws, no matter how old or rusted.  I even use it to remove the #1 phillips screws that hold the tail pieces on commercial mortise cylinders.  In the bad old days I ended up with many fasteners that looked like yours.  The other advantage is that when installing screws I seldom strip or break off heads as the 12V does not have the torque that my 18v possesses.  I've used it to remove stuck pad fastening screws in my sanders also.  I don't think I would use an automotive impact driver unless it was one that the torque could be dialed way down.  In the case of your screw, I would probably file or grind a small indent in the outside edge of the head and try tapping it with a straight driver and hammer.  This is usually my course of attack with stripped and broken off heads.
 
Tnx Guys, think using the mig welder with a nut will be next step, EDM if that fails, advisable that my festool agent avoid me for a week or two
 
There a screw extractor kit i got from the BB store in the states. Im sure you can get one over here. You simply drill a small hole in the head of the bolt / screw, insert the extractor and unscrew it.

It looks like you way over torqued that screw to begin with. It just has to be snug not torqued down.
 
I got worried when I saw this post and promptly checked my own TS 75, the riving knife bolt/screw was tight, but got it off no problem.. Seems strange the head head was stripped like that..
 
Hi, I had exactly the same problem and to solve it, I had to remove the cover and when I cleaned up , I loose the draw spring of the riving knife And I need help because I dont know how to assembly it correctly. I looking for information but nothing...
 
Woodnic said:
Hi, I had exactly the same problem and to solve it, I had to remove the cover and when I cleaned up , I loose the draw spring of the riving knife And I need help because I dont know how to assembly it correctly. I looking for information but nothing...

Under the Additional Websites in the top bar on this page click Spare Parts Catalog. There are exploded diagrams for each tool. That might help.

Seth
 
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