Wet sanding lead paint with linear sander (LS 130) and HEPA vacuum?

[rokahn]

I want to strip several layers of household lead paint off complex wood casing trim (douglas fir). I'm thinking of shaping an LS 130 sanding block to match trim profile. Lead abatement practice suggests wet sanding with a HEPA vacuum so I'd spray down the surface regularly with a spray bottle and connect the linear sander to a CT 26 HEPA vacuum. Is wet sanding necessary when this sander hooked up to a HEPA vac or can I do it dry?

Assuming wet sanding is recommended, I understand one removes the HEPA filter from the vacuum when running in wet mode which would defeat the purpose so I'd instead have to operate in the vacuum's dry mode even though I'm lightly spraying down the surface. Would the moisture I'm adding cause clogging either on the sanding pad or prematurely clog the vacuum bag?

I can't find instructions to customize sanding block on Festool's site (http://www.festoolusa.com/products/sanders/profiles/doityourself-kit-490780.html)--can someone point me to directions?
How do the adhesive holes line up with the block holes after one has altered the profile--it seems that the more creases one cuts into the sanding block, the closer together the sanding paper holes will be pulled...if they don't line up, the vacuum won't work?
How might I shape the sanding block precisely and how precise does it need to be?

I'm thinking of starting with Cristal P40 or P60, moving onto Cristal P80 or P120, and finishing with Rubin P150 or P180. Any suggestions?

Is it recommended to instead use an infra-red heater to safely strip the bulk of the paint and then use a sander to remove residue?

 

[Ken Nagrod]

From my RRP training and previous career in the autobody field, infrared is the preferred method of paint stripping as long as you don't get the paint so hot that it smokes,  That's when you start putting lead particles airborne.  The wet sanding you're referring to is not going to put any water into the filters of the vac so don't worry about the HEPA.  You can sand dry as well.  Just enclose the area well with disposable plastic sheeting and roll it up properly, bag it properly and dispose of with regular trash.  Tape your bags shut so they can't open and use heavy duty (high mil thickness) garbage bags.

 

[score0matic]

Ok is this a job for you or a contract job.
If it is for you wet will do.
If it is a contract job for abatement refer it to your abatement supervisor
if it is a contract job that you plan on using the same set up often you can get the method tested.
you will need to refer to the proper regs for test procedures.
but basically you use an air-sample monitor.  wearing  full PPE  use the method you want to have approved- log how long this method being used and run your test sampler. send the test cartrage to the monitoring lab they will determine whether the method meets Osha/EPA exposure limits. once it proves to be a "safe"method keep your documentation and IF OSHA or EPA comes to your door and wonders why you are running that power tool on a lead job show them your paper work all will be fine with no "fines" imposed.