TSC55 purchase questions

[sploo]

I'm after a TSC55 to replace my ageing circular saw, and fancy the cordless option as there are occasions where the portability will be really useful.

The first job it'll need to do is to rip and crosscut some 40mm solid oak kitchen worktops. I was also hoping it'd be feasible to take careful plunge cuts (several shallow passes) in order to do most of the cutting for rectangular sink and hob cutouts (before finishing the cuts by hand or jigsaw). I assume that's a valid use of this tool?

I'm not working commercially, so I assume the option with a single SCA 8 charger would be a good compromise in terms of getting one battery charged quickly in order to do an occasional cut (vs two TCL 6 or SCA 8 chargers)?

I was looking at item 201401, which has a 1400mm rail and a 48 tooth blade. I'd likely get an 800mm rail for the worktop cross cuts, and another 1400mm rail to allow me to cut 8x4' sheets. I understand I need to buy the connecting rods separately to the guide rails?

I assume I should also get a 12 tooth panther blade for the worktop rip cuts?

I have a CTL vac, but it doesn't have the latest plastic connector (just the rubber end). Will I need a separate accessory?

Anything else I should be buying with the saw? Clamps, other accessories?

In terms of a (UK) supplier, toolfest appears to have the best price I've been able to find. Are they recommended?

 

[DB10]

I'm after a TSC55 to replace my ageing circular saw, and fancy the cordless option as there are occasions where the portability will be really useful.

The first job it'll need to do is to rip and crosscut some 40mm solid oak kitchen worktops. I was also hoping it'd be feasible to take careful plunge cuts (several shallow passes) in order to do most of the cutting for rectangular sink and hob cutouts (before finishing the cuts by hand or jigsaw). I assume that's a valid use of this tool?

I'm not working commercially, so I assume the option with a single SCA 8 charger would be a good compromise in terms of getting one battery charged quickly in order to do an occasional cut (vs two TCL 6 or SCA 8 chargers)?

I was looking at item 201401, which has a 1400mm rail and a 48 tooth blade. I'd likely get an 800mm rail for the worktop cross cuts, and another 1400mm rail to allow me to cut 8x4' sheets. I understand I need to buy the connecting rods separately to the guide rails?

I assume I should also get a 12 tooth panther blade for the worktop rip cuts?

I have a CTL vac, but it doesn't have the latest plastic connector (just the rubber end). Will I need a separate accessory?

Anything else I should be buying with the saw? Clamps, other accessories?

In terms of a (UK) supplier, toolfest appears to have the best price I've been able to find. Are they recommended?

My thoughts, if your not comercial then the standard charger should be fine, not sure what the price dif between standard and SC8 is in the UK.
I wouldn't bother with an 800 rail just use the 1400 for cross cuts and put the money saved from the 800 towards a 2.7 or 3m rail as a future purchase as joining rails can get old very quickly.
For 40mm Oak worktops I would use the 28tooth blade, 496302.
I don't connect the TSC to the CTL, I just use the dust bag that's supplied with the TSC it does a good job and being hose and cordless makes the TSC quick and precise to use.
If you are plung cutting then it might pay to invest in a kick back stop, 491582.
I don't often clamp the rail but if I do then the rapid clamp set, 489790 is useful.

 

[sploo]

My thoughts, if your not comercial then the standard charger should be fine, not sure what the price dif between standard and SC8 is in the UK.
I wouldn't bother with an 800 rail just use the 1400 for cross cuts and put the money saved from the 800 towards a 2.7 or 3m rail as a future purchase as joining rails can get old very quickly.
For 40mm Oak worktops I would use the 28tooth blade, 496302.
I don't connect the TSC to the CTL, I just use the dust bag that's supplied with the TSC it does a good job and being hose and cordless makes the TSC quick and precise to use.
If you are plung cutting then it might pay to invest in a kick back stop, 491582.
I don't often clamp the rail but if I do then the rapid clamp set, 489790 is useful.

Given the weight of the worktops I may need to be doing the sink and hob cuts in-situ, so I was thinking that the 800mm rail would be easier to handle across a 600mm worktop. Having a second 1400mm rail (vs one longer rail) means I can get everything in the car, break down an 8x4' sheet, and get everything back in the car. I guess a longer rail would be a nice luxury, but that may have to come later.

Thanks for the heads-up on the kickback stop; a quick google tells me that sink and hob cutouts are a prime reason for needing it.

The rapid clamp looks very useful. Not too pricey either so I may invest in that.

If the 28 tooth blade will do a decent job for both rip and cross cuts then it'll save changing the blade - though some of the worktop cuts will be for an island so I need the cut quality to be decent.

 

[Ross 71]

Can't comment on the  battery thing. I can say that Toolfest/Bunny's Bolts seem to be A1.Why pay more?
The Panther blade is essential for rip cutting- I find it is worth changing blades for every rip cut it is so much quicker and seems much less stress on the machine.

Kick back stop is also worth having, definitely. It's like a sash cramp: you rarely need one, but when you do need it, nothing else will do.

I regret wasting time and money fannying about joining 1400 rails. It is as near as easy to make 4 marks for a long cut and move the rail. The rail joiners don't guarantee a 8' straight cut and you can never be quite certain. wastes time, timber and stress. I recently bought a 2700 mm rail from Bunny's. Now a very happy boy. Don't buy the second 1400 and the joiners-keep your shillings for a 2700 or 3meter rail. The 2700 is £135+vat. The 800 rail can be useful, but mostly when it is sitting attached to the MFT!

For myself, I like the lever clamps number 489570 but I've not tried the pistol type.

Whatever you do choose, report back how you get on.

Ross

 

[ear3]

Not sure about their availability overseas, but the Dewalt track clamps are actually my preferred clamping option for the rail:http://www.dewalt.com/products/acce...saw-accessories/tracksaw-track-clamps/dws5026

The Panther rip blade is really useful, though I've only found it necessary when working with very thick material.

 

[rst]

The suction cup adaptors for the rails work great on sink and stove cutouts.  Worked so good the first time I used them that I bought another.  I use mine more to cut plastic sheets more than anything.  They also work well as handles on smooth sided surface or carrying sheets.

 

[Holmz]

Cordless sounds nice, but do you need it? And batteries are a consumable.
They are great if need them, and it is easy to want them.

Why not do the cutout in one pass?
Some anti kickback would be worthwhile with the money saved from a corded saw.

 

[sploo]

I regret wasting time and money fannying about joining 1400 rails. It is as near as easy to make 4 marks for a long cut and move the rail. The rail joiners don't guarantee a 8' straight cut and you can never be quite certain. wastes time, timber and stress. I recently bought a 2700 mm rail from Bunny's. Now a very happy boy. Don't buy the second 1400 and the joiners-keep your shillings for a 2700 or 3meter rail. The 2700 is £135+vat. The 800 rail can be useful, but mostly when it is sitting attached to the MFT!

I do keep seeing criticism of the rail joiners. Are they really that bad?

I kinda like the idea of the versaility of having both long and short rails. The problem is that I'd struggle to store a 2.7m rail, and it wouldn't really work in the car (and one of my uses for the saw would be to break down 8x4' sheets for transporting in the car, so I'd also need to be taking the rails with me).

Cordless sounds nice, but do you need it? And batteries are a consumable.
They are great if need them, and it is easy to want them.

Why not do the cutout in one pass?
Some anti kickback would be worthwhile with the money saved from a corded saw.

I suspect I'll be doing more cuts at home than on the road, but obviously you can't make use of the corded saw on the move. It's not going to pay for itself in terms of materials price difference, but the last time I looked the cost of a single 8x4' vs four 4x2' sheets (in an average UK DIY store) meant that being able to break the larger sheet down in the store car park really made sense.

What they really need of course is a mains adaptor.

Cutout in one pass: 40mm thick solid oak is pretty deep. I'd probably do it for cutting a strip off a worktop, but I'd be nervous of trying a single cut that deep for a hob or sink cutout. I'd probably go for three 15mm deep passes; nice and careful - keep it under control.

 

[Holmz]

...
I do keep seeing criticism of the rail joiners. Are they really that bad?
...

With respect to the rails... "HC SVNT DRACONES".
You may be wise to look at something like the GTK55 which has a different rail system. It may not be what you want, but at least you would be going in with eyes open.

I take it that the UK shops will not break the sheets down close for a small fee?

Can you do sink cutouts with a jig saw?

You will need a few saw horses if you are working in the car park.

 

[sploo]

...
I do keep seeing criticism of the rail joiners. Are they really that bad?
...

With respect to the rails... "HC SVNT DRACONES".
You may be wise to look at something like the GTK55 which has a different rail system. It may not be what you want, but at least you would be going in with eyes open.

I take it that the UK shops will not break the sheets down close for a small fee?

Can you do sink cutouts with a jig saw?

You will need a few saw horses if you are working in the car park.

"HC SVNT DRACONES" - you've lost me on that one. Google doesn't seem to help either.

GTK55. No cordless option... I think?

Some DIY shops will do cutting, but in my experience they're the ones who charge much more for a sheet in the first place, so the price becomes prohibitive.

Jig saw - you can...not. Well, I have a decent Bosch (blue) jigsaw, but even with really slow cuts and fresh blades I find the blade tends to bend and the cut wanders (that is, the cut looks good from the top surface, but it's actually all over the place on the bottom).

 

[RustE]

..
"HC SVNT DRACONES" - you've lost me on that one. Google doesn't seem to help either.
...

Messed with me too until I realized "v" is still used in place of "u" for some languages.

"hic sunt dracones" is roughly "here be dragons".

 

[Holmz]

The p1cc with the double-width Mafell blades are stiff, but if you already have a jig saw then best to stick with your plan of the track saw.

I guess your plan of the cordless seems like the best option... as the other options are either more $ cordless, or are corded, or require cutting fees.
If you did have a cordless jig saw then they can also break down sheets in a rougher manner, and then they fit in the car/ute/lorry.

I am not good on Latin, so I am not sure if the V and U are standard. Plus all the Priests are working today so I have no one to ask.
Basically I started with selecting the rails, then you narrow down to corded or cordless, then to the particular saw.
(You should end up having 2 viable choices for brands in cordless with one having better rails but more $, and the other less $ and better warranty and resale)
And one probably cannot go wrong either way.

 

[DB10]

  My  [2cents]  If your breaking down sheet goods in the store carpark you would be better off using something like a Makita or Dewalt 18v cordless circular saw along with some off cuts of 4 be 2 for support, these would be your rough cuts so you can get the goods home. Once your in the comfort of your own home / workshop you can make your final cuts or finished cuts with the track saw. If you really want to use a track saw in the carpark then one 1400 rail ll do the job just slide it along at the end of your first cut.

 

[Yeon]

I went with the cordless version myself and have no regrets whatsoever. I have never had a problem with batteries dying on me during a regular 8-10 hour day using it pretty consistently.

I found the best aspect are for simple things like trimming down a door during a renovation project where the power may be turned off on a particular floor due to electric work being done. No need to move the door down to another floor or run some ungodly array of extension cords. The convenience of the cordless generally goes unnoticed in my opinion since you take it for granted. Comparing it to times using a corded version though I definitely appreciate the freedom it provides.

Just my 2 cents, good luck on your purchase

 

[sploo]

  My  [2cents]  If your breaking down sheet goods in the store carpark you would be better off using something like a Makita or Dewalt 18v cordless circular saw along with some off cuts of 4 be 2 for support, these would be your rough cuts so you can get the goods home. Once your in the comfort of your own home / workshop you can make your final cuts or finished cuts with the track saw. If you really want to use a track saw in the carpark then one 1400 rail ll do the job just slide it along at the end of your first cut.

That's a good point - if breaking down a sheet outside I certainly wouldn't be trying to get millimetre perfect cuts; that's what the table saw is for.

That said, I was hoping that I'd be able to get a high quality cut (with care) with the TSC 55. I'll likely end up doing some final trimming cuts on the oak worktop for an island.

I don't currently own any sort of cordless saw, but I have the DF700 and a CTL vac, and I'm happy with both so I'd lean towards the Festool track saw over another brand.

 

[Ross 71]

I do keep seeing criticism of the rail joiners. Are they really that bad?

I kinda like the idea of the versaility of having both long and short rails. The problem is that I'd struggle to store a 2.7m rail, and it wouldn't really work in the car (and one of my uses for the saw would be to break down 8x4' sheets for transporting in the car, so I'd also need to be taking the rails with me).

[size=12pt]The joiners just aren't good. Its alright if you have a long straightedge to make sure the rails are proper straight before every cut. This has disadvantages.

Why not just do the cross cut first, then the 'long' cuts?

 

[sploo]

Why not just do the cross cut first, then the 'long' cuts?

Because 8x2' will (just) go in the car, and sometimes it's a useful size 

Granted, four 4x2' sheets would obviously make life easier - both cutting and carrying.

 

[Holmz]

...
I do keep seeing criticism of the rail joiners. Are they really that bad?
...

Nothing beat experience, so I am not qualified as one to ask.

That fact that you have positive FT experiences makes it difficult to think about other options.
The rails are "A System" with respect to routers and jig saws, as well as with track saws... And none of the rails are exactly cheap.

Again "Nothing beat experience"... so if you have a shop close by then it may be worthwhile to put paws to saws and see if they work for you.  Ideally it would be a distributor that has a few types of rails and cordless saw brands (if one exists??).

If using the TS55, then I would probably get the long rail, or I would do 1/2 of the sheet and then slide the rail along like [member=42735]DB10[/member] suggests.

Nothing is ever easy...

 

[six-point socket II]

Hi,

The TSC 55 is a great choice, I'm using one myself.

In regards to your rail questions I'd agree that joining 1400 rails is not the best option when you can transport/use the bigger ones. But I would like to encourage you to get a 800 rail. It's really great to handle and a great choice whenever space is limited or when working on smaller stuff - you will love it. It's my most used rail.

Kind regards,
Oliver

 

[sploo]

Hi,

The TSC 55 is a great choice, I'm using one myself.

In regards to your rail questions I'd agree that joining 1400 rails is not the best option when you can transport/use the bigger ones. But I would like to encourage you to get a 800 rail. It's really great to handle and a great choice whenever space is limited or when working on smaller stuff - you will love it. It's my most used rail.

Kind regards,
Oliver

Ironically, I have an 800mm rail, a Panther blade, and the pistol style quick clamp. No saw yet as that's the bit that was out of stock  [sad]