What would you do if you cut one panel 1/16 short?

Grasshopper

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..So I am working on assembling my cabinet boxes today (a 48" base cabinet and a 24" base cabinet).  All the sides and backs are dead on 34 1/2"….except one.

I wasn't paying attention, and I cut the back for the 48" cabinet with the "keeper" side to the right side of my ts55, so it is basically off the kerf of the blade.  I used veneer edge banding on one side of the short panel, so the "shortness" is now around 1/16".

Should I:

A-  Edge band the top side as well, bringing the gap to around 1/32" and call that good enough

B- spend another $65 and get a new 4x8 sheet of birch ply and cut a new back

C- reference from the bottom of cabinet sides and back (so bottom is flush) and shim the top if needed (top will be a granite slab)

D- reference from the top of the cabinet sides and back (so top is flush) and shim the bottom if needed (I assume shims will be needed on the bottom even if the boxes were bang on due to leveling for the floor)

E- take a kerf width off the remaining sides and back to bring all pieces to exact same height.

I wanted to see if either 1/16", or 1/32" off on one back would bother y'all, and what you'd do to remedy.

I'd love you feedback here. Thanks in advance.
 
You say the back panel is 1/16th short.
Is that ever going to be seen? Back against a wall or in center of room?
Tinker
 
Tinker,

It is the back for an island.  So I suppose, it is sort of in the middle of the room, though it will be concealed by the slab, and a 24" cabinet centered behind the 48" base (so 12" from either side will be visible, if you look under the slab, and pull out stools, etc.).

See picture:

[attachimg=1]

Tinker said:
You say the back panel is 1/16th short.
Is that ever going to be seen? Back against a wall or in center of room?
Tinker
 

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Yeah, well it doesn't seem to matter if you leave the gap at the top or the bottom. The bottom is likely going to need to be shimmed to the unlevel floor anyways, and the top will be "virtually" unseen. I gotta believe you'll need some type of trimming at the base anyways, so I'd opt for that as the edge to be cheated, and let trim cover it. You're not likely to be able to reuse this size panel in any of the other components not yet cut, right?  If that's possible, ideally take it apart and fix it right. But nor at the cost of scrapping almost 1/2 a sheet of plywood that you won't otherwise use up.
Jim
 
Thanks for the reply.

Not sure why this little gap bothers me so much.  Guess it being my first project, I want it to be perfect.

referencing off the top so I can shim the bottom (and hide with trim) makes sense, as I'd probably have to shim the bottom to level anyway.
(i forgot to add, the urgency in figuring this out is laying out my dados for the bottom shelf.  If i reference off the top or bottom, the dado placement will change 1/16".  Once I know which to do, shim the top, shim from the bottom, or get new stock, I can finish what I started)

To your other question, I have no other use for this panel.  You had mentioned taking it apart and fixing it right.  Can you clarify (my panels aren't assembled yet).

I'm all ears for the "right" way to approach this.

jbair said:
Yeah, well it doesn't seem to matter if you leave the gap at the top or the bottom. The bottom is likely going to need to be shimmed to the unlevel floor anyways, and the top will be "virtually" unseen. I gotta believe you'll need some type of trimming at the base anyways, so I'd opt for that as the edge to be cheated, and let trim cover it. You're not likely to be able to reuse this size panel in any of the other components not yet cut, right?  If that's possible, ideally take it apart and fix it right. But nor at the cost of scrapping almost 1/2 a sheet of plywood that you won't otherwise use up.
Jim
 
I may end up doing a small molding around the top either way (I am adding moulding around the top of the rest of the kitchen cabinets).

Just curious which is the preferred to shim, top or bottom

Birdhunter said:
Would a small molding around the top work?
 
Great idea!  I suppose I never thought about stacking the edge banding.  Why not, it's wood, and it is glue.  Just adding ply's :)

I edge banded the bottom, and just added two layers on top.  We are now sitting at exactly 34 1/2".

I'm anxious for the glue to cool so I can hit the two layers with my MFK700. 

hopper said:
Option A: put two layers of edgebanding on the top
 
Great solution, now you can go to sleep. LOL!  The reference to "take it apart and fix it right" was simply generic.  Whenever I run into a situation where something isn't sitting right to me, rather than pressing on and trying to overlook the problem, no matter how far along I am, I just stop, take it apart and fix it right. Or Else!!!! I never "don't see it" when I know it's there. Unfortunately my abilities don't quite measure up to my expectations, so I see a lot of sh&t wrong in my completed projects. HaHa .
Jim
 
Hello again
I would hope to see some sort of base covering the bottom of the casework and columns on your island. The base would match the rest of the kitchen for a finished look all the way around. Flush the panel to the top of the casework and your 1/16 will never be seen with the base.

any pictures yet

 
Id cut a thin strip of wood and glue/ nail it to one sidde of the ply and put it on the bottem of the cab. No one would even know its there
 
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