wattage through vac outlet?

semenza

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Hi,

        O.K. I have been wondering about the 10amp limit on my CTs tool outlet for quite some time now. I have used my OF 1400 at full speed, and it seemes alright. What about the 75 saw?  Can that be run through a CT without turning it down?  Just curious - the 10amp limit seems odd considering some of the tools that are supposed to work with it.

    Seth Semenza

srs
 
  Seth,

No worries using any Festool tools with the vac. There is a very slight delay/ramp up so you won't overload the vac

  Bob
 
Bob Marino said:
  Seth,

No worries using any Festool tools with the vac. There is a very slight delay/ramp up so you won't overload the vac

  Bob

      I get that part taking care of the surge, but if the vac is pulling its full 10amps,and the tool is working at full load capacity pulling more than 10amps (OF1400, TS75, OF2000)- isn't this going to deprive the vac or the tool of enough power? It would be more than the tool outlet is supposed to supply and more than the total 20amps for the combo. Perhaps I am missing something?

Seth
 
The maximum wattage pulled by a motor is called the locked rotor amperage.  This is the start-up or also stalled amperage.  Unless you drive the router or saw into a material hard enough to stop the motor, you will never see the full load.  The soft start feature also helps prevent maximum current draw (and popped breakers).
 
Plus, the only way to "deprive" the tool is to have voltage drop caused by using an improperly sized extension cord or feed lines (read old house).  It the wires are all sized properly the breaker is going to supply all the current the tools ask for until it exceeds the breakers rating (which for a 20 amp breaker is higher than 20 amps)

So no, you don't have to turn down the vac unless you're popping a breaker.  I have run into the need to turn down the vac to avoid tripping the breaker...something you may run into when doing work in a residence and plugging into a partially loaded rec room circuit for instance. 
 
Hi,

      Thanks for clearing that up guys. I only popped a breaker once with my 55 CT combo running. At the time it was on a 15amp. It is on a different circuit now that is a 20amp.  BTW the protection circuitry in the saw works well. I had it over heat once and it shut itself down. I mostly wanted to make sure that my OF1400 or anything that I might add in future won't have any problems.
      Speaking of extension cords - I always go for a little over kill on the awg just to make sure. And , for Festool freaks, I came accross high vis green (think Festool green) cords with black plugs 8)  ! Not that we need X cords with the Festool set up very often.

Seth
 
This thread has me a bit curious...why the heck do they put different types of plugs on the tool end of the PlugIt cords? My saw and router is one type, jig saw another, etc.
I get tired of wading my way over to the vac and changing the plug.
In fact, I am considering installing an "portable" type outlet on the side of my MFT and run a plug from it to the vac, then plug the tools into the outlet.
Even though I only run one at a time, it would save my having to mess around with the cord at the vac end. Any thoughts about this?
Thanks.
 
Because the wiring is not rated at the higher amperage for the bigger tools on the jig saw cord., ie the cords are not the same.

Just use the thicker(ever so slightly) cord off the TS saw or router and it will work for all the tools.

It will not work the other way around you do not want a cord to small for the TS or router, it could possibly melt. You could take off that little nub, but I wouldn't. I just use the bigger cords on my boom arms and all the smaller cords are in a drawer somewhere.
 
The the Feedback circuits in the Festool's do not need the full current rating unless you are really, really pushing them hard. The OF 2200 routah should draw 18 Amps of current but it won't unless you are really hogging material.

If you do pop a breaker you can most likely turn the suction on the vac down so the tool can draw more. With tools like the OF2200 and TS75 could and should be plugged into a seperate circuit if you plan on working them hard

Dan Clermont
 
Steve_PA said:
This thread has me a bit curious...why the heck do they put different types of plugs on the tool end of the PlugIt cords? My saw and router is one type, jig saw another, etc.
I get tired of wading my way over to the vac and changing the plug.
In fact, I am considering installing an "portable" type outlet on the side of my MFT and run a plug from it to the vac, then plug the tools into the outlet.
Even though I only run one at a time, it would save my having to mess around with the cord at the vac end. Any thoughts about this?
Thanks.

There are two types of plug it cords, the lighter guage one has an extra "notch" on it, so it can't be used with the "heavier" tools, the cords that came with the "heavier" tools fit in the lighter tools aswell, so as long as you use the heavier cord, you don't have to change it.
I have a few tools that can take the lighter guage cord, but they were supplied with the thicker cord, so I haven't encountered the problem myself.

link to thread "plug it differences"

 
Well, duh me! I never even considered using the un-notched cord on the larger tools. Thanks for the tip!!
 
I leave one "heavy duty" Plug-It cord on my Boom Arm, and take another when I need to work and my CT 22 with Boom Arm isn't available.  I leave the rest of the plu-It cords neatly wrapped and tied in their "as delivered" condition.  I may have to pull one of them out soon as I have chaffed away some of the outer covering on the cord installed in my Boom Arm.

Dave R.
 
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