Using Matchfit router bits with OF 1010 and track

[dawatson833]

I use the matchfit dovetail clamps from Microjig for jigs and other clamping related task.
Microjig provides a straight bit and dovetail router bit for making the clamp slots. 
I find the combination of these two bits create a much better fit for the clamp.

Recently used the OF 1010 router and festool track to create the slots. The Setup Gauge provided by
Microjig is great for setting the exact height of the bits.  However, the gauge doesn't take into account
how the track affects the depth of the bit.  Had to set the bit depth by eye and did not get the results
I wanted.

Anyone else use the matchfit clamps.
Any suggestions on how to adapt the gauge to provide better results when using the festool track.

 

[tsmi243]

I haven't tried out my Matchfit stuff yet, but for other situations it was pretty easy to make up a spacer block the same thickness as the track takes up.  I wanna say it was around 6mm? 

Anyway, you basically make a temporary sub base for your router.  Same thickness as the track.  Lay it on the base before setting depth of cut, then take it off and you're good to go.

 

[dawatson833]

Thanks tsmi243.  I will try that.  Thought about doing that yesterday, but wanted to wait to see what others had come up with.

 

[Imemiter]

I made a 1/4" acrylic base for my Makita that lets the router run beside the rail instead of half on and half off. Still need to make one for my 1010 yet. My process has been to plow an initial 1/4" groove with a dado blade, and then make the dovetail pass centering the router over the groove. 

 

[dawatson833]

The makita hack looks good.  May try that on the 1010.  I use the microfit straight bit to make the initial groove most of the time.
On occassion the table saw also.  May use the table saw more often since using the scale with the bit isn't useful.

 

[Imemiter]

Right. The base hack makes the depth gauge useful again.

 

[Crazyraceguy]

If you are going to do that though, wouldn't it make sense to turn the track around and run the router closer to it. This would reduce the leverage against the connecting rods and move the clamping point closer to the cut too.

 

[Imemiter]

There were issues with running off the back of the rail. I'll have to get them out and look again tomorrow. I know I looked into doing it that way with the Makita guide, but running off kerf side seemed better. My 1010 has been practically welded to the LR32, so I haven't used its rail guide yet.