using shortened Guide Rails for shorter cuts

[Klemm]

I have heard of some tradespeople using shorter (cut off?) guiderails when dealing with jobs involving short cuts.
what experience should be kept in mind when cutting down a track?
What works - and what doesn't?

Hans

 

[Michael Kellough]

I have heard of some tradespeople using shorter (cut off?) guiderails when dealing with jobs involving short cuts.
what experience should be kept in mind when cutting down a track?
What works - and what doesn't?

Hans

Unless you plan to re-join the the shortened rail with other rails just cut it. (The two parts of the same rail should go together well even if the cut was not square)

I get cleaner cuts after spritzing the Al with WD-40 and running the saw at a little slower speed but Al is easy to cut.

 

[peter halle]

First the user should decide on what the maximum length he wishes to cut.  Let's say in this example a 2 x 12.  they then need to determine the lead in length of the rail to make sure that the blade is exposed enough to start the cut without a plunge.  Obviously not a total requirement but can save some puckering later on.  Those of us who have scars on ours rails can explain that to others.  Then you need to make sure that length can be cut fully with the adjustment nibs fully in contact with the rail thru out the cut.  Based on these items the user can then determine what length they need.

To cut the aluminum any miters will do it.  Two years ago at the JLCLive event a member gave me some damaged guide rail that was too long to fit into my suitcase.  Took it to the Festool booth, asked nicely and the Kapex cut it in mere seconds.  No special blade, no speed adjustment; just done.

Peter

 

[Klemm]

Peter : what would be a good length to cut to for all-around use ?
Hans

PS: yes WD-40 works great to keep the aluminum from sticking to the blade even in an industrial size application but dri lube stick works "clean"

 

[Holmz]

Peter : what would be a good length to cut to for all-around use ?
Hans

PS: yes WD-40 works great to keep the aluminum from sticking to the blade even in an industrial size application but dri lube stick works "clean"

I don't know... You Tell us... What size do you mostly cut?

I cut a 160-cm rail to fit on the MFT and had a 450-mm left over. Hence I use a 450, when not using a mitre.

 

[Klemm]

actually Iam trying to get a reading on customers experience for development of a new accessory. For that reason we are interested in the view from "outside" our own shop and needs [smile]
Hans

 

[ear3]

Doesn't feztool make a super short rail?  I don't see it on the website, but I could swear I saw it once at a dealer.

 

[Holmz]

actually Iam trying to get a reading on customers experience for development of a new accessory. For that reason we are interested in the view from "outside" our own shop and needs [smile]
Hans

I understand... But just cut one down for a short and a medium and see which is more of the Goldilocks length. Obviously one will be too short and one will be too long, but that differs depending on whether one is more of a papa bear, mamabear or cub. And the work determines whether it is cub or mama. 550-650 mm is a good starting point IMO.

 

[nclemmons]

The shortest Festool rail I've seen is 800mm (32") which I have, but it's too long for some simple cuts.

I've debated cutting a short rail that would offer 8 to 12" width of cut plus the infeed / outfeed for the saw.  Just today I was cutting two 2x4's side by side and wished I had a short rail to go with my GRS16 I just received. 

 

[Michael Kellough]

Hans, what product is "dri lube stick"?

I guess the biggest thing you'd want to cut with a short rail would be a 2x12.

With 55 saw that will be near full depth with a Combination blade so double the gib spacing and add 11.5".

With a 75 saw you won't need full plunge depth so you don't need to double the full gib distance.

With construction grade lumber we don't have to be so picky about the cut quality so the rail could be shorter on the far end. Just make sure you can get full plunge depth (for the stock thickness) before entering the wood, especially if you're steadying the wood with one hand.

 

[Bohdan]

One type available downunder.
http://www.excision.com.au/blades/coolants/metalium-xdp-alube-aluminium-lube-stick-150gm

Generally made with sheep fat which is why the mouse deterent is added.

 

[tazprime38]

I cut a 1400mm track down a few years ago using my Evolution mitre saw. I decided on a 600mm and 800mm  sizes and they have worked out well for me. I use both individually and do join either to a 1400 mm track ie for trimming doors etc.

I connected my new grs 16 square to my 800mm track yesterday just to check it out. Have not made any cuts yet, but I reckon the square will be used a lot more with these smaller tracks.

 

[Kev]

I have a few 800's in FS and I think it's a good size.

The FSK rails in 420 and 670 are cool too. The FSK250 is a bit of a "why bother" size and Festool didn't even bother making a bag for it. Don't think mine will see a lot of use - but I'm happy to be surprised and wrong.

I'd probably only look to cut a rail if I damaged one ... Then the lengths would be dictated by the location of the damage [sad]

 

[bertv]

I had a 1400 mm Guide Rail with a really nasty gash (don’t ask how that happened…) and cut that into smaller parts. The sizes were determined by the location of the gash — turned out into one 600 mm GR and one 500 mm GR. I use the 600 quite often, the 500 not so much.

(To obfuscate their origins I even drilled holes in the ends as per Festools specification.)

 

[Michael Kellough]

Here's a product suggestion Hans (maybe something you have in mind with this question); it would be great to have an attachment to the GRS-16 that would hold the guide rail snug to a board.

Or maybe just a spring loaded (slippery) bumper that fits (tightens) in the channel under the rail.

You would lower the far end of the very short rail over the board and pull back against the spring enough so the GRS can fit over the front of the board. Then just bump the rail left or right to the mark (that's why the bumper needs to be slippery) and cut, hopefully without having to hold onto the board.

Something like that attached to this system would be pretty great.

 

[Klemm]

thanks for all the input!
what got this thread started was a comment from a user that the Square tilts a very short track when no saw is resting on it.  I know it had to be shorter than the 42 inch FS 1080 because it stays put without support. So what is everyone using for a homemade "short"track?

To create the option for an add-on "Short Track Support" we included a 10-32 tapped through hole in the latest production toolssee our prototype picture attached.
Now the question: is it really needed?

Hans

 

[rmwarren]

[member=59331]TSO Products[/member]  - Hans, my [2cents] would be having the hole doesn't hurt and may help. A user can supply/attach a tab if they choose to.

I've been toying with whacking a rail into smaller sections, but so far I haven't damaged one and I never got the gumption to cut up an undamaged one. Likely time will correct this problem.

RMW

RMW

thanks for all the input!
what got this thread started was a comment from a user that the Square tilts a very short track when no saw is resting on it.  I know it had to be shorter than the 42 inch FS 1080 because it stays put without support. So what is everyone using for a homemade "short"track?

To create the option for an add-on "Short Track Support" we included a 10-32 tapped through hole in the latest production toolssee our prototype picture attached.
Now the question: is it really needed?

Hans

 

[Klemm]

Hans, what product is "dri lube stick"?

I guess the biggest thing you'd want to cut with a short rail would be a 2x12.

With 55 saw that will be near full depth with a Combination blade so double the gib spacing and add 11.5".

With a 75 saw you won't need full plunge depth so you don't need to double the full gib distance.

With construction grade lumber we don't have to be so picky about the cut quality so the rail could be shorter on the far end. Just make sure you can get full plunge depth (for the stock thickness) before entering the wood, especially if you're steadying the wood with one hand.

Dri Lube stick source for aluminum cuttinghttp://www.mscdirect.com/product/details/57810087?rItem=57810087 about $ 20
I used a product like that for cutting on finished product where cleanliness was critical. A little goes a long way. works for tapping, drilling, bandsawing etc
Hans

 

[Klemm]

Here's a product suggestion Hans (maybe something you have in mind with this question); it would be great to have an attachment to the GRS-16 that would hold the guide rail snug to a board.

Or maybe just a spring loaded (slippery) bumper that fits (tightens) in the channel under the rail.

You would lower the far end of the very short rail over the board and pull back against the spring enough so the GRS can fit over the front of the board. Then just bump the rail left or right to the mark (that's why the bumper needs to be slippery) and cut, hopefully without having to hold onto the board.

Something like that attached to this system would be pretty great.

Michael - the HKC FSK combination really got my interest - and everyone else's at the JLC show this spring. Of course it's incompatible with the TS-55.
Your idea of finding a way to lock the short track onto a piece of lumber sounds cool. Can you describe the problem your idea would solve?
Hans

 

[Michael Kellough]

Dri Lube stick source for aluminum cuttinghttp://www.mscdirect.com/product/details/57810087?rItem=57810087 about $ 20
I used a product like that for cutting on finished product where cleanliness was critical. A little goes a long way. works for tapping, drilling, bandsawing etc
Hans

That's funny!  The listing at MSC is for quantities of 12 or greater.

Finally found the real thing at Amazon.