What do you recommend for RO 150 feq polishing

[mcmillansprings]

Hello All Festoolies,
I am Going to be purchasing a RO150 and would like some recommendations on which polishing pads I should purchase.  I am going to be using it to polish the fine furniture I make with my Festools and maybe to polish my vehicles that need a good coat of wax.  Any and all Ideas would be great.  thanks MAC

 

[Corwin]

Well, for the wax (or rather instead of) can you say Zaino Brothers?  I have a black 2001 pickup that I gave the treatment to when new and again last year after someone commented how nice she looked.  Looks even better now.  Most are amazed that the truck is 6 years old.  Didn't have a rotex -- just did it by hand and, Wow!  But don't take my word for it, do a search on Zaino Brothers here...

Corwin

 

[Dan Clark]

MAC,

Zaino is to all other waxes and sealants as Festool is to all other tools.  It's the best!  http://www.zainostore.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Category_Code=Zaino 

For polishing, I recommend using a soft 6" Festool sanding pad (actually several) and these pads (sponges in Festool terminology):http://www.properautocare.com/ad712inhipa.html.  If you're not comfortable with something that big, try these:http://www.properautocare.com/hi612infopaa.html. 

Remember that prep is most of the battle.  Prep the surface that then apply the LSP (last step product). 

Regards,

Dan.

 

[Steven in Iowa]

Mac,
  I just got finished last week doing my Sequoia with a RO 150 and Zaino.  I've been using Zaino for about 5 years and it definitely is the Festool of the polishes.  My steps are as follows:
* Wash vehicle with Dawn dishwashing liquid
* Go over entire vehicle with Zaino Z-18 Claybar per directions to remove sap, tar, and other contaminants.
* After thouroughly following the above regiment, use Z-PC Fusion Swirl Remover with the Rotex on a 6" Lake Country Manufacturing white foam pad (about 4 for the speed), working the polish in multiple directions on a 2' square area at a time.
* Only after the above steps have been completed and with satisfactory results, polish with Z-2 Pro by hand, keep in mind that I can go over my Sequoia 3 times with about 2 ounces of this product.  Use sparingly, it is a polish not a wax and does not hide or remove paint imperfections.
* Spray the entire vehicle between coats of the Z-2 Pro, with Z-6 Gloss Enhancer.  The results are nothing short of fantastic.

 

[ejantny]

Zaino is a great treatment then take if further topping off with S100 or Souveran.

 

[Bob Marino]

My car is only 2 months old. Is the clay bar needed?

Bob

 

[Groggy]

You guys are funny. We are having a drought down here at the moment. I washed my cars windows last week and the car itself was last washed, well, um, "a while ago"  ;D

 

[Dan Clark]

Mac,
  I just got finished last week doing my Sequoia with a RO 150 and Zaino.  I've been using Zaino for about 5 years and it definitely is the Festool of the polishes.  My steps are as follows:
* Wash vehicle with Dawn dishwashing liquid
* Go over entire vehicle with Zaino Z-18 Claybar per directions to remove sap, tar, and other contaminants.
* After thouroughly following the above regiment, use Z-PC Fusion Swirl Remover with the Rotex on a 6" Lake Country Manufacturing white foam pad (about 4 for the speed), working the polish in multiple directions on a 2' square area at a time.
* Only after the above steps have been completed and with satisfactory results, polish with Z-2 Pro by hand, keep in mind that I can go over my Sequoia 3 times with about 2 ounces of this product.  Use sparingly, it is a polish not a wax and does not hide or remove paint imperfections.
* Spray the entire vehicle between coats of the Z-2 Pro, with Z-6 Gloss Enhancer.  The results are nothing short of fantastic.

Steven,

That sounds like my regimen except that I now have some Z-5 Pro that I want to try on my dark gray Audi.  I use Dawn before polishing, but like Zaino Z-7 car wash for regular washings.  The only non-Zaino product I use are some Menzerna polishes; they take longer to break down.    What Festool backing plate (pad) are you using?  Soft?

Regards,

Dan.

p.s., a year or so ago, I parked my 2002 Audi right next to a brand new Audi - same model, same color.    As I walked away, I noticed that my paint looked much better!  Gotta love it!  ;D

 

[Dan Clark]

My car is only 2 months old. Is the clay bar needed?

Bob

Bob,

The day you drive it off the lot, it needs a claybar treatment!  Here's a link that describes the problem:http://www.properautocare.com/usclaybartor.html

In fact, unless the dealer had your new car detailed by a high-end, professional detailer, they may have damaged the paint.  Since that will cost upwards of $200-$300, I doubt that happened

Here's more info on clay bars: http://www.autopia-carcare.com/inf-clay.html.  Please ignore the attractive young lady in the tiny-T describing the process.  ;D

A cheap and VERY GOOD clay lube is Zaino Z-7 car wash.    Add 1 oz of Z-7 to a 16oz spray bottle and fill remaining with water. 

Clay lube process:
1) Wash with Dawn.
2) Clay bar.
3) Quick wash again with Dawn to remove any remaining bits of clay, dirt, etc.
4) Polish
5) Apply sealant and/or wax.

Other tips:
- I've used several brands, but Zaino Z-18 Claybar is at least as good as the best and they come in a nice storage jar.  I just order them when I restock my Zaino products.  Make sure you keep them moist in their jar.

- Before polishing, wash with Dawn diswashing detergent.  For regular washings, use a good quality car wash like Zaino Z-7.

- Wash the car using a GOOD QUALITY sheepskin wash mitt like this one:http://www.properautocare.com/sheepwas.html.  (Rinse mitt throughly and let air dry after use.)

- Use at least two buckets for washing.  One with the soapy water and one with clean water for rinsing your mitt. 

- If you're REALLY anal-retentive (like me), use a foam gun like this to apply the car wash:http://www.superiorcarcare.net/foam-wash-gun.html.  I apply the car wash, scrub with my wool mitt, and rinse the mitt in TWO 5 gallon buckets (one on each side of the car). 

- Use a good quality micro-fiber drying towel to dry the car.  However, the best method is to use an electric, high-speed leaf blower.  That's fast and easy, and gets the water out of the cracks very well. 

- Use only good quality micro-fiber towels to remove polish from the finish.  Never cotton towels.

Regards,

Dan.

p.s. here are some pics...

Detailing tools and supplies:

My Lake Country Polishing Pads:

Toro 200 mph leaf blower for drying car.  Note the plugged-in extension cord and ear plugs.  Takes about 15 seconds start using it:

The end-result - my Audi A4 just after detailing.  Check out the reflection in the hood.

 

[Steven in Iowa]

Dan,
  You and I think alike, my auto shelf looks almost identical.  I have the standard Porter Cable 7336, but I think I like using the RO 150 better.  It has tons more power, is quieter and doesn't vibrate the heck out my wrists.  I got one of the Festool Polishing pads (Item #: 493914) and really like the pressure it applies.  I used to use Einszett Paint Polish in the green can, but both of my vehicles that I have now are in good shape so the Zaino Z-PC Fusion polish suffices.  Here's my toughest challenge to keep looking good.

 

[Dan Clark]

Steven,

Great job!.  I especially like the wheels and wheel wells.  Those smaller slots and the brakes must be a bugger!  I can't see it well, but it looks like you're keeping the under carriage looking nice too.

What did you use on the tires?.  They have a nice black satin glow and not the bright shine that that some people go for.    It looks like you used the same thing on the black bumper guards. 

FYI, I've had good luck with several OXO brushes:http://www.properautocare.com/featwasbrus.html andhttp://www.properautocare.com/oxolawabr.html.    I use the first on the lowest 3" of the sides and back and the second on the center of the roof of my wife's SUV where I can't reach. 

Also I use GritGuards in my rinse buckets:http://www.properautocare.com/madewabu.html.  Frankly, if I had to do it over, I've order the WBGG2 kit (two buckets and two grit guards).  About the same cost and less hassle.

Keep up the great work!

Regards,

Dan.

 

[Steven in Iowa]

I use the Zaino Z-16 Perfect Tire  Gloss with one of the foam throw away paint brushes.  I like the low sheen also, and yes I'm fanatic enough to wash underneath, but I use a lawn sprinkler.  Put one of the sweeping sprinklers under the front and pull it back towards the rear after a bit.  Living in Iowa with the salt, dictates cleaning if you want it to last.  Unbelievable how much gunk washes down when you use the sprinkler.  I learned about that when I hung around with some guys that did mud run racing.

 

[Dan Clark]

Steven,

Nice trick with the sprinkler.   And, great tip about the foam brushes.  I was using a special foam pad. They were expensive and a bit of a hassle to use.  Cheap throwaway brushes make mucho sense!

Regards,

Dan.

 

[Joe Jensen]

My car is only 2 months old. Is the clay bar needed?

Bob

Bob, the clay bar is a critical step and pretty easy.  A new car (unless it was transported in an enclosed trailer) has grime embedded.  GM trucks and SUVs are transported by rail and they have a surprising amount of iron in the paint.  I just took delivery of a new car two weeks ago and claying my car took about 30 min.  I'm a huge fan of Zaino and I've been using it for 7 years.  I have a slightly quicker prep.
1) Wash with Dawn dishsoap.  Dish soap is a pretty strong soap and it removes any wax.  BTW, if you use dish soap to wash a car with wax, you just removed the wax.
2) New car, or when the paint feels a little rough when wet.  Clay the car.  Instead of using soapy water with the clay bar, I use the Zaino detail spray.  I find that I don't have to rewash the car after the clay bar.  I just spray a small area with the detail spray, clay, and dry.
3) Z1 Zaino primer, apply a super thin coat, so thin you don't think it's there.  Too much will greatly increase the work in the next step.  This should take 15 min for the car and use maybe 1oz of product max
4) Don't wipe off the Z1, apply Z2 the same way. (Might be new product numbers, this is what I used to buy).  Let dry, in AZ that's 30 min, but some have to let it dry longer.  Zaino sells a catalyst to speed drying but I've never used it because I live in AZ.
5) Wipe off the Z2.  If you applied very little Z1 and Z2 this is easy and fast.  If you applied too much, it's harder.  Using the Z6 spray will help.
6) Repeat step 4  and 5.
7) Apply Z6, I find it is a dust repellent.  I've done tests on a dark blue car where I only applied to 1/2 the hood.  The car stayed dust free on the Z6 side for two days longer.

After the initial application, I use Z6 every time after a wash (dust repellent).  I reapply the Z2 again once or twice a year (no Z1).

Cars look like new...joe

 

[hgporter]

I just purchased a RO150EQ and have been contemplating using it to detail my vehicles. So this post has my attention.

I had my 1999 GMC Suburban "professionally" detailed about 6 months ago. The Detail Doctor sold me on a polymer sealant (I forget the brand) telling me I would not have to wax again. Pointing me to his 1986 Red Jeep saying he hadn't done anything other than wash I dry it for 18 months. It did have a pretty good shine although the paint was faded a little (when he bought it ), When he finished my Suburban, it looked great. A plastic water mug would not stay in place on the hood (not enough friction to keep it from beginning to slide).

My GMC is in need of a good detailing again. I am intrigued by this Zaino system, but don't know if I should apply it over the polymer sealant. To the readers of this forum, what do you know about the aftermarket sealants regarding longevity/renewal/waxing over them, etc?

 

[Bob Marino]

I just purchased a RO150EQ and have been contemplating using it to detail my vehicles. So this post has my attention.

I had my 1999 GMC Suburban "professionally" detailed about 6 months ago. The Detail Doctor sold me on a polymer sealant (I forget the brand) telling me I would not have to wax again. Pointing me to his 1986 Red Jeep saying he hadn't done anything other than wash I dry it for 18 months. It did have a pretty good shine although the paint was faded a little (when he bought it ), When he finished my Suburban, it looked great. A plastic water mug would not stay in place on the hood (not enough friction to keep it from beginning to slide).

My GMC is in need of a good detailing again. I am intrigued by this Zaino system, but don't know if I should apply it over the polymer sealant. To the readers of this forum, what do you know about the aftermarket sealants regarding longevity/renewal/waxing over them, etc?

Was that sealent a product called "Klasse"? I used that and thoughtg it poretty good, but I would bet you'd have to get that sealent off before using Zaino, but othyer should chime in here.

Bob

 

[Dan Clark]

Was that sealent a product called "Klasse"? I used that and thoughtg it poretty good, but I would bet you'd have to get that sealent off before using Zaino, but othyer should chime in here.

Bob

Bob,

Klasse is a good product, but I would never mix different brands of sealants.  Any good polish will quickly remove the sealant. 

Before I add a new layer of sealant, I go through the full detailing process - wash with Dawn, clay bar, rinse, dry, polish, and then seal.    The first time you clean, polish and seal your paint, it will take some time.  After the first detailing session, it goes quicker because your paint should be in pretty good shape.  You should be able to go through the entire process up to the sealing part in about 2-3 hours.   

For additional full-detailing sessions after the first (every 6 months or so), a good light polish should be sufficient to clean up any light spider webs or small defects.  For light polishing, Zaino Z-PC or Menzerna Final Polish II (FPII) will do nicely.

Regards,

Dan.

p.s., after routine washings (with Z-7), I use Z-6 to improve the shine.  Occasionally, I'll use Z-8 to add extra protection.

 

[Bob Marino]

  Dan, Joe,

I see Zaino has 2 new products  - Clear Seal and  All In one Cleaner!

Bob

 

[Joe Jensen]

Bob, when I started using the Zaino system they sold Z1 which was a primer, and then Z2 which was the sealant.  It now looks like Z1 is no longer necessary.  Here is what I would do.
1) Dawn dish soap wash
2) Clay bar with Z6 as a lubricant and wipe as you go.
3) Z2 Pro with accelerator as a initial coat
4) They used to recommend using Z6 between coats to make sure all resudue is removed
5) do two coats of Z2 pro.
6) Finish with Z6, or Z8  (my local Zaino dealer says Z8 only makes a difference with dark cars, I've never tried it).

I use the Z7 soap, love it, and the Z6 a ton.  I am still using the first bottles of Z1 and Z2 I purchased 7 years ago, but I've bought maybe 10 bottles of soap and 15 bottles of Z6...joe

 

[Dan Clark]

Bob,

I pretty much agree with Joe, with one caveat.  If you have a light car, Z2 Pro is the sealant.  If you have a dark car AND the paint is in great shape (no chips), then Z2 Pro is probably best.  With darker paint that has some chips in it, the Z5 Pro is the better alternative, IMO.

If your car is dark and has some paint chips (even very minor ones) that you can't buff out, Z2 Pro and other clear sealants/waxes will fill in the chips and will show up as little white spots.   Z5 Pro has some minor fillers in it so that when it fills in the chips, they show up as dark and are less noticable.

Regardless of whether you use Z2 Pro or Z5 Pro, a well prep'd surface (clay bar'd, polished, etc) with Zaino sealant applied will give you a shine you can't believe.

When applying Z2 Pro or Z5 Pro, add the "ZFX" accelerator that Joe mentions.   Here's a link:http://www.zainostore.com/Merchant2..._Code=ZFX&Category_Code=Zaino&Product_Count=5

Regards,

Dan.

p.s. A couple of years ago, immediately after detailing my Audi with Zaino, I stopped by a Toyota dealership to pick up a part for my wife's car.  I parked right under a bright parking lot light and jumped out.  A Toyota salesman standing there car asked if he could help me.  I said "No thanks, just picking up a part."  Then he eyed my shiny paint and blurted, "Wow, NICE paint!".  Then he got a funny look on his face and I could almost hear him thinking, "Hmmm... Maybe I shouldn't have said that."  Gotta love it!  ;D