What do you use for cabinet hardware layout?

builderbob

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I recently purchased the Mark Sommerfeld hardware layout jig...it was on sale for $50 from $70.  Upon receiving it, I discovered it's as big as I knew it would be.  I jumped on the web to look for other options and stumbled on a product by a company called Precision Casewerk.  It's a cool device that will do the obvious handle/knob layout to what seems like precision from the video on their site.  It also performs other functions with some add on kits.  Check it out...it's a neat device...a bit pricey for hardware layout, but c'mon...precision is priceless!

I'm curious what you all use for this type of task?

Bob
 
speed square, pencil, and tape. I have used some cheap jigs of friends, but they did not work for me most of the time. If any one has a good recommendation I am all ears.
 
Precision Casewerk Video

After watching this video I might have to get one of these it would save me hours of time.

Especially on the jobs that there are 6 different sizes of hardware.

I wish they made this as a marking template rather than a center bit bearing.
 
I also have had several different types of jigs over the years. I did not like any of them & always went back to measuring each one.

I looked at the True Position Jigs at a dealer last week. They are well made, small & light weight.
I believe it will work great on door pulls. Once it is set up, there is no more measuring.
For pulls on drawers you still have to locate the center of each pull. Had it not been for that issue, I would have brought one home.
 
Chris, I would probably assume that they tried to keep this thing compact...hence not having long extrusions to the sides to be able to center up automatically.  I agree that it would be nice, but I'm really considering this jig.  Mishle, I understand what you mean about only having the 5mm guided holes.  I often find with atypical hardware that I need holes other than 5mm or 3/16".  I wonder if a vix bit would fit into a 5mm hole in order to serve as a small marking hole instead of a larger hole that would be impossible to drill on top of if a different size hole is necessary!  I'm gonna run into the shop and see!

Bob
 
I just checked and the vix bit that is closest but slightly too large is 7/64". Another thought is to use the stop collar like in the video and only graze the surface to make a mark. I'm very close to pulling the trigger on this purchase. I don't know of anybody around me that sells it, so I'm going to have to purchase online, but I will go off of Chris' comment that it seemed of good quality. I'm definitely not going for the full package, but it is a nice setup...perhaps I'll eventually need the whole kit and caboodle! 

Bob
 
I measure drawer fronts and usually knock up a corner jig for doors and flip flop it. Usually just a bit bulky to save. If I did three box set jobs a week I'd look at a full timer jig.
 
builderbob said:
I just checked and the vix bit that is closest but slightly too large is 7/64". Another thought is to use the stop collar like in the video and only graze the surface to make a mark. I'm very close to pulling the trigger on this purchase. I don't know of anybody around me that sells it, so I'm going to have to purchase online, but I will go off of Chris' comment that it seemed of good quality. I'm definitely not going for the full package, but it is a nice setup...perhaps I'll eventually need the whole kit and caboodle! 

Bob

The jig is very high quality.

 
Went online with Precision Casewerk and to me getting a full setup (Hinge, slide,drawer,shelf ) I have the Sommerfield Hinge Guide and have been using it quite often with great success. I usually make a layout guide for my drawer handles and shelf pins out of 1/4" Masonite. Most times this works for me just fine
One day maybe I will go all out for a LR 32 setup
 
Sal, how do you like the Sommerfeld hardware layout jig?  aside from the size, it seems like it'll be good.  The only thing I didn't consider is that the stop is on one side and to do doors, I'd have to move it to the other side to drill for the other hinge swing.  It's not that I'm too lazy to do that, but I purchased it to improve my efficiency. 

As far as the LR-32 is concerned, I use that all the time when drilling pin holes for cabinets in the shop.  I got so tired of using the shelf pin jigs with a drill...I would always get tear out or depression marks from the Vix part of the bit.  I still use that on site if i have to add holes to space that does not have any, but I cringe when I have to use it.  I highly recommend the LR-32 if you can see the use for it.  Most of my cabinets are FF and not Euro style, so I don't use the LR-32 system to it's potential, but if I ever do, I'm set up for it!

Bob
 
The Euro jig seems good too...for $50, you can't go wrong...definitely looks smaller than the sommerfeld.  I'm gonna give the Sommerfeld a shot and see how I like it.  I think one of the bigger things I don't like is the bushings don't sit to the drawer face, they're held away on the movable face and I see some potential issues with slight misalignments.  If I hate it, I'll see how easily it breaks!!!  [eek]

Bob
 
Bob  I have their Hinge Boring Jig that I have used for some time now, I buy my hinges from them so this is a good deal for me with my cabinets. I have wanted to but their Easy Mark Hardware Jig but never got around to it. Maybe one day in the meantime I use my Masonite jigs for everything else.
I get the tear out with the Vix bits when I move to fast and am rushing things.
Don't know if this helped or not.
I am a small one man shop that gets most if not all of my work thru word of mouth from prior customers.
The big thing for me is the swap to Festool and the time the TS 55 alone has saved me on my builds
 
Sal, I am the same as you...one man show!  I do a lot of general remodeling, but my passion is the custom side of things along with kitchen installs as well!  I purchased the hinge boring jig at the same time as the hardware drilling jig.  I like the hinge jig a lot...that will see plenty of use!

Bob
 
i take 5 paces backwards and turn and throw a dart at the target then that is where i drill my hole
 
I like your method Shoe!  Sounds more efficient than my methods...heading to Dicks sporting goods right now...pickin up some darts!
 
builderbob said:
The Euro jig seems good too...for $50, you can't go wrong...definitely looks smaller than the sommerfeld.  I'm gonna give the Sommerfeld a shot and see how I like it.  I think one of the bigger things I don't like is the bushings don't sit to the drawer face, they're held away on the movable face and I see some potential issues with slight misalignments.  If I hate it, I'll see how easily it breaks!!!  [eek]

Bob
I looked at the Sommerfeld.It is limited to handles with 3"-4.5" OC.
The Eurohandleit lets you adjust the OC at whatever size you want.(The max is 12"OC i think)Really nice when you are dealling with odd size or metric.
When i use it,i start drilling and then remove the jig and finish the drilling.Like that i don't wear out the bushing.
I have read somewhere that you can get replacement bushing but never seen them.
 
I use the one made by Hettich. Its expensive but great quality and very percise. I wouldn't think of using anything else.
 
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