Video Review of Festool RS 2E Sander (567669)

[PaulMarcel]

This is my video review of the Festool RS-2e half-sheet finishing sander.

Review of Festool RS-2e

 

[rookie08]

Great review!  You hardly ever hear about this one but I was re-reading one of Jerry Work's manual's and this seems to be one of his most used units because, as you spoke about, stays completely flat, heavy enough you can almost let it move on it's own, LOT of coverage due to it's 1/2 sheet size, great for table tops etc. Hmmm, my wife wants me to build her a new dining room table, looks like the material list might just get a must have"material" added on  [laughing]

Cheers!

 

[PaulMarcel]

Thanks for the compliment, Rookie!

Jerry's article is what put the RS-2E on my radar long ago, too.  I don't think you'll be disappointed and if you read Victor's review, too, you'll see that it is more common in the wild than you'd think.  It handles well enough that I've used it on more narrow stock, too, as its weight and large flat surface can be a benefit on so many projects.

 

[iamnothim]

This is an old thread but I'm looking at the RD 2E for sanding off the gum tape on veneer projects.  Hence I'm recharging it.
From reading Paul Schurch's book you don't really want an orbital sander,  although this is one.

Would this be a good choice?

 

[PaulMarcel]

Paul Schürch uses a Festool belt sander with the frame to sand his gum tape off.  He wouldn't let me get close to it in his shop

On my panels, I've wetted the gum tape then used a sharpened scraper like he uses. That gets most of it off.  Wet the remainder then I use this RS2e since it has a nice flat surface.  I have used the RO-150 with the hard pad when there was more junk to sand off; usually it comes off quickly then can go back to the RS2e.  The belt sander would be the best way, but I use the RS2e after the RO-150.

 

[NYC Tiny Shop]

Paul, terrific review, as always.

This sander is my most used sander.  There's never any swirls and it leaves a perfect board.  The weight is just right so that I only need to guide the sander and it does the work for me.  It's also excellent for end grain, although I wouldn't want to use it all day for that. The hole punch plate works well and saves 50% on the cost of paper. It makes holes that are much smaller than ones in the Festool paper, but collection doesn't seem to suffer.  If I was told that I had to choose only one Festool sander, this would be it.

 

[RONWEN]

Great review Paul!  Perhaps get some portable traffic barricades for "shoot days"?   [big grin]

A minor point -- a couple of times in the review you refer to the RS 2E as a "random orbit" sander, it is as you know a "orbital" finish sander -- without question Festool's best finish sander.  Not as aggressive as the RO's but excellent for flat surfaces.

 

[iamnothim]

Paul Schürch uses a Festool belt sander with the frame to sand his gum tape off.  He wouldn't let me get close to it in his shop

On my panels, I've wetted the gum tape then used a sharpened scraper like he uses. That gets most of it off.  Wet the remainder then I use this RS2e since it has a nice flat surface.  I have used the RO-150 with the hard pad when there was more junk to sand off; usually it comes off quickly then can go back to the RS2e.  The belt sander would be the best way, but I use the RS2e after the RO-150.

Thanks Paul !

I'm not old enough to use a belt sander yet.  I'm 56.

I have an ETS 150/3 and the hard pad.  Is there enough incremental benefit to get the RS 2E?

 

[PaulMarcel]

I'm Paul, actually.  I don't have an ETS, but it would be like the Rotex in RO mode.  It would work, just slower.  When I hit the panel with the RO-150, I use the direct-drive (disc) mode to get the gum tape residue off and flatten.  Then move to RO mode.  Just scrape the gum tape well after wetting it and you should be fine.  The RS2e wouldn't be necessary; I use it because I have it and I like the large surface to keep flat.

For marquetry, the veneers can be of differing thickness. There, the RO-150 in a more aggressive mode is very helpful to flatten though you have to be careful to not dip and gouge something.

 

[PaulMarcel]

Great review Paul!  Perhaps get some portable traffic barricades for "shoot days"?   [big grin]

A minor point -- a couple of times in the review you refer to the RS 2E as a "random orbit" sander, it is as you know a "orbital" finish sander -- without question Festool's best finish sander.  Not as aggressive as the RO's but excellent for flat surfaces.

Yeah it's one of those things where I knew what I was supposed to say but said something else :-/  Someone else pointed it out back when I recorded it; I should maybe go back and add a YouTube caption for the correction. Thanks, Ron

 

[iamnothim]

I'm Paul, actually.  I don't have an ETS, but it would be like the Rotex in RO mode.  It would work, just slower.  When I hit the panel with the RO-150, I use the direct-drive (disc) mode to get the gum tape residue off and flatten.  Then move to RO mode.  Just scrape the gum tape well after wetting it and you should be fine.  The RS2e wouldn't be necessary; I use it because I have it and I like the large surface to keep flat.

For marquetry, the veneers can be of differing thickness. There, the RO-150 in a more aggressive mode is very helpful to flatten though you have to be careful to not dip and gouge something.

Of course you're Paul.
And I'm an idiot.
But then, I don't have vulcanized rubber flying towards me at 175 km/h.

Does that mean that RO should not be used to remove the tape?   Just go with the water and PS autographed putty knife for the entire gum tape removal...then sand for finish?
I'm hung up on the whole "Random Orbital" thing on veneer.  I think I got that from Paul Schurch's video..... That RO is bad.

I just worry about putting too much water on.

btw: I'm registered for Paul's (the other Paul) 5 day fall workshop.

 

[PaulMarcel]

You'll like his workshop; I wrote up a review of the version of that workshop he did out here.  I later visited his shop for a crazy 8 hour day; there's a 'hand-held' video of that... there was no room up in his storage area to take a decent shot, but fun stuff anyway.

If I only had an RO sander, I'd just scrape more with the putty knife; the gum tape comes off very easily if you wet it enough. On regular panels, I'll sometimes use a brass brush to scrub it off; dunno if I'd use that on marquetry due to the differing thicknesses and small corners here and there.  Of course a regular scraper works great on wet tape.  So... you can get really far without a sander; more of the tape you get off, less you have to sand.  Paul's belt sander is crazy fast and takes off the tape quickly. That would be ideal.

You should just sponge the water onto the tape; go heavy with it... if you get a bubble in the veneer because of the water, be happy you found it now and can fix it. So you actually want to wet the whole panel down; do that to remove the tape and you'll find areas to fix as you go that need fixing before sanding.  As part of a project build series, I did a video on veneer tape and fixing veneer bubbles. That might be useful (for content or as a sleep aid

The thing with a slow sander (RO mode or disc mode) is that you have time to dish and you can't dish veneer. The frame on Paul's belt sander is the key. 

 

[iamnothim]

You'll like his workshop; I wrote up a review of the version of that workshop he did out here.  I later visited his shop for a crazy 8 hour day; there's a 'hand-held' video of that... there was no room up in his storage area to take a decent shot, but fun stuff anyway.

If I only had an RO sander, I'd just scrape more with the putty knife; the gum tape comes off very easily if you wet it enough. On regular panels, I'll sometimes use a brass brush to scrub it off; dunno if I'd use that on marquetry due to the differing thicknesses and small corners here and there.  Of course a regular scraper works great on wet tape.  So... you can get really far without a sander; more of the tape you get off, less you have to sand.  Paul's belt sander is crazy fast and takes off the tape quickly. That would be ideal.

You should just sponge the water onto the tape; go heavy with it... if you get a bubble in the veneer because of the water, be happy you found it now and can fix it. So you actually want to wet the whole panel down; do that to remove the tape and you'll find areas to fix as you go that need fixing before sanding.  As part of a project build series, I did a video on veneer tape and fixing veneer bubbles. That might be useful (for content or as a sleep aid

The thing with a slow sander (RO mode or disc mode) is that you have time to dish and you can't dish veneer. The frame on Paul's belt sander is the key. 

Outstanding info.
So far I've only made a picture frame.  I'm in the middle of a burl table and I want to get it right.

 

[PaulMarcel]

Thanks!

I should have asked if it was marquetry or a more normal panel with big veneer. You already have it pretty clean.  RO it up to a smooth surface with the hard pad. If you have a ridge somewhere, use a scraper to take it down carefully since with a sander you might inadvertently dish while riding on the ridge to bring it down.

Yeah, that's a picture of Paul with his older Makita he used before getting the BS-105.

Paul is teaching out here again later this year. It's the same marquetry class I already took, but because of that, he'll have me work on a pietra dura project so I kinda get a part-time private on it... booyeah.

 

[iamnothim]

Thanks!

I should have asked if it was marquetry or a more normal panel with big veneer. You already have it pretty clean.Not near sanding yet.  That's the glue side of the field right after cutting it out.  I chose satinwood for the border before knowing how tough the wood is.  I'm more than a little concerned about cutting it to fit the field.  The question at this moment is filetti or no filetti.  RO it up to a smooth surface with the hard pad. If you have a ridge somewhere, use a scraper to take it down carefully since with a sander you might inadvertently dish while riding on the ridge to bring it down.  My questions were in preparation for post glue up and if I should get the RS 2E.  Sounds like I'm fine with the water, putty knife, then the 150/3 and a hard pad.  That's good because I want an MFK Trim Router..... BAD

Paul,  Thanks for the links and the workshop writeup. Excellent !  From your links I have more scroll saw tips from Paul and how to sand shade.  I have both DVD's

Yeah, that's a picture of Paul with his older Makita he used before getting the BS-105. It would get ugly fast if I had a belt sander in my hand.  Ain't gonna happen.

Paul is teaching out here again later this year. It's the same marquetry class I already took, but because of that, he'll have me work on a pietra dura project so I kinda get a part-time private DOG !on it... booyeah.