Hi Everyone,
I have wanted to build a Hall Table for quite some time. I am in the process of redoing my office and I built a couple of new desks and bookcases and needed something to fill the space that used to be occupied by an old desk. I had some Walnut stock stashed in my lumber pile that was perfect for this project and so I decided to build this piece. There has been talk on the FOG about wanting more “how to” information on using Festools and I thought that this project would be a perfect opportunity to challenge myself to use mostly Festool tools to complete the build and to demonstrate some tips and techniques that I used in the process. I shot video of the entire build and did my best to edit appropriately and show the key information or the more interesting/challenging parts of the build. I also wanted to limited myself to a basic set of Festools that many new and experienced users might have at their disposal. Some of these tools might not be in everyone’s arsenal, but there are substitutes for each one. I also tried to break the project videos into different stages – from milling and dimensioning stock, to cutting joinery to shaping and finishing. That way you could see a particular part of the process without having to scan or sit through a lengthy video. I should also mention that there a several ways to get from point A to point Z in woodworking – the tips and techniques I employ are not the only way or the end all method to finish a given task. There are certainly different ways to complete the same process with different tools and techniques. I should also point out that some techniques can perhaps be done faster or more efficiently using stationary machines, but that is not the point of this build – it is to show how accurate and versatile Festool tools are and how you can do fine woodworking safely and in a minimal amount of space – I used part of a single bay in my garage shop for this project.
Hall Table Intro
With the exception of my Jointer/Planer combination machine, my dust collector, an old non-Festool jigsaw, a couple of chisels, a hammer, mallet, a low angle jack plane and various measuring and marking tools, I completed this entire project from start to finish using the following Festool tools:
• MFT/3 with a modified extension table from the older MFT 800/MFT 1080 series of work tables; 1 pair of Quick Clamps 1 pair of screw clamps and 2 pairs of Clamping Elements
• CT22 dust extractor with Boom Arm, both 27mm and 36mm hoses
• TS75 Plunge Cut saw with the stock blade
• 1900 Rail (that came with the above saw) – I started using a 1400 Rail, but the 1900 worked well
• Parallel Guides with Extensions
• Domino 500 jointer – 4mm, 5mm and 6mm cutters and Dominos
• RS2E Sander and grits 80 – 400
• RO90 Sander – grits 80-400
• DTS400 – grits 100-400 (I could have relied only on the RO90, but used this sander on the inside of the drawer frame on the front stretcher and to sand the edges of the drawer front and stretchers)
• OF1010 router with edge guide and various 8mm shank bits (rabbeting bit, 30 degree chamfer, 9.5mm round-over from Festool; ¼ inch straight bit non-Festool). ¼ inch shank bits would work fine for the cuts made on this project
• T15 Drill with Centrotec Installer set
• Festool Rule
I chose the above tools based on personal preference and how I work and what I own. There are lots of substitutes to this list. For example, I could have easily swapped the RS2E sander for a Rotex 150 or ETS150 and achieved fantastic results (especially with a hard pad) – I really like the RS2E and so I have come to rely on it for the majority of my sanding as it guarantees flat surfaces and it leaves a fantastic finish. The RO90 is a great sander and I could have used the Delta pad on it in lieu of the DTS400. However, I had one spot where I wanted to be sure that I would have a flat surface and I did not want to risk round over the edge which I thought was a possibility with the RO90 as I am not as practiced with it as I am with the DTS400, so I used it instead.
Not to get on a high horse, but I feel compelled to mention a few things about the safety of you and those around you. Please make sure you read and understand all of the manuals and instructions that come with your tools. Woodworking can be dangerous – be aware of your surroundings, wear safety glasses and hearing protection when using power tools. Also, if you are not comfortable with a particular process or procedure or if something feels unsafe, then stop and ask for help and/or find a different method to complete that step. Have fun and please work safely.
I will provide a quick description of each step in the build and provide a link to the video detailing the process and some of my thoughts about a particular step. I am not a videographer by any stretch and so please excuse any poor lighting or fuzzy pictures or the single lens views – I did everything myself and this was a first for me. I tried to do my best job editing too, but this is a difficult and time consuming process and it is one of the reasons I am chunking this out into smaller sections rather than one or two longer videos. Also, I did not edit out any of mistakes or issues that I encountered. For a teaser I made a couple of catastrophic errors in the build and I talk about how I resolved them. I am not afraid to point out my mistakes as I think this is a part of the education process.
If anyone wants information on this piece, let me know and I can work out some details. I typically rough out a quick sketch and a few critical measurements and then start the construction. It might not be the most efficient way to do things, but it is how I have been working for years. A lot of it is in my head and I visualize things as I go, working out problems as I encounter them. I am not a Sketch-up expert at all, so it would probably be a scan of my rough sketch and an estimate of the wood you would need along with a basic cut list.
I would appreciate any feedback as well – positive or constructive. I am here to learn just as much as the next guy and if someone has thoughts on a better way or a different approach, then I would love to hear them and discuss them.
____________
The first part of any build (once I have an idea in mind), is to look at the lumber for grain orientation and cut the pieces to rough length – usually 20mm – 40mm longer than final dimension to account for any snipe as I dimension the stock. I like to use a jigsaw for this purpose as some boards are in the rough or I am cutting things down from longer boards and there could be tension released as the cut is made and a jigsaw’s blade is thin, reducing the risk of kickback if the stock closes up around the blade. If cutting from rough stock, I will often cut a few inches off the end of the board to see if there are any cracks or “checking” before cutting to length. This is an important step as a hidden crack can run several mm into a board’s length and if you do not account for it, then you might end up with a board that is too short for the part.
Hall Table Jigsaw
After the boards are cut to rough length, I will then mill them on the Jointer and Planer to get the faces flat and parallel. I always face joint my material until it is 80% flat on one face before running it through the planer. In my experience, I have not had luck buying wood from any supplier that is truly flat and so I do not skip this step. Jointing the face of a board to approximately 80% flat gives enough of a reference edge on the planer bed to ensure a parallel face when planed. I also position the board to joint and plane with the grain (usually in the direction of the pointed end of the figure) and I joint with the concave side pointing down (meaning the 4 corners of the board are on the jointer bed and the higher middle part of the board is up. After getting one face flat, I then run it through the planer to get the other side parallel and to the proper thickness. If I am removing a lot of material, I will flip the material after each pass or two to ensure material is coming off of both sides and is somewhat uniform – this can help minimize any movement of the wood after the initial milling. Also, I will typically let any material acclimate to my shop prior to using it as this also helps minimize movement.
The next video shows this process and also how I am going to deal with some material that is a little thinner than my final dimensions.
Hall Table Planing Jointing Stock
Once the material is jointed and planed, the next step in the process is to straight-line one side of each board. Some woodworkers will use a jointer for this to get one edge straight and 90 degrees to one face of the board. I think that a Festool Tracksaw is a better option – it is faster and in my opinion a safer way to accomplish this same task. In addition, it gives the user some flexibility to position the guide rail on the stock to maximize yield and to account for grain. I think that the TS75 saw is ideal for this purpose, especially when dealing with thicker hardwoods like 8/4 stock.
Hall Table Straightlining with TS75
Once one edge is straight and at 90 degrees to the face of the material, I will then rip the pieces to proper width and the Parallel Guides (PGs) ensure that each piece will be parallel to the opposite edge and the same width when ripping multiple parts. The PGs need to be calibrated to the saw you are using, but once set, they are extremely accurate. Once you are done, they pack up into a very small space. I started doing most of my cuts right on the top of the MFT/3, using the top as the spoiler board – I find this the easiest way to accomplish cutting and I do not have to worry about adding a different cut surface to my MFt/3. There is nothing wrong with the latter either. Personally I found it liberating to cut into my top and after the first few, it is no big deal. When using the extensions to the PGs (that allow for narrow rips), I will elevate the rail and extensions to allow for clearance of the U-channels. I also find that the bottom of the U is a perfect place to position a clamp – this helps secure the rail and PGs so that they do not more around the MFT/3 and it helps clamp the rail to the material you are cutting, helping to ensure a more accurate cut.
Hall Table Parallel Guides
After I cut the stretchers to width, I turned my attention to the top. I needed to straight line each side of the top before glue up to remove some defects in the edge and to ensure I had a good glue line. I am not concerned with parallel edges at this point, but do want to check for nice grain orientation and clean edges. The TS75 makes nice rips on the edges and after a couple of passes I was able to get a nice joint. I decided to use some Dominos to help align the top and minimize sanding I would have to do after the two pieces were glued together. Here is a quick video of the steps I took to mill the top and another video of using the Domino to cut the slots in the top along with the glue-up.
Hall Table Starting the Top
Hall Table Domino Top and Glue up
Once everything is ripped to width, it is time to cross-cut the pieces to size. Again, the MFT/3 comes into play with the fence, stop and guide rail. To ensure accurate 90 degree cuts, you have to square the fence to the guide rail. There is much discussion on the proper way to calibrate the MFT/3. Here is a quick video of how I do the process. The key for me is to use a square that I know is square – I use a sheet of plywood that I have cut to a tolerance of within .001 inches over 16 inches (more than enough for woodworking) and it allows for easy alignment of the fence to the rail at 90 degrees. I also talk about the end stop that supports the end of the fence to the MFT/3 profile and the order of how I clamp things to ensure the fence does not move. There are other techniques for achieving the same results, but this method has worked for me to quickly set up and accurately align everything on my MFT/3. One last step is to ensure that the rail just lies down on the tab of the front clamp assembly of the table – I used to move mine over a little one way or the other to get the tab in place. If yours does not line up, then you have probably over-tightened the top bolt that secures the rail to the back clamp. To fix it, loosen the nuts, adjust the rail square to the fence and tighten the lower nut. Double check you setting and then raise the fence. Tighten the upper nut, but when it starts to tighten, just give it a ¼ turn or so – you want it snug but over tightening will tweak the rail out of square again. You should be able to lower the rail with one finger and it should rest right on the tab with no side-to-side movement.
Here is a quick video of the calibration process I use:
Hall Table MFT3 Square set-up
After the MFT/3 is calibrated, I make the cross-cuts. To ease setting the guide rail to the proper depth, I set the work pieces on the table and span them across the width. I then raise the back of the rail up so that the rail lays flat across all of the pieces and clamp it in place. I then adjust the back of the rail so that it lays flat on the work and clamp that in place. I am then ready to make a measurement and set the stop for repetitive cuts. I usually will cut a piece of scrap to length to double check my setup before cutting my actual stock. It takes seconds for this step and if I need to tweak any settings I would rather do it on scrap than my actual material. Once set, I will cut one end of all the material to get one square edge to the sides I just ripped, I will then flip the material 180 degrees end over end and cut the stock to proper length.
Here is a quick video of cross-cutting the legs to length. Note that all of the cross-cuts for this Hall Table are done in the same manner for all of the components (front, rear and side stretchers; drawer runner assembly; drawer box assembly; top).
Hall Table Cutting Legs to Length
After all of the parts are ripped and cross-cut to size, it is time to turn to the joinery. I elected to use 6mm Dominos for most of the joinery on the legs and stretchers. I lay out the marks on the top of each leg and corresponding marks on the ends of each stretcher and then use the center line on the Domino to accurately align all of the cuts. I have used the cross-stops in certain applications and they also work well if you do not want to individually mark all of the pieces. I find it fast and accurate to just align the Domino to marks on the stock. I also used the tightest setting on the ends of the stretcher and the middle setting on the legs so that I could have a little room to align the parts. I want the top edge of all of the stretchers to be flush with the top of each leg and having some extra room to move the stretcher vertically aids in the process during glue-up.
Hall Table Cutting Domino Mortises in Legs and Stretchers
After I cut all of the joinery I like to do a dry fit to check the fit and make sure everything is square and lines up. Here is a quick video of how the table looks after the Dominos are cut and before I taper the legs or cut the drawer front.
Hall Table Dry Fit after Dominos
The next step in the process is to taper the legs. There are a lot of ways you can taper the legs ranging from using hand planes, a tapering jig on the table saw, cutting them on a bandsaw with a taper jig or freehand, using a jointer and/or a planer with a sled and of course, you can also use a Festool TS saw and guide rail. The last method is what I chose to use for this build and this video clip explains the set-up and shows the process that I used. I used clamping elements to secure the stock and to provide stops to prevent the stock from moving. It was also important to use the stop on the guide rail to help prevent kick-back as the saw entered the stock at the beginning of the cut. It worked well and I was pleased with the end result.
Hall Table Tapers
After the legs are tapered it is now time to cut out the drawer opening on the front stretcher. This is certainly something that is optional and some folks might prefer to exclude the drawer altogether. I wanted a drawer as I think it adds to the overall look and functionality of the piece. As a design element I thought it would be neat to have the front of the Hall Table Desk have continuous grain across the front stretcher so I elected to cut the drawer front out from the stretcher. Using my TS75 and jigsaw made the process easy and accurate. This video explains the set-up shows how this can be accomplished safely and accurately with a plunge saw and jigsaw. In regards to the set-up, I used my MFT/3, the flag stop to accurately plunge in the right spot and a quick clamp. Since I was not actually separating the piece it is OK to use the clamp on the right side of the stock to secure it as well as have the other end butted up against the stop. There is little danger of kick-back since I was not cutting the piece in half. The clamp was critical to ensure that I did not have the piece move after it was in position, especially since I flipped it over and made a plunge cut from each end. It is also important to use the stop supplied with the TS saw to prevent kick-back at the start of the plunge cut. I used the PGs again for the long plunge cuts to make sure I was cutting each side of the drawer parallel to the edge of the stretcher. Finally, I used a jigsaw to finish the cutout on each corner. Some light sanding on the drawer from and a little on the inside of drawer front opening on the stretcher was all that was left to complete this part of the project.
Hall Table Cutting Drawer Front
Once the drawer front is cut, the next step is to build the drawer runner assembly. I elected to build a channel to hold each side of the drawer and a front frame that would act as a stop for the drawer itself. The top and bottom of the assembly are connected to the sides with 6mm Dominos and the front of the assembly is connected to the stretcher with 4mm Dominos. These helped tie the front of the assembly to the stretcher and helped keep the top and bottom of the stretcher where the drawer was cut straight (I had ever so slight bowing when the tension was released when I cut out the drawer front and using 4mm Dominos helped align everything back during assembly). I cut 64 mortises for this assembly – probably overkill, but it was fast using the Domino.
Hall Table Drawer Runner Assembly
I like to finish sand each of the parts prior to final assembly and glue-up. I find it easier to sand the full side and edge of the parts on their own and then I only need to touch-up any dings or minor damage that happens during glue-up. My sander of choice for most furniture parts is the RS2E sander. This helps me ensure that I keep each piece flat and with the big pad, I am able to move quickly through the different grits. A Rotex or RO sander would also work fine for this process. I also used my DTS400 for edges and the inside of the drawer opening and the RO90 to smooth the legs after assembly and also for the drawer runner assembly. These three sanders were all I needed but in reality, I could have just used two of them – either the DTS or the RO90 would have been fine along with the RS2E.
Hall Table Sanding Explanation and RS2E
After everything is sanded, it is time to start the glue-up. I needed to do this in stages since there were a lot of Dominos and different assemblies. I started by gluing up the legs to the front and back stretcher as two assemblies. I glued the drawer runners as one assembly and then once dry I glued this assembly to the front stretcher and added the sides and then the back stretcher assembly. This next video is quick, in part because I messed up the entire assembly. One thing I found humorous was that the sticker from the Systainer of my beloved OF2200 somehow ended up on my back -- I think I brushed against the Systainer and did not realize it and the original video has me walking around proudly displaying it... [big grin].
Hall Table Front Assembly Glue Up
I made a huge mistake while gluing the front and back assembly that I did not discover until the next day [embarassed]. I accidentally reversed the front stretcher and glued the inside facing out. What to do…I did not want to have to reconstruct half of the Hall table again so I decided to use the plunge saw to cut the legs off of each stretcher and then recut the joints with the Domino and start the process again. Since I had cut slots in both the front and back stretcher, I was able to use Dominos to help align these two parts and I cut both legs off in one operation. It worked well and I was fortunate that I was able to recover from this mistake. It goes to show that you should not work when tired and I was doing the glue-up late at night after spending a full day in the shop.
Hall Table Disaster Averted
Before I did the final assembly, I did a dry fit to make sure that everything still lined up and also to help me determine how many clamps I would need and where any problem areas might be. There is a lot going on with this assembly and with it being pretty warm in my shop, I had to move quickly to make sure that the glue did not set up before I got everything positioned correctly. After it was glued up and checked for square I let it rest for several hours to dry.
Hall Table Final Glue-up
With the leg assembly of the Hall Table now complete, I focused my attention on constructing the drawer box itself. I wanted to use Domino construction for the drawer and I used Sipo Dominos for the front of the drawer to provide contrast to the soft Maple used in the box. I milled the pieces to the correct thickness and had ripped them all to width using the PGs and the same techniques that I used with the stretchers. I also wanted to have a solid wood bottom as opposed to plywood and I made this part the same way as I did the top. After crosscutting the drawer sides, front and back to the right lengths, I was able to use the Domino to complete the joinery. After the joinery is cut, I then route a groove to accept the drawer bottom. The front and both sides will have the groove and the back will be cut a little narrower so that the drawer bottom can slide into the groove after assembly. It will have room to expand and contract with seasonal changes and I find it is easier to finish the drawer without have the bottom installed. I also used the RO90 to sand the inside faces of the sides, front and back prior to glue up and I added tape to the inside corners to account for any glue squeeze out.
Hall Table Drawer Box Assembly
After the assembly was dry, I needed to cut the Dominos as close to flush as possible and then sand everything flush and final sand. I used a jigsaw for this along with the RO90 sander. Here is another mistake – you can see in the video that my jigsaw was not cutting exactly straight and so I actually cut into the sides of the drawer box [embarassed]. Another potentially catastrophic error! But, the RO90 and 60 Grit paper worked well to remove enough material on each side to eliminate the gouge caused by the jigsaw and smooth everything out nicely. After the sanding, I routed a rabbet on the drawer bottom to fit the grooves in the sides and front.
Hall Table Drawer Dominos Sanding and Fitting Bottom
After routing the rabbet on the drawer bottom it is time to fit the bottom in the drawer. There were two Dominos on the sides that protruded into the grooves and so I needed to use a chisel to remove a little material to get the drawer to fit properly.
Hall Table Fitting Drawer Bottom
With the drawer box complete, I can turn my attention to finishing the drawer assembly by cutting the drawer runner guides to the right length and sanding them to the right thickness. These guides are simply two pieces of walnut that are thicknesses to allow the drawer to slide freely in and out of the assembly while keeping it from twisting side to side in the process. I also talk about little spacers I made that are approximately the thickness of the TS75 blade kerf. I will use these spacers to help me align the drawer front to the drawer during final assembly.
Hall Table Spacers
With the drawer complete and the top cut to size, it is now time to profile the edge. I decided that since the top was 7/8 inch thick that it needed to be “lightened” a little to fit the overall design. I decided to use a 30 degree chamfer bit to help lighten the edge on the bottom, followed by a 9.5mm roundover bit on the top edge of the top. I think that the profile came out nice and compliments the table nicely. Of course you could use whatever edge treatment you like and that fits your taste. Here is a video of the profile and demonstration of how I cut it on the top. Again, I used my OF1010 router for all of these cuts.
Hall Table Top Edge Profile
With the table almost complete, I need to construct wooden buttons to secure the top to the stretchers. Thanks to a couple of FOG members for the tip to use Dominos in this process. These buttons are easy to construct and it is a great way to secure the top of your piece to the lower assembly.
Hall Table Buttons
After final sanding the top and legs to 400 Grit, I applied an oil/varnish finish. This really popped the grain and I was happy with how it came out. I used the shims I cut previously to center the drawer front in the opening and used some double-stick tape to secure the front to the front of the drawer box temporarily so that I could screw it together. I then added a pull.
Hall Table Completion
This hall table was a lot of fun to build and I hope that you enjoyed seeing the videos of the build. I also hope that you picked up a few tips in the process. This goes to show how versatile Festool tools can be and that you can accurately build furniture with a fairly basic set. I also learned a lot in the process:
1. I need to improve my videography skills – certainly not up to Paul, Peter or Dave’s level yet
2. Do not glue things together when you are tired
3. I really, really need to get a better jigsaw….I can almost hear a Trion calling my name…
4. Filming, editing and building things takes a lot of time and is a lot more work than it might appear
5. I say "okay" alot, among many other speech ticks....
I look forward to hearing your comments!
Scot
I have wanted to build a Hall Table for quite some time. I am in the process of redoing my office and I built a couple of new desks and bookcases and needed something to fill the space that used to be occupied by an old desk. I had some Walnut stock stashed in my lumber pile that was perfect for this project and so I decided to build this piece. There has been talk on the FOG about wanting more “how to” information on using Festools and I thought that this project would be a perfect opportunity to challenge myself to use mostly Festool tools to complete the build and to demonstrate some tips and techniques that I used in the process. I shot video of the entire build and did my best to edit appropriately and show the key information or the more interesting/challenging parts of the build. I also wanted to limited myself to a basic set of Festools that many new and experienced users might have at their disposal. Some of these tools might not be in everyone’s arsenal, but there are substitutes for each one. I also tried to break the project videos into different stages – from milling and dimensioning stock, to cutting joinery to shaping and finishing. That way you could see a particular part of the process without having to scan or sit through a lengthy video. I should also mention that there a several ways to get from point A to point Z in woodworking – the tips and techniques I employ are not the only way or the end all method to finish a given task. There are certainly different ways to complete the same process with different tools and techniques. I should also point out that some techniques can perhaps be done faster or more efficiently using stationary machines, but that is not the point of this build – it is to show how accurate and versatile Festool tools are and how you can do fine woodworking safely and in a minimal amount of space – I used part of a single bay in my garage shop for this project.
Hall Table Intro
With the exception of my Jointer/Planer combination machine, my dust collector, an old non-Festool jigsaw, a couple of chisels, a hammer, mallet, a low angle jack plane and various measuring and marking tools, I completed this entire project from start to finish using the following Festool tools:
• MFT/3 with a modified extension table from the older MFT 800/MFT 1080 series of work tables; 1 pair of Quick Clamps 1 pair of screw clamps and 2 pairs of Clamping Elements
• CT22 dust extractor with Boom Arm, both 27mm and 36mm hoses
• TS75 Plunge Cut saw with the stock blade
• 1900 Rail (that came with the above saw) – I started using a 1400 Rail, but the 1900 worked well
• Parallel Guides with Extensions
• Domino 500 jointer – 4mm, 5mm and 6mm cutters and Dominos
• RS2E Sander and grits 80 – 400
• RO90 Sander – grits 80-400
• DTS400 – grits 100-400 (I could have relied only on the RO90, but used this sander on the inside of the drawer frame on the front stretcher and to sand the edges of the drawer front and stretchers)
• OF1010 router with edge guide and various 8mm shank bits (rabbeting bit, 30 degree chamfer, 9.5mm round-over from Festool; ¼ inch straight bit non-Festool). ¼ inch shank bits would work fine for the cuts made on this project
• T15 Drill with Centrotec Installer set
• Festool Rule
I chose the above tools based on personal preference and how I work and what I own. There are lots of substitutes to this list. For example, I could have easily swapped the RS2E sander for a Rotex 150 or ETS150 and achieved fantastic results (especially with a hard pad) – I really like the RS2E and so I have come to rely on it for the majority of my sanding as it guarantees flat surfaces and it leaves a fantastic finish. The RO90 is a great sander and I could have used the Delta pad on it in lieu of the DTS400. However, I had one spot where I wanted to be sure that I would have a flat surface and I did not want to risk round over the edge which I thought was a possibility with the RO90 as I am not as practiced with it as I am with the DTS400, so I used it instead.
Not to get on a high horse, but I feel compelled to mention a few things about the safety of you and those around you. Please make sure you read and understand all of the manuals and instructions that come with your tools. Woodworking can be dangerous – be aware of your surroundings, wear safety glasses and hearing protection when using power tools. Also, if you are not comfortable with a particular process or procedure or if something feels unsafe, then stop and ask for help and/or find a different method to complete that step. Have fun and please work safely.
I will provide a quick description of each step in the build and provide a link to the video detailing the process and some of my thoughts about a particular step. I am not a videographer by any stretch and so please excuse any poor lighting or fuzzy pictures or the single lens views – I did everything myself and this was a first for me. I tried to do my best job editing too, but this is a difficult and time consuming process and it is one of the reasons I am chunking this out into smaller sections rather than one or two longer videos. Also, I did not edit out any of mistakes or issues that I encountered. For a teaser I made a couple of catastrophic errors in the build and I talk about how I resolved them. I am not afraid to point out my mistakes as I think this is a part of the education process.
If anyone wants information on this piece, let me know and I can work out some details. I typically rough out a quick sketch and a few critical measurements and then start the construction. It might not be the most efficient way to do things, but it is how I have been working for years. A lot of it is in my head and I visualize things as I go, working out problems as I encounter them. I am not a Sketch-up expert at all, so it would probably be a scan of my rough sketch and an estimate of the wood you would need along with a basic cut list.
I would appreciate any feedback as well – positive or constructive. I am here to learn just as much as the next guy and if someone has thoughts on a better way or a different approach, then I would love to hear them and discuss them.
____________
The first part of any build (once I have an idea in mind), is to look at the lumber for grain orientation and cut the pieces to rough length – usually 20mm – 40mm longer than final dimension to account for any snipe as I dimension the stock. I like to use a jigsaw for this purpose as some boards are in the rough or I am cutting things down from longer boards and there could be tension released as the cut is made and a jigsaw’s blade is thin, reducing the risk of kickback if the stock closes up around the blade. If cutting from rough stock, I will often cut a few inches off the end of the board to see if there are any cracks or “checking” before cutting to length. This is an important step as a hidden crack can run several mm into a board’s length and if you do not account for it, then you might end up with a board that is too short for the part.
Hall Table Jigsaw
After the boards are cut to rough length, I will then mill them on the Jointer and Planer to get the faces flat and parallel. I always face joint my material until it is 80% flat on one face before running it through the planer. In my experience, I have not had luck buying wood from any supplier that is truly flat and so I do not skip this step. Jointing the face of a board to approximately 80% flat gives enough of a reference edge on the planer bed to ensure a parallel face when planed. I also position the board to joint and plane with the grain (usually in the direction of the pointed end of the figure) and I joint with the concave side pointing down (meaning the 4 corners of the board are on the jointer bed and the higher middle part of the board is up. After getting one face flat, I then run it through the planer to get the other side parallel and to the proper thickness. If I am removing a lot of material, I will flip the material after each pass or two to ensure material is coming off of both sides and is somewhat uniform – this can help minimize any movement of the wood after the initial milling. Also, I will typically let any material acclimate to my shop prior to using it as this also helps minimize movement.
The next video shows this process and also how I am going to deal with some material that is a little thinner than my final dimensions.
Hall Table Planing Jointing Stock
Once the material is jointed and planed, the next step in the process is to straight-line one side of each board. Some woodworkers will use a jointer for this to get one edge straight and 90 degrees to one face of the board. I think that a Festool Tracksaw is a better option – it is faster and in my opinion a safer way to accomplish this same task. In addition, it gives the user some flexibility to position the guide rail on the stock to maximize yield and to account for grain. I think that the TS75 saw is ideal for this purpose, especially when dealing with thicker hardwoods like 8/4 stock.
Hall Table Straightlining with TS75
Once one edge is straight and at 90 degrees to the face of the material, I will then rip the pieces to proper width and the Parallel Guides (PGs) ensure that each piece will be parallel to the opposite edge and the same width when ripping multiple parts. The PGs need to be calibrated to the saw you are using, but once set, they are extremely accurate. Once you are done, they pack up into a very small space. I started doing most of my cuts right on the top of the MFT/3, using the top as the spoiler board – I find this the easiest way to accomplish cutting and I do not have to worry about adding a different cut surface to my MFt/3. There is nothing wrong with the latter either. Personally I found it liberating to cut into my top and after the first few, it is no big deal. When using the extensions to the PGs (that allow for narrow rips), I will elevate the rail and extensions to allow for clearance of the U-channels. I also find that the bottom of the U is a perfect place to position a clamp – this helps secure the rail and PGs so that they do not more around the MFT/3 and it helps clamp the rail to the material you are cutting, helping to ensure a more accurate cut.
Hall Table Parallel Guides
After I cut the stretchers to width, I turned my attention to the top. I needed to straight line each side of the top before glue up to remove some defects in the edge and to ensure I had a good glue line. I am not concerned with parallel edges at this point, but do want to check for nice grain orientation and clean edges. The TS75 makes nice rips on the edges and after a couple of passes I was able to get a nice joint. I decided to use some Dominos to help align the top and minimize sanding I would have to do after the two pieces were glued together. Here is a quick video of the steps I took to mill the top and another video of using the Domino to cut the slots in the top along with the glue-up.
Hall Table Starting the Top
Hall Table Domino Top and Glue up
Once everything is ripped to width, it is time to cross-cut the pieces to size. Again, the MFT/3 comes into play with the fence, stop and guide rail. To ensure accurate 90 degree cuts, you have to square the fence to the guide rail. There is much discussion on the proper way to calibrate the MFT/3. Here is a quick video of how I do the process. The key for me is to use a square that I know is square – I use a sheet of plywood that I have cut to a tolerance of within .001 inches over 16 inches (more than enough for woodworking) and it allows for easy alignment of the fence to the rail at 90 degrees. I also talk about the end stop that supports the end of the fence to the MFT/3 profile and the order of how I clamp things to ensure the fence does not move. There are other techniques for achieving the same results, but this method has worked for me to quickly set up and accurately align everything on my MFT/3. One last step is to ensure that the rail just lies down on the tab of the front clamp assembly of the table – I used to move mine over a little one way or the other to get the tab in place. If yours does not line up, then you have probably over-tightened the top bolt that secures the rail to the back clamp. To fix it, loosen the nuts, adjust the rail square to the fence and tighten the lower nut. Double check you setting and then raise the fence. Tighten the upper nut, but when it starts to tighten, just give it a ¼ turn or so – you want it snug but over tightening will tweak the rail out of square again. You should be able to lower the rail with one finger and it should rest right on the tab with no side-to-side movement.
Here is a quick video of the calibration process I use:
Hall Table MFT3 Square set-up
After the MFT/3 is calibrated, I make the cross-cuts. To ease setting the guide rail to the proper depth, I set the work pieces on the table and span them across the width. I then raise the back of the rail up so that the rail lays flat across all of the pieces and clamp it in place. I then adjust the back of the rail so that it lays flat on the work and clamp that in place. I am then ready to make a measurement and set the stop for repetitive cuts. I usually will cut a piece of scrap to length to double check my setup before cutting my actual stock. It takes seconds for this step and if I need to tweak any settings I would rather do it on scrap than my actual material. Once set, I will cut one end of all the material to get one square edge to the sides I just ripped, I will then flip the material 180 degrees end over end and cut the stock to proper length.
Here is a quick video of cross-cutting the legs to length. Note that all of the cross-cuts for this Hall Table are done in the same manner for all of the components (front, rear and side stretchers; drawer runner assembly; drawer box assembly; top).
Hall Table Cutting Legs to Length
After all of the parts are ripped and cross-cut to size, it is time to turn to the joinery. I elected to use 6mm Dominos for most of the joinery on the legs and stretchers. I lay out the marks on the top of each leg and corresponding marks on the ends of each stretcher and then use the center line on the Domino to accurately align all of the cuts. I have used the cross-stops in certain applications and they also work well if you do not want to individually mark all of the pieces. I find it fast and accurate to just align the Domino to marks on the stock. I also used the tightest setting on the ends of the stretcher and the middle setting on the legs so that I could have a little room to align the parts. I want the top edge of all of the stretchers to be flush with the top of each leg and having some extra room to move the stretcher vertically aids in the process during glue-up.
Hall Table Cutting Domino Mortises in Legs and Stretchers
After I cut all of the joinery I like to do a dry fit to check the fit and make sure everything is square and lines up. Here is a quick video of how the table looks after the Dominos are cut and before I taper the legs or cut the drawer front.
Hall Table Dry Fit after Dominos
The next step in the process is to taper the legs. There are a lot of ways you can taper the legs ranging from using hand planes, a tapering jig on the table saw, cutting them on a bandsaw with a taper jig or freehand, using a jointer and/or a planer with a sled and of course, you can also use a Festool TS saw and guide rail. The last method is what I chose to use for this build and this video clip explains the set-up and shows the process that I used. I used clamping elements to secure the stock and to provide stops to prevent the stock from moving. It was also important to use the stop on the guide rail to help prevent kick-back as the saw entered the stock at the beginning of the cut. It worked well and I was pleased with the end result.
Hall Table Tapers
After the legs are tapered it is now time to cut out the drawer opening on the front stretcher. This is certainly something that is optional and some folks might prefer to exclude the drawer altogether. I wanted a drawer as I think it adds to the overall look and functionality of the piece. As a design element I thought it would be neat to have the front of the Hall Table Desk have continuous grain across the front stretcher so I elected to cut the drawer front out from the stretcher. Using my TS75 and jigsaw made the process easy and accurate. This video explains the set-up shows how this can be accomplished safely and accurately with a plunge saw and jigsaw. In regards to the set-up, I used my MFT/3, the flag stop to accurately plunge in the right spot and a quick clamp. Since I was not actually separating the piece it is OK to use the clamp on the right side of the stock to secure it as well as have the other end butted up against the stop. There is little danger of kick-back since I was not cutting the piece in half. The clamp was critical to ensure that I did not have the piece move after it was in position, especially since I flipped it over and made a plunge cut from each end. It is also important to use the stop supplied with the TS saw to prevent kick-back at the start of the plunge cut. I used the PGs again for the long plunge cuts to make sure I was cutting each side of the drawer parallel to the edge of the stretcher. Finally, I used a jigsaw to finish the cutout on each corner. Some light sanding on the drawer from and a little on the inside of drawer front opening on the stretcher was all that was left to complete this part of the project.
Hall Table Cutting Drawer Front
Once the drawer front is cut, the next step is to build the drawer runner assembly. I elected to build a channel to hold each side of the drawer and a front frame that would act as a stop for the drawer itself. The top and bottom of the assembly are connected to the sides with 6mm Dominos and the front of the assembly is connected to the stretcher with 4mm Dominos. These helped tie the front of the assembly to the stretcher and helped keep the top and bottom of the stretcher where the drawer was cut straight (I had ever so slight bowing when the tension was released when I cut out the drawer front and using 4mm Dominos helped align everything back during assembly). I cut 64 mortises for this assembly – probably overkill, but it was fast using the Domino.
Hall Table Drawer Runner Assembly
I like to finish sand each of the parts prior to final assembly and glue-up. I find it easier to sand the full side and edge of the parts on their own and then I only need to touch-up any dings or minor damage that happens during glue-up. My sander of choice for most furniture parts is the RS2E sander. This helps me ensure that I keep each piece flat and with the big pad, I am able to move quickly through the different grits. A Rotex or RO sander would also work fine for this process. I also used my DTS400 for edges and the inside of the drawer opening and the RO90 to smooth the legs after assembly and also for the drawer runner assembly. These three sanders were all I needed but in reality, I could have just used two of them – either the DTS or the RO90 would have been fine along with the RS2E.
Hall Table Sanding Explanation and RS2E
After everything is sanded, it is time to start the glue-up. I needed to do this in stages since there were a lot of Dominos and different assemblies. I started by gluing up the legs to the front and back stretcher as two assemblies. I glued the drawer runners as one assembly and then once dry I glued this assembly to the front stretcher and added the sides and then the back stretcher assembly. This next video is quick, in part because I messed up the entire assembly. One thing I found humorous was that the sticker from the Systainer of my beloved OF2200 somehow ended up on my back -- I think I brushed against the Systainer and did not realize it and the original video has me walking around proudly displaying it... [big grin].
Hall Table Front Assembly Glue Up
I made a huge mistake while gluing the front and back assembly that I did not discover until the next day [embarassed]. I accidentally reversed the front stretcher and glued the inside facing out. What to do…I did not want to have to reconstruct half of the Hall table again so I decided to use the plunge saw to cut the legs off of each stretcher and then recut the joints with the Domino and start the process again. Since I had cut slots in both the front and back stretcher, I was able to use Dominos to help align these two parts and I cut both legs off in one operation. It worked well and I was fortunate that I was able to recover from this mistake. It goes to show that you should not work when tired and I was doing the glue-up late at night after spending a full day in the shop.
Hall Table Disaster Averted
Before I did the final assembly, I did a dry fit to make sure that everything still lined up and also to help me determine how many clamps I would need and where any problem areas might be. There is a lot going on with this assembly and with it being pretty warm in my shop, I had to move quickly to make sure that the glue did not set up before I got everything positioned correctly. After it was glued up and checked for square I let it rest for several hours to dry.
Hall Table Final Glue-up
With the leg assembly of the Hall Table now complete, I focused my attention on constructing the drawer box itself. I wanted to use Domino construction for the drawer and I used Sipo Dominos for the front of the drawer to provide contrast to the soft Maple used in the box. I milled the pieces to the correct thickness and had ripped them all to width using the PGs and the same techniques that I used with the stretchers. I also wanted to have a solid wood bottom as opposed to plywood and I made this part the same way as I did the top. After crosscutting the drawer sides, front and back to the right lengths, I was able to use the Domino to complete the joinery. After the joinery is cut, I then route a groove to accept the drawer bottom. The front and both sides will have the groove and the back will be cut a little narrower so that the drawer bottom can slide into the groove after assembly. It will have room to expand and contract with seasonal changes and I find it is easier to finish the drawer without have the bottom installed. I also used the RO90 to sand the inside faces of the sides, front and back prior to glue up and I added tape to the inside corners to account for any glue squeeze out.
Hall Table Drawer Box Assembly
After the assembly was dry, I needed to cut the Dominos as close to flush as possible and then sand everything flush and final sand. I used a jigsaw for this along with the RO90 sander. Here is another mistake – you can see in the video that my jigsaw was not cutting exactly straight and so I actually cut into the sides of the drawer box [embarassed]. Another potentially catastrophic error! But, the RO90 and 60 Grit paper worked well to remove enough material on each side to eliminate the gouge caused by the jigsaw and smooth everything out nicely. After the sanding, I routed a rabbet on the drawer bottom to fit the grooves in the sides and front.
Hall Table Drawer Dominos Sanding and Fitting Bottom
After routing the rabbet on the drawer bottom it is time to fit the bottom in the drawer. There were two Dominos on the sides that protruded into the grooves and so I needed to use a chisel to remove a little material to get the drawer to fit properly.
Hall Table Fitting Drawer Bottom
With the drawer box complete, I can turn my attention to finishing the drawer assembly by cutting the drawer runner guides to the right length and sanding them to the right thickness. These guides are simply two pieces of walnut that are thicknesses to allow the drawer to slide freely in and out of the assembly while keeping it from twisting side to side in the process. I also talk about little spacers I made that are approximately the thickness of the TS75 blade kerf. I will use these spacers to help me align the drawer front to the drawer during final assembly.
Hall Table Spacers
With the drawer complete and the top cut to size, it is now time to profile the edge. I decided that since the top was 7/8 inch thick that it needed to be “lightened” a little to fit the overall design. I decided to use a 30 degree chamfer bit to help lighten the edge on the bottom, followed by a 9.5mm roundover bit on the top edge of the top. I think that the profile came out nice and compliments the table nicely. Of course you could use whatever edge treatment you like and that fits your taste. Here is a video of the profile and demonstration of how I cut it on the top. Again, I used my OF1010 router for all of these cuts.
Hall Table Top Edge Profile
With the table almost complete, I need to construct wooden buttons to secure the top to the stretchers. Thanks to a couple of FOG members for the tip to use Dominos in this process. These buttons are easy to construct and it is a great way to secure the top of your piece to the lower assembly.
Hall Table Buttons
After final sanding the top and legs to 400 Grit, I applied an oil/varnish finish. This really popped the grain and I was happy with how it came out. I used the shims I cut previously to center the drawer front in the opening and used some double-stick tape to secure the front to the front of the drawer box temporarily so that I could screw it together. I then added a pull.
Hall Table Completion
This hall table was a lot of fun to build and I hope that you enjoyed seeing the videos of the build. I also hope that you picked up a few tips in the process. This goes to show how versatile Festool tools can be and that you can accurately build furniture with a fairly basic set. I also learned a lot in the process:
1. I need to improve my videography skills – certainly not up to Paul, Peter or Dave’s level yet
2. Do not glue things together when you are tired
3. I really, really need to get a better jigsaw….I can almost hear a Trion calling my name…
4. Filming, editing and building things takes a lot of time and is a lot more work than it might appear
5. I say "okay" alot, among many other speech ticks....
I look forward to hearing your comments!
Scot
