Which track saw to purchase 55 or 75

[Craig1961]

All
Good morning i hope this finds you well. I have finally made the decision to purchase a tracksaw. I am a hobbyist at best at best at this stage in my journey; however at my age i am attempting to purchase good tools one time. I have researched a lot and read some older posts/reviews and am looking for thoughts from more experienced folks than myself.

At this time i see the tool being used for breaking down sheet goods etc. I have a TS, Jointer and planer that i can use for milling lumber. That being said who knows what the future holds. I may find a situation where i would want to straight line but some 8/4 or thicker hard wood away from my shop. I will review them both in person more thoroughly to determine if the weight may be an issue. At this time i do not see that being an issue for me.

I also want to have the ability to cut 8’ runs of plywood. I have heard mixed reviews on the connector system with the festool track. Both units that i am looking at come with one track: therefore, i think i will want to purchase an extension to use with track for the 8’ runs.

Thank you all in advance for your comments.

Craig

 

[waho6o9]

I would purchase the 75 with an extra Festool Panther blade for ripping hard wood and a 3000  track
for cutting sheet goods even if you purchase the 55 track saw.

If possible see if you can exchange your rail for a longer one or one with holes in it for adjustable shelving LR 32

I have both saws and use the 75 to cut 3 sheets of plywood at a time. Nice time saver

 

[ScotF]

The connectors is a non issue with the new TSO branded connectors. However, having a 3000 rail is very convenient. I own and use all the track saws and also I have a Mafell MT55.

The TS75 was my first tracksaw and was my only saw for years, but I work mostly in solid wood. However, sheet goods have become more common in my work these days and a 55 saw excels at sheet goods. It will cut surfaced 8/4 fine with the right blade.

If you are using a regular table saw, then I would recommend a 55 size saw. The Festool is a great saw and I have never had issues with it. The Mafell has more power and can work on both track systems so another option you might want to consider in a 55 size. It is about the same price with current Mafell sales pricing too. It does not have the Plug-it cord, though and no diving knife ( which may or may not be important to you).

Have you considered the cordless TSC? That might be the best option...plenty of power and flexibility to work anywhere. It is a great saw and probably my favorite Festool saw. If you are going for a corded version, there are still some Emerald versions and those have an extra blade included which is worth it or like I said, check out the Mafell....size of a 55 and power of the TS75.

 

[Dove_Tail]

For what you plan to do, the TX 55 is the right saw to buy.  This saw will cut 3/4 plywood and solid easily.  I am currently working on an 8/4 walnut top and did straight line rips with a 24-tooth rip blade with my 55.  It does fine if you take your time.

If I were to buy new again, I would think about the 75 as it's not that much more and I occasionally need more power than the 55 provides.  Keep in mind that blades for the 75 will cost more than the 55 blades.  But you need to buy based on what you plan to build, not what you "may" build.

For rails, I prefer the 3000 over joining two short rails.  There are good aftermarket alignment jigs, like Betterly, etc.  But that's an extra expense and takes time to stop and join the rails.

As Waho stated, try to buy a holey rail to give yourself that flexibility later.  it doesn't cost any more and opens up possibilities.

 

[Birdhunter]

I use a TS55 for a lot of tasks. I also am very fit for being mid70s. That said, I pick up the 55, cut, lay it down, pick it up, cut, lay it down, etc. The difference in weight between the 55 and 75 becomes significant over the course of a day. I cut 4 quarter hardwood with the 55. As long as I don’t bull the saw through the cut, the 55 does fine. I do not rip hardwood with the 55. I use my SawStop Industrial for that task. I would think twice about the 75. Its a beautiful machine, but a beast.

I’ve never seen the Mafell saw. I do own the Mafell DDF40 Doweler. It is a superbly designed and built tool. If the saw is as good, I’d consider it. The Mafell dealer, Timberwolf, has been most helpful as I went through the learning curve on the Doweler.

 

[Thompmd]

I'm just a few months into my Festool journey so I certainly don't have the expertise a lot of guys here have!! I too am a hobbyist and work mostly with live edge, kiln dried 2-2.5" hardwood slabs.

I bought a TS75 and 2 1400 tracks/connectors. If I had it to do over I would get 1 1400 and one larger track(if space allows you to do so).

I don't remember using mine for any sheets yet so no experience there.

I also had an issue due to my own inexperience cutting a 2 1/2" slab and the blade I was using had too high of a tooth count so I did as suggested here and purchased a Festool 18 tooth blade and it works great.

People here have been a fantastic resource for myself so my best advice is to take advantage of that.

 

[altiplano]

Neither.

MT55 all the way.

 

[ryanjg117]

The TS55 was my first Festool purchase many moons ago and, with exception to the OF1400 and ETS150, probably gets the most use. I have a TS75 but find that I use it sparingly as I'm pretty infrequently needing more than 2" depth of cut. Also, the TS55 is lighter with a smaller footprint, which you'll appreciate even if you're never working mobile. As for power, it's never been an issue so long as you use the right blade. And, really, if it ever does bog down, just take two passes.

Like many, I went with a combination of shorter tracks and agree there's no replacing a long 3000 track. The TSO connectors do make joining multiple tracks a much better experience than Festool's own connectors, which are overpriced and have fasteners that can be easily stripped. But it really depends on your workspace. For me, pivoting a 3000 track in a two-garage shop is like watching an Olympic figure skating event -- you're just waiting for that moment where it all falls apart and someone takes a dive.

 

[TXFIVEO]

TS75 for sure.  More power and better depth of cut.  This is one of those no brainers for me.  The TS75 is only slightly heavier but provides significantly more power and greater depth of cut. 

 

[Jeff Zanin]

I am also a hobbiest and struggled with the same question years ago.  I ended up buying the TS-75 on the basis that I had a couple of doors to trim and in general that the bigger saw could do everything the smaller saw could do, but not vice-versa.

I've been happy with the TS-75 which I use mostly in the shop.  But I usually do the initial breakdown of sheet goods outside, and while the TS-75 works fine for that (using the 3000mm rail) it is way more than what is needed and a bit awkward to bring the saw and vacuum out for what is usually a few cuts.

So when the TSC-55 (cordless) came out I bought that as well.  It is perfectly adequate for sheet goods and because it has a (very small) dust bag I can use it without a vacuum for many purposes. 

It is great to have both but likely if the TSC-55 had been available and if I knew then what I know now I would be inclined to forego the TS-75 and just get the TSC-55.

 

[jeh]

The weight of the TS75 makes it a no go for me. I had one and sold it. The fatigue of using it throughout the workday did not offset the value of deeper cuts. I ended up flipping over to Mafell's version which fits in between the TS55 and TS75 in terms of power.

 

[PaulH99]

I have the TS55, the FS1400 Track that was included with the purchase, and an FS1900 Track.

* I'm not cutting thick hardwood planks, so the TS75 was a bit overkill for my needs
* The 1400 track will allow you to cut across 4' sheet goods.
* The 1900 track will allow you to cut down 5' square baltic birch
* The two of them together with TSO connectors is 3300, which can be used to cut 8' sheet goods very easily.

My workshop is in my basement. It's nearly impossible to get 4x8 sheets of anything down there, so I tend to break things down in my driveway. Slide it out of my truck on to a pair of saw horses with blue foam on top, and off we go!

 

[jeffinsgf]

The obvious answer is split the difference and get the 65.

Oh...wait...they killed it 15 years ago.  [scared] [big grin]

I don't know which of the two available today I would pick. 55 seems too little and the 75 seems too big. Faced with the decision, I would take some representative samples of the thickest material you think you might cut to a stocking dealer and see if the 55 is up to the job. If not, the answer is easier.

 

[Michael Kellough]

About the AT-65, the TS-75 cuts 10mm deeper yet weighs the same. Can’t complain about that!
On the other hand, the 65 needs less runway than the TS-55 because like the ATF-55 it has a stamped steel shoe which can be used to guide the saw on the track even when the gibs are not engaged.

 

[ChuckM]

A) At this time i see the tool being used for breaking down sheet goods etc. I have a TS, Jointer and planer that i can use for milling lumber.

B) That being said who knows what the future holds. I may find a situation where i would want to straight line but some 8/4 or thicker hard wood away from my shop.
Craig

The answer is pretty obvious to me: a TS55 takes care of (A) well, but not necessarily (B).

Others have commented about the weight of a TS75. It may be a factor you want to consider. If you're physically strong, or don't use the track saw a lot, it may not be a factor. I've seen arguments that since the saw slides on a track, the extra weight doesn't matter. It does, based on my experience of using the two as you'd need to lift the saw up and down as you do cuts.

I used to have a TS75...if I needed to buy a track saw again, I'd a get a TS55 because I wouldn't use it often enough to justify the additional cost.

 

[xedos]

That being said who knows what the future holds. I may find a situation where i would want to straight line but some 8/4 or thicker hard wood away from my shop.

I find this a curious position when deciding on something now.  No one knows the future (except for one's death) and you might want to do a number of things in the future.  You cannot cover all outcomes; so why try?

Do you own a router ?  Was the first one you got a 3hp portable one ?  Why not, you might want to hog out something with a 2" bit in the future.

If your primary use of the saw is for sheetgoods, get the 55 because that's what it's suited for.  It'll also cut a 2x4 , barely.  But since you don't even have that use on the horizon why handicap yourself for the 95-99% of the work you will do ?

I have heard mixed reviews on the connector system with the festool track

That's because guys have different criteria for what and how they use the rails.  Those that need portability don't fancy hauling around an 8' rail from job to job.  Plus, you're going to need a shorter rail anyway because crosscutting a 12-24" panel with an 8' rail is too cumbersome.  There's also the camp that thinks they can't ; or simply isn't adept enough at getting a strait cut with joined rails.  Part of this used to be because the festool connectors are flawed and require a lot of patience, and finesse to work correctly.  That's changed with Hans' introduction of the TSO connectors.  Buy those unquestioningly if you want to join two rail together and your results will be great.  If you value convenience, don't need portability, and have lots of storage space - get the looooong rail.

Is this going to be a battery saw?  Because that job you might do offsite might not have electricity.  [wink]