You can even interact with the models and make your fantasies a reality with their interactive toys.https://livesexcams.cafe/model/AthleticBlackTeen/https://livesex.cafe/model/_johnwayne_/https://sexcam.bar/model/tonygold123/
Using Vlies
- Thread starter Kirochito
- Start date
Cheese
Member
- Joined
- Jan 16, 2015
- Messages
- 12,528
I use Vlies to rub in various Festool oils, it does give a smooth hard finish. I'm not so sure it would be the solution for wipe-on poly though. I'd lay on multiple coats of wipe-on and after it was thoroughly dry I'd lightly HAND sand with 800 or 1200 grit paper...see how that turns out.
The issue always is building enough finish coat thickness so that when you sand, the coating that's left will not be too thin to protect the wood.
Have you considered spraying instead? You'll be able to put down a thicker coating with each pass.
And [welcome] to the FOG.
The issue always is building enough finish coat thickness so that when you sand, the coating that's left will not be too thin to protect the wood.
Have you considered spraying instead? You'll be able to put down a thicker coating with each pass.
And [welcome] to the FOG.
Michael Kellough
Member
- Joined
- Jan 23, 2007
- Messages
- 7,101
I use these (the 600 grit purple ones) non-woven pads to knock down nibs between coats of Minwax wipe-on poly. Nothing after the final coat.
Have you compared Minwax to Zinsser?
Have you compared Minwax to Zinsser?
I use wipe on for my oil based poly applications exclusively. I also use it for my shellac applications.
I use Scott Rags-in-a-Box, which are actually shop paper towels. I fold them until they are a convenient size and dip them in the wipe on material. They never seem to leave any lint and I unfold them, let them dry to dispose of them.
I make my own wipe on using Minwax Gloss and mineral spirits at a one to one ratio. I find that three coats is a minimum for a nice look. For horizontal surfaces (work surfaces) I will go as high as 7 coats.
I apply Sealcoat (wipe on, no dilution) for my first coat in all cases. It dries in 20 minutes and I can quickly put on my first coat of poly. I lightly sand with 400 grit between coats. I use a damp Scott “rag” to wipe off the dust from sanding the coating.
If the gloss is too shiny, I apply Butchers wax with 0000 steel wool. It not only dulls the finish, but it makes a tactile surface that feels luxurious. If that is not dull enough, then I use a coarser grade of steel wool with the wax.
I tried “wool oil”, a lubricant designed to be used with steel wool, but I prefer the Butchers’ wax.
Note: If you use the butchers wax as I describe, you will have difficulties applying additional coats afterwards. I’m not sure how to get rid of 100% of the wax before applying another coat or another finish.
Addendum: A google search just now, shows that there is now a water based wipe on poly. As I have found oil based poly much tougher than water based poly, I will stick with what I know: oil based poly + mineral spirits.
I use Scott Rags-in-a-Box, which are actually shop paper towels. I fold them until they are a convenient size and dip them in the wipe on material. They never seem to leave any lint and I unfold them, let them dry to dispose of them.
I make my own wipe on using Minwax Gloss and mineral spirits at a one to one ratio. I find that three coats is a minimum for a nice look. For horizontal surfaces (work surfaces) I will go as high as 7 coats.
I apply Sealcoat (wipe on, no dilution) for my first coat in all cases. It dries in 20 minutes and I can quickly put on my first coat of poly. I lightly sand with 400 grit between coats. I use a damp Scott “rag” to wipe off the dust from sanding the coating.
If the gloss is too shiny, I apply Butchers wax with 0000 steel wool. It not only dulls the finish, but it makes a tactile surface that feels luxurious. If that is not dull enough, then I use a coarser grade of steel wool with the wax.
I tried “wool oil”, a lubricant designed to be used with steel wool, but I prefer the Butchers’ wax.
Note: If you use the butchers wax as I describe, you will have difficulties applying additional coats afterwards. I’m not sure how to get rid of 100% of the wax before applying another coat or another finish.
Addendum: A google search just now, shows that there is now a water based wipe on poly. As I have found oil based poly much tougher than water based poly, I will stick with what I know: oil based poly + mineral spirits.
Packard said:
I don't know where you are at and I do not know the details, but I understand another EPA set of regulations came out on states in the Great Lake watershed. More oil based products were eliminated 1/1/24. I do not know if this includes poly. If a dealer has it, he can sell, just cannot order more. Sorry I do not know the details.
Birdhunter
Member
- Joined
- Jun 16, 2012
- Messages
- 4,144
My favorite finish is MinWax WipeOn Poly. I apply it with lint free rags I buy at Highland Woodworking. I stick with the satin finish. After the first coat, I will lightly hand sand with 320 grit wrapped around a cork block. Usually, 4 coats is good. The nice aspect of this finish is that it is easy to reapply after usage.
The worst finish I ever used was tung oil. The fussiest finish was making my own shellac from flakes.
The worst finish I ever used was tung oil. The fussiest finish was making my own shellac from flakes.
Similar threads
