Vac Sys mobile cart

DynaGlide

Member
Joined
May 16, 2017
Messages
1,697
I know there's a lot of threads being revived about a Vac Sys station and rather than add on to the others I'll just start my own. I've been thinking about making one ever since I got the unit back in September mainly because I wanted something I could move around with me as my needs during a project change. Having it fixed to one location in my space was problematic because I found if I had stuff on the adjacent bench then I'd have to move it to use the clamping module.

I came across a nifty Shaper Origin cart that [member=167]neilc[/member] designed over on the Origin forum and thought it'd make a good base for what I was after.

i-pL2px6m-L.jpg


I exchanged a few emails and texts with him and he was generous enough to share his SketchUp file with me. I have the base unit completed and going to put it to use for a bit before I decide how I want to attach a top to work with the Vac Sys module beneath. Neil and I have already bounced some ideas on that back and forth but I feel I need to use it for a bit before I settle on a design.

Both sections on the sides are line bored for Sys AZ drawers should I want to house some systainers in the future. The back is line bored for shelving as well. Here's some pictures:

i-cVSNpkb-X2.jpg


i-Hhbz8fV-X2.jpg


i-WNNpXRw-X2.jpg


i-q9mhdR7-X2.jpg


i-NR4dHGX-X2.jpg


i-B7LWcVz-X2.jpg


i-L5cF2Lg-X2.jpg


Being relatively new to woodworking this was the most complicated project I've taken on. I made some mistakes but nothing I couldn't recover from. The glue up did not go well mostly due to my inexperience. Too many pieces fitting together with Dominos plus the back panel. I'll make some design changes next time something like this comes up and plan better.

As Sedge would say. . .I hope this helps!

 
I might be the cause of some of the Vac Sys revivals lol.  I just ordered mine today.  Thank you for posting your cart looks great.  I think I will do something similar that is simple and then use it for a bit.  This way I can really understand how it will work for me before I spend money on a nice cart I may not use.  Thanks for sharing again. [member=65062]DynaGlide[/member]
 
Looks great Matt!  Glad the plans helped out.

Did you edge-band the sheets? 

I like how you used the router to bore the inserts for the casters.  Nice clean and manageable way to do that.

neil
 
neilc said:
Looks great Matt!  Glad the plans helped out.

Did you edge-band the sheets? 

I like how you used the router to bore the inserts for the casters.  Nice clean and manageable way to do that.

neil

Thanks Neil. I'm really happy with how it has turned out so far.

Yes I picked up an MFK 700 for edge banding around the same time as the Vac Sys. It's a dream using them together on panels.

I know from past experience I'm no good at drilling straight holes so I went with the router for the inserts. The bit was pricey but I figure it'll get used on every cart type thing I end up building. The hardest part was lining the router up to my layout lines so close to the edge of the material. Sort of get it close as you can and cross your fingers type of thing.
 
You are now 'all in' on this woodworking thing and it shows.

When you get your Shaper, those kinds of caster inserts become really easy!  I did mine with the Shaper.  But did not do inserts which I think is a great idea.
 
DynaGlide said:
neilc said:
Looks great Matt!  Glad the plans helped out.

Did you edge-band the sheets? 

I like how you used the router to bore the inserts for the casters.  Nice clean and manageable way to do that.

neil

Thanks Neil. I'm really happy with how it has turned out so far.

Yes I picked up an MFK 700 for edge banding around the same time as the Vac Sys. It's a dream using them together on panels.

I know from past experience I'm no good at drilling straight holes so I went with the router for the inserts. The bit was pricey but I figure it'll get used on every cart type thing I end up building. The hardest part was lining the router up to my layout lines so close to the edge of the material. Sort of get it close as you can and cross your fingers type of thing.

[member=65062]DynaGlide[/member] I am in the same spot where I am looking to get a drill press and I am not sure why in the world I didn't think of just using my router.  Which do you use for drilling and would you recommend it over buying a drill press. To me, it seems like a no brainer to buy an extra router vs a drill press.
 
thedevme said:
DynaGlide said:
neilc said:
Looks great Matt!  Glad the plans helped out.

Did you edge-band the sheets? 

I like how you used the router to bore the inserts for the casters.  Nice clean and manageable way to do that.

neil

Thanks Neil. I'm really happy with how it has turned out so far.

Yes I picked up an MFK 700 for edge banding around the same time as the Vac Sys. It's a dream using them together on panels.

I know from past experience I'm no good at drilling straight holes so I went with the router for the inserts. The bit was pricey but I figure it'll get used on every cart type thing I end up building. The hardest part was lining the router up to my layout lines so close to the edge of the material. Sort of get it close as you can and cross your fingers type of thing.

[member=65062]DynaGlide[/member] I am in the same spot where I am looking to get a drill press and I am not sure why in the world I didn't think of just using my router.  Which do you use for drilling and would you recommend it over buying a drill press. To me, it seems like a no brainer to buy an extra router vs a drill press.

I actually don't own a drill press. And if I did I wouldn't want to try to wrangle a large panel on it. The downside to using a router is it is clunky to clamp the router in place near the edge of the material, but it works, and the spiral bits for this kind of operation can be expensive. But I really didn't have a good way of doing it otherwise.
 
Matt - Just realized an alternative way you could have secured the router for hole plunging like you did for the caster inserts...

What if you clamped a rail across the piece and used the guides and rods you have and two of the rail clamps that come with the saw / router to slide the router along the rail, index to the hole you wanted, then clamp in place with the rail clamps on either side of the rail guide and plunge.  That should give you dimensional stability in two directions for the plunge.

 
neilc said:
Matt - Just realized an alternative way you could have secured the router for hole plunging like you did for the caster inserts...

What if you clamped a rail across the piece and used the guides and rods you have and two of the rail clamps that come with the saw / router to slide the router along the rail, index to the hole you wanted, then clamp in place with the rail clamps on either side of the rail guide and plunge.  That should give you dimensional stability in two directions for the plunge.

You can also use two anti kickback stops to prevent the guide stop from moving instead of clamps.
 
I tried that but with the router hanging over the edge there is nowhere for the leveling foot to rest. I don't own the thicker base.

Next tine I'll put another 3/4 sheet against it for support. I wasn't thinking clearly.
 
DynaGlide said:
I know there's a lot of threads being revived about a Vac Sys station and rather than add on to the others I'll just start my own. I've been thinking about making one ever since I got the unit back in September mainly because I wanted something I could move around with me as my needs during a project change. Having it fixed to one location in my space was problematic because I found if I had stuff on the adjacent bench then I'd have to move it to use the clamping module.

I came across a nifty Shaper Origin cart that [member=167]neilc[/member] designed over on the Origin forum and thought it'd make a good base for what I was after.

i-pL2px6m-L.jpg


I exchanged a few emails and texts with him and he was generous enough to share his SketchUp file with me. I have the base unit completed and going to put it to use for a bit before I decide how I want to attach a top to work with the Vac Sys module beneath. Neil and I have already bounced some ideas on that back and forth but I feel I need to use it for a bit before I settle on a design.

Both sections on the sides are line bored for Sys AZ drawers should I want to house some systainers in the future. The back is line bored for shelving as well. Here's some pictures:

i-cVSNpkb-X2.jpg


i-Hhbz8fV-X2.jpg


i-WNNpXRw-X2.jpg


i-q9mhdR7-X2.jpg


i-NR4dHGX-X2.jpg


i-B7LWcVz-X2.jpg


i-L5cF2Lg-X2.jpg


Being relatively new to woodworking this was the most complicated project I've taken on. I made some mistakes but nothing I couldn't recover from. The glue up did not go well mostly due to my inexperience. Too many pieces fitting together with Dominos plus the back panel. I'll make some design changes next time something like this comes up and plan better.

As Sedge would say. . .I hope this helps!

By any chance, can you share the sketch file or post the dimensions.  I am getting some plywood in tomorrow and would love to so this as well. Also, the wood you are using is that Birch or Baltic Birch?
 
If you head on over to https://community.shapertools.com/t/shaper-station-prototype-now-with-sketchup-plans/1214/27 you will find [member=167]neilc[/member] original thread about this unit where he posted the file. The only thing I changed was I converted it to metric.

I added the knockout panel and Sys AZ drawer for bench dog and related storage:

i-JK2ZDHB-X2.jpg


I also ordered some 10" drawer slides so I can incorporate a drawer in the middle above the foot pedal like Neil did in his. He said this is his most used bench and I can see why. I plan on keeping all my tapes, pencils, dogs, fasteners, etc in it and pulling it out whenever I work on a project. I'd love to get a Sortainer T-loc 4 to help but $170 is kind of silly for a plastic box.
 
DynaGlide said:
If you head on over to https://community.shapertools.com/t/shaper-station-prototype-now-with-sketchup-plans/1214/27 you will find [member=167]neilc[/member] original thread about this unit where he posted the file. The only thing I changed was I converted it to metric.

I added the knockout panel and Sys AZ drawer for bench dog and related storage:

i-JK2ZDHB-X2.jpg


I also ordered some 10" drawer slides so I can incorporate a drawer in the middle above the foot pedal like Neil did in his. He said this is his most used bench and I can see why. I plan on keeping all my tapes, pencils, dogs, fasteners, etc in it and pulling it out whenever I work on a project. I'd love to get a Sortainer T-loc 4 to help but $170 is kind of silly for a plastic box.

Thank you! Are you adding a top?
 
If you can't access the file on Shaper's community, here's a link to the Shaper Station on my Google Drive.  You can download from here.  This version has some slight tweaks based on Matt finding some issues with the file posted on the Shaper forum.  So it's more accurate, but I'd suggest you still confirm as you go...

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1yJP11aBkATwLvllqEfJO6rC9CRXQ6zvy/view?usp=sharing

More photos of the completed bench are in this thread -http://festoolownersgroup.com/festool-how-to/mft3-users/msg547589/#msg547589
 
DynaGlide said:
The hardest part was lining the router up to my layout lines so close to the edge of the material. Sort of get it close as you can and cross your fingers type of thing.

Here's an alternative method that I use a lot.
1. Mark your centerlines as you've noted with a SHARP pencil, then take a small sharp awl or Starrett scribe and mark the center points of all the marked holes.
2. Place the appropriate sized brad point drill bit through a centering jig. I prefer the jigs that Big Gator manufactures.
3. Extend the drill bit thru the jig and it's point will locate itself in the prick mark you made with the Starrett scribe.
4. Flip the jig and drill bit over and place it on the top surface and secure with a clamp.
5. Drill hole and proceed to the next centerline.

It actually takes a lot longer to read the above process than to perform the process. If executed properly, the hole centers will fall within .005"-.008" or less of the original location.  [smile]  No more placing the router and crossing your fingers.

Very nice job on the cabinet by the way. Me likeee. [thumbs up]

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Cheese said:
DynaGlide said:
The hardest part was lining the router up to my layout lines so close to the edge of the material. Sort of get it close as you can and cross your fingers type of thing.

Here's an alternative method that I use a lot.
1. Mark your centerlines as you've noted with a SHARP pencil, then take a small sharp awl or Starrett scribe and mark the center points of all the marked holes.
2. Place the appropriate sized brad point drill bit through a centering jig. I prefer the jigs that Big Gator manufactures.
3. Extend the drill bit thru the jig and it's point will locate itself in the prick mark you made with the Starrett scribe.
4. Flip the jig and drill bit over and place it on the top surface and secure with a clamp.
5. Drill hole and proceed to the next centerline.

It actually takes a lot longer to read the above process than to perform the process. If executed properly, the hole centers will fall within .005"-.008" or less of the original location.  [smile]  No more placing the router and crossing your fingers.

Very nice job on the cabinet by the way. Me likeee. [thumbs up]

[attachimg=1]

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[member=44099]Cheese[/member] This is hilarious I just found this yesterday and ordered one. Thank you for posting I looked for others but couldnt find them.  I will look more on amazon.
 
thedevme said:
This is hilarious I just found this yesterday and ordered one. Thank you for posting I looked for others but couldnt find them.  I will look more on amazon.

They're sold in two versions. One is the jig by itself and the other one is in a plastic case. There's maybe a 50 cent difference in price.
I prefer the cased version because it does a better job in protecting the jig from rust. The metal they use doesn't rust easily because of the alloys in the material.

I purchase them directly from Big Gator.
https://biggatortools.com

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