Video Review of Festool TS 75 Track Saw (561188)

PaulMarcel

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Mar 6, 2008
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Here is my video review of the Festool TS-75 tracksaw.  I'm posting a playlist link here as the video is broken up into two parts.  Besides the saw, I try to cover some things I find it particularly adept at doing that isn't easily accomplished with other tools.

I hope even experienced users will find something useful here :)


 
Another great review Paul.  You are now 4 for 4. 

I have had the TS75 for a long time but I still learned two things from the video.  (1) How to make the splinter guard useful with this larger saw.  (2) How to use the saw to substitute for a jointer (something I will defiantely take advantage of at Pellow's Camp).
 
Sparktrician said:
Well done videos!!!  Speaking of jointing long boards, the late John Lucas and our own very much alive Bob Marino did a really neat thing to joint two boards together using the TS55 and a guide rail (http://woodshopdemos.com/fes-53.htm).  

[smile]

Bob looks like one of the extras in Resident Evil [scared] in those photos, hope he cleans up a bit better in person.

Bill

P.S PM, if you want to swap for something a little lighter and easier to handle let me know... I'm sure we could work something out....
 
Another great review Paul -- you have found your niche.  I often use the back-to-back edge jointing procedure mentioned above, it works great.

How about a picture of your garage door guide rail storage brackets -- that's a handy use of wasted space.
 
Excellent reviews.  Very helpful.  Thanks.

...so many Festools, so few dollars.
 
billg71 said:
Bob looks like one of the extras in Resident Evil [scared] in those photos, hope he cleans up a bit better in person.

Bill

P.S PM, if you want to swap for something a little lighter and easier to handle let me know... I'm sure we could work something out....

I'm betting Bob's looking a little ragged this week after the reconditioned promo.

Your signature line revealed your identity ;)

I actually wanted to do an edge-joint demo or at least talk about it in the video with a link to Bob's video, but once the camera turned on, my brain drained.

When I film the next video, I'll make a small clip of the door guide-rail mount.  That was an idea I found here and I honestly can't remember from who.  Whoever posted it originally, thank you.  I blogged about it here. (and others here seemed to have found it; since this vide, it's page views went nuts).
 
Paul. excellent video and tip about the mod to the splinter guard for  a shallower depth of cut.
Your comment about the self ejecting sticker was right on. [laughing]

You also made a comment about the splinter guard strip and kerf widths of different blades.  I think the same kerf width blade is going to be only for the TS 55 as of now, not for the TS 75.  I asked this question a few weeks ago and Tom Bellemare (sp.?) answered this IIRC.

Vijay
 
Oh, I missed that.  Thanks for pointing that out.  I can't find it, but I remember getting an email (SysNotes?) that listed the old part numbers and new parts numbers along with their respective kerf sizes.  I swore I saw the TS-75 blades in that list.  Bummer if they aren't.

I'll research this further; if that was wrong in the video, maybe I'll rerender it with a call-out pointing out that they are only for the 55 so far.
 
hey paul nice review, glad to see others with distractions in there videos also like the barking mut !  thanks for taking the time.
 
Paul, wonderful videos you make...thx...

I am curious...  your system of edge jointing is excellent, and as you correctly mention, its actually better than a jointer, as no jointer has beds as long as 9ft guide rail.  Once you have one straight edge, a parallel guide can cut the other... perfect....

But what about the face?  How do you get your wood flat without a jointer?    If your video mentioned this, I may have missed it...thx in advance...
 
JSands said:
Paul, wonderful videos you make...thx...

I am curious...   your system of edge jointing is excellent, and as you correctly mention, its actually better than a jointer, as no jointer has beds as long as 9ft guide rail.   Once you have one straight edge, a parallel guide can cut the other... perfect....

But what about the face?   How do you get your wood flat without a jointer?    If your video mentioned this, I may have missed it...thx in advance...

That's what's his spiffy new RO90 is for. [tongue]  I think you're taking his better than a jointer comment a little too seriously. 
 
In fact, besides re-built classic joiners there are several currently made joiners with very long beds and fences. A good friend of mine owns a monster Martin joiner. IIRC that one has a 14' bed. My 20" wide joiner is a Felder with an 11' bed and fence.

Unfortunately you do need significant space for these kinds of machines and they are far more expensive than Festool plunge saws and guide rails. My friend and I have the best of both worlds. Each of us owns virtually every Festool sold in the USA, and a few we each have brought back from trips elsewhere.

JSands said:
Paul, wonderful videos you make...thx...

I am curious...   your system of edge jointing is excellent, and as you correctly mention, its actually better than a jointer, as no jointer has beds as long as 9ft guide rail.   Once you have one straight edge, a parallel guide can cut the other... perfect....

But what about the face?   How do you get your wood flat without a jointer?    If your video mentioned this, I may have missed it...thx in advance...
 
>  I think you're taking his better than a jointer comment a little too seriously.

            Why?  I have a pretty long jointer, approx. 8ft... if had to edge joint 8 ft boards, I would probably do it with long Festool rail... at least the edges, I can get them straight, clean, parallel and accurate width,  two passes with the TS75... tough to beat IMO...   

I was curious about the faces?   
 
Thanks for the compliments, JSands... especially for the first video I shot, back when the little red light made me forget everything ;)

I'd have to re-watch it to see what exactly I said, but it should have been that I feel it is superior for edge jointing.  With S2S stock, it is easy to place the rail exactly where you want the edge and run it.  Usually this is the one time I use the clamps since taking, say, half a kerf off the side of hard maple does try to pull the rail along with the saw to the outside of the cut.  In my case, I usually then hit the edge with a plane to clean any machine marks off.  Maybe that process isn't faster for a shorter board, but I'm thinking aircraft carrier jointers to joint a 6'+ board require at least 12' front to back clearance.  That's a boatload :) of space.

I read your question earlier, but thought to post a picture or two to explain the other benefit of the tracksaw for edge jointing.  Here's a piece of QS Wenge I got this week for a project:

[attachimg=1]

Notice the QS grain doesn't go parallel the edge at all.  Sure you could edge joint this to get a straight edge, but it does nothing to the skew of the grain.  For this project, I need the grain dead straight to the edges.  Here, the straight edge shows the angle I'd put the guide rail to rip a straight jointed edge parallel to the grain.  That I think would be tricky on a jointer, even by hand planes.

[attachimg=2]

The jointer is still hugely beneficial for face jointing boards to make that S2S stock in the first place.  In my case, for bad stuff, I use a planer sled.  Other stock gets hit with the Jack plane until the bottom face would fully register on my planer bed, then I run it on the planer to get the top face flat, flip repeat (truthfully, I flip the board often skip planing down to keep the moisture equalized, eh, details)
 
Paul.... fully agreed, and great tip about jointing to the grain, another nice benefit of using Festool Rails for edge jointing....

I understand your face jointing now....I thought in the video you mentioned you do not have a jointer, hence why I was confused how you were flattening the boards....

So now i am curious, after flattening the first face, do you use a planer to get the opposite face flat AND PARALLEL? 
 
Oh, definitely... either planer sled to get the top surface flat or hand planes to get one side to reference flat on the planer bed to again run it through and get the top surface flat.  Once you have that one flat, flip and plane again to get parallel surfaces.  My comment about flipping more often is because I tend to do it by skip planing, but same end result.
 
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