What's the largest chamfer bit you'd use in a 1010 router?

[nms]

I need to pick up a large chamfer bit and these are looking like my best options.

Lee Valley 1 5/8" Chamfer Bit – 8mm shank - 18J30.62

Freud 1-3/4″ Chamfer - 1/4" shank - 40-106

The Lee Valley bit I wouldn't worry about at all with the slightly smaller size and 8mm shank.

The Freud is larger than anything Whitseside or Lee Valley offer in a 1/4" shank. Is the size anything to worry about in regard to performance compromise? If not then obviously it's the more versatile bit since I can just as easily cut the same chamfer size of the Lee Valley. Do I need to worry about making multiple passes at different heights on softwood lumber or just go slowly? Any RPM recommendations?

I'm mostly cutting softwood lumber, with the occasional baltic birch.

Here's how the max chamfer cuts compare on 3/4" stock:

 

[lwoirhaye]

I think the most I've chamfered off in one pass is about a 3/8" wide chamfer.

I wouldn't worry about running either bit in the router but taking the whole depth in one pass seems like a lot.

 

[nms]

taking the whole depth in one pass seems like a lot.

I usually use a 1/2" roundover for eased edges, which takes off considerably less material. 2 passes should be enough for these in softwood I'm thinking, though I'm sure I'll get a sense quickly when I put metal to wood.

 

[ScotF]

That is a pretty big bit, so you will have to slow your rpm down and i would take a few passes to reduce strain on bit and motor of the router and to get a cleaner cut. My preference would be the 8mm shank bit if the size of the cut will work.

 

[ear3]

The 1010 will handle it just fine -- since it's a bearing guided bit you are only cutting with at most half of the diameter.  Slow down speed to 2 (you may want to push it up to 3 or down to 1 depending upon how it acts during the first cut), and take it in a few passes.  Use a minimal finishing cut on the last pass.

 

[nms]

Thinking a bit more on this..

If I want to do large chamfers I can think of no reason I shouldn't just use my TS55 with it all clamped down on an MFT.
One pass, less noise, less time, less dust filling my vac.

I have around 100ft of edging to do.

 

[ScotF]

Thinking a bit more on this..

If I want to do large chamfers I can think of no reason I shouldn't just use my TS55 with it all clamped down on an MFT.
One pass, less noise, less time, less dust filling my vac.

I have around 100ft of edging to do.

That can work, but depending on what you are doing the router might be faster - no fuss with the bearing and the stops can easily be set to give you your first pass and finish pass. The saw will require clamping and you can get burn marks that might need cleaned up afterward. Plenty of ways to do this, but I personally think the router and bit is a better way to go and less prone to error.

 

[tjbnwi]

Easy to do this on the MFT.

Tom

 

[Cheese]

My thoughts on this is that if the chamfer/bevel is narrower than 1/2", the router may be easier, while if it is wider than 1/2", I'd definitely try using the track saw first. I also feel the track saw will be more accurate in maintaining a bevel that is straight.

 

[nms]

Easy to do this on the MFT.

Yes, and I'm just doing 45's, so it'll be easy as laying the piece flat and clamping the track to it.

The saw will require clamping

1000%. Probably around 15 seconds to line up the rail and quick clamp on an MFT though.

and you can get burn marks that might need cleaned up afterward.

I never get burning at all with my TS55, just perfect clean cuts. It's definitely been my favorite tool purchase to date.

A router would be the way to go with smaller pieces that can't be clamped to a track without fuss (additional support, double sided tape).

 

[Birdhunter]

I’ve seen a lot of threads with sad stories of people trying to make accurate angled/beveled cuts with a tracked TS. How about taking a roughing cut with the track saw and a finish cut with your router?

 

[nms]

I’ve seen a lot of threads with sad stories of people trying to make accurate angled/beveled cuts with a tracked TS. How about taking a roughing cut with the track saw and a finish cut with your router?

It's been smooth sailing for me and I end up with edges like this, so long as the rail is clamped well, sharp blade, and making sure to keep the base from lifting at all.

View attachment 1

 

[tjbnwi]

I’ve seen a lot of threads with sad stories of people trying to make accurate angled/beveled cuts with a tracked TS. How about taking a roughing cut with the track saw and a finish cut with your router?

I've never had an issue making bevel cuts with the TS. I've read the stories, I am bewildered by the statements.

Beveled oak valance.

Tom

 

[#Tee]

theres a time a place for every tool. im not going to throw a 4x8 sheet of ply on the mft for a bevel cut lol. those bits you posted are fine, just get the feel for how much each pass you can do without bogging the router down or burning up the material.