What Main blade with a scoring saw???

bobreed2010

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Mar 16, 2017
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I take delivery of a new Hammer K3 next month.
I am looking forward to the scoring saw as much of my work is making frameless kitchen cabinets out of 3/4" plywood.
I use mostly maple and cherry veneer core plywood.
I currently use a Forrest 80t Duraline blade on my General 350 to get minimum tear out.
Now that the K3 has a scoring saw, what main blade will work best for me and at the same time minimize blade changes?
Thanks, Bob
 
If you really want to go all out, check out the new diamond blade. Apparently it's meant to replace everything from a rip to fine finish. Most demos don't even use a scoring blade.
 
I like the FS tool XL 4000 triple chip grind. I have been using these for over 5 years and I am happy with the cut quality and they last a long time.
 
If your current blade is working good just have it rebored and pinholes added, typical around $30.00 to have it done by a saw sharpening service. For 3/4" material it will work fine. The Felder Silent Power blades are all good IMHO and you should have got a few included with your saw along with the scoring blade. 80mm scoring blades are pain to find except from Felder.

John
 
egmiii said:
If you really want to go all out, check out the new diamond blade. Apparently it's meant to replace everything from a rip to fine finish. Most demos don't even use a scoring blade.

Do you mind sharing who manufactures it?  Googling returns too many different things.
 
bobreed2010 said:
http://us.feldershop.com/en-US/en-US/Sawing/Saw-Blades/
The diamond blade is $490...easy to spot that.

Do you mind sharing who manufactures it?  Googling returns too many different things.
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Thanx for the video.
Too many hoops to jump through with that blade, too many offer quality diamond blades out there without the BS attached to that blade. The bottom line is that you can have 3 blades in full shop rotation for the cost of the one blade. Diamond blades are great in a high production environment but almost useless for a small shop or hobbiest IMHO.

John
 
What BS do you refer too? There's nothing in that video that isn't standard blade care or standard panel saw operation, ie you don't have to do anything differnt with that blade providing you are doing things right to begin with.
 
kcufstoidi said:
Thanx for the video.
Too many hoops to jump through with that blade, too many offer quality diamond blades out there without the BS attached to that blade. The bottom line is that you can have 3 blades in full shop rotation for the cost of the one blade. Diamond blades are great in a high production environment but almost useless for a small shop or hobbiest IMHO.

John

"Too many offer quality diamond blades"... Are you sure? That blade is made for Felder by either Leitz or Leuco. Would you please provide a link to another diamond blade for woodworking. I'd appreciate it since I'm considering the Felder and would like to compare my options.
 
LooseSox said:
What BS do you refer too? There's nothing in that video that isn't standard blade care or standard panel saw operation, ie you don't have to do anything differnt with that blade providing you are doing things right to begin with.

You did watch the video and I assume you operate a slider. The blade is not made by Leitz and is most likely a Leuco judging by its tooth design or some other european company hard to tell. Having to change blade height is typically unneeded with a guarded Felder slider, changing fence position for crosscutting is totally unnecessary with a conventional carbide blade with good tooth and gullet design which indicates its probably a difficult blade to push material through. A $400.00 diamond blade will be a the low end of a quality with the shortcoming of having minimal diamond content and a shorter lifespan. A properly setup rip fence used as a bump stop for the slider should not produce the results shown in the video. That's what I call BS, I don't know what you consider it.

John
 
kcufstoidi said:
LooseSox said:
What BS do you refer too? There's nothing in that video that isn't standard blade care or standard panel saw operation, ie you don't have to do anything differnt with that blade providing you are doing things right to begin with.

changing fence position for crosscutting is totally unnecessary with a conventional carbide blade with good tooth and gullet design which indicates its probably a difficult blade to push material through

I had a feeling that's what you might have been referring to. When using the rip fence to set the size for the sliding table, I've always backed the fence back before the start of the blade, that's just standard safety practice regardless of the quality of the blade being used. Not sure what its like in your neck of the woods, but do otherwise in Oz with a safety auditor on site and you'll cop a fair talking to.
 
Backing off the fence is a good practice but IMHO very material dependent with size and length of cut a big consideration. Proper fence alignment to the blade is also crucial. I typically don't work with the rip fence and mainly make all my cuts referenced from the slider side. I really can't see that blade being a good purchase for anyone in a production environment, I perceive it as another attempt by Felder to extract money from the pockets of the unknowing, that believe they are getting a premium product, for a deal price, when it really is mediocre blade selling for what its worth compared to a well designed diamond blade.

John
 
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