What oil should I use on my new Mahogany deck?

[Jaybolishes]

I just built a porch with a roof over it and I was wondering what natural oil finish you guys would recommend?  It's on the north side, under cover so it won't ever see any sun.  I'm using 1x4 mahogany and I'm fastening it using a hidden fastener kit.  Would you oil all four sides? Should I think about using an oil with a stain?  I think the wood with clear oil would be nice enough, but maybe there's a stain that would embellish the Mahogany coloring in a better way?  First time using this wood so any advice is appreciated.

 

[JBag09]

Everytime I make Mahogany benches for outdoors, I use Cabot's Australian Timber Oil, Mahogany Flame. It's pretty much a natural color on Mahogany. It never hurts to do all four sides.

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[Stephen B]

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Everytime I make Mahogany benches for outdoors, I use Cabot's Australian Timber Oil, Mahogany Flame. It's pretty much a natural color on Mahogany. It never hurts to do all four sides.

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[member=39086]JBag09[/member]
As you seem to be able to get Cabots products in the US, can you also get their 'higher quality' Feast & Watson products?

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[member=14853]Jaybolishes[/member]
On decks, I tend to use natural, rather than tinted oils. I find tinted products can overcome the natural tones of the decking timbers; particularly Merbu.

Deck timbers that have high tannin content should be installed and then left for around a month for the tannin to bleed out. Rain helps. Then either chemically clean or lightly sand and oil. If using the Cabots oil suggested by Bag09 I would use the oil rather than water based product. If you can find Feast & Watson, it's water based but superior both in application and durability  than either the water or oil based Cabots.

Coating the edges can be achieved either with a narrow brush, or some mechanical deck oil applicators have a timber edge attachment.

 

[Scott in San Diego]

Sherwin Williams SuperDeck Exterior Oil-Based Transparent Stain.  I would use the clear finish.  For my take, mahogany is too pretty on its own to add color.  Follow the directions...wipe off the excess so it doesn't puddle and no second coat...otherwise you will have an uncured tacky mess.

 

[Cheese]

I tend to recommend Surfix outdoors oil because I’ve had good luck with the stuff. I’ve used it on teak tables and teak door mats and with 24-7 exposure to sun, rain, freezing temperatures and snow, it’s the best I’ve found. Better than anything else, including Watco products and those specifically targeted for boating enthusiasts.

A sanding and recoating needs to be done once a year if totally exposed to weather, however, if the area is protected, I’d suspect a reapplication of the oil would only be needed every 3-4 years and the most important aspect is that the original color and texture of the mahogany will be preserved.  [cool]

Here's a picture of a couple of teak door mats I made. The grey one is after 1 year of service completely exposed to weather. The other is after sanding & re-oiling with Surfix Outdoors.

 

[Steven Owen]

Don’t use Sikkens Cetol anymore.  It’s gone downhill and is nowhere near the quality it was 10-15 years ago.

 

[Ptk16]

I have had great results with Cutek extreme