Why buy a jointer when you can use a router table?

[MichaelW2014]

Why would someone buy a jointer when a router table can be used instead? One can get a 3" straight bit and would be enough to joint the edges of most boards that I would ever use. I want to know the arguments for and against this proposition. Thanks

 

[bkharman]

I subscribed to this to track as well. I have the Incra fence and have had zero luck getting boards to join correctly as a result.

 

[WarnerConstCo.]

If all you are doing is edge jointing, get good with a plane. 

Edge jointing is last on the list of activities I prefom with my jointer, either the 8", 16", 20" and soon to be 30" machine. 

 

[tiralie]

Why would someone buy a jointer when a router table can be used instead? One can get a 3" straight bit and would be enough to joint the edges of most boards that I would ever use. I want to know the arguments for and against this proposition. Thanks

While you can joint a board with a 3" bit on a router table, jointing is not the only or most important job for a jointer.
Being able to quickly take the twist and bow or cup out of a wide board and to square the face to the edge.
Of course, all of this can also be done with a TS 55 and well tuned hand plane.
For me jointing on the router just takes too long.
Tim

 

[mouppe]

Are you certain that the router bit is square to the table? How are you going to joint the face of the board?

Just two arguments against using a router table.

 

[live4ever]

As with all woodworking operations, more than one way to skin a cat.

I think edge jointing on the router table is more cumbersome than edge jointing with a straightedge/board and a flush trim bit on a handheld router.  Also, working with large boards on router tables, which are usually 24-32" wide, can be a pain.  To edge joint properly on the RT, you need to offset the fence halves.

Not to mention you can't face joint on a router table.  You can face joint with a sled and router, but it's a bit of a pain.

There are many ways to edge joint without a jointer, and they are all fairly easy (hand plane, track/circ saw, table saw and sled, router table, handheld router and flush trim bit).  The non-jointer methods of face jointing are fewer and perhaps a little more involved (router sled, planer sled, hand planing).

 

[MichaelW2014]

I subscribed to this to track as well. I have the Incra fence and have had zero luck getting boards to join correctly as a result.

that sucks. you have the wonder fence? that is what I was seriously considering. thanks for your input.

 

[MichaelW2014]

If all you are doing is edge jointing, get good with a plane. 

Edge jointing is last on the list of activities I perfom with my jointer, either the 8", 16", 20" and soon to be 30" machine. 

i have a no.5 and i need to master it. i have only used it twice with some success. but i have never made square stock. i have a table saw en route to my budding workshop. this can be used to get a parallel side on a board. then i guess i will just plane the faces. i don't see another way to go at this point. i don't have the money to buy a jointer, nor a planer.

 

[MichaelW2014]

Why would someone buy a jointer when a router table can be used instead? One can get a 3" straight bit and would be enough to joint the edges of most boards that I would ever use. I want to know the arguments for and against this proposition. Thanks

While you can joint a board with a 3" bit on a router table, jointing is not the only or most important job for a jointer.
Being able to quickly take the twist and bow or cup out of a wide board and to square the face to the edge.
Of course, all of this can also be done with a TS 55 and well tuned hand plane.
For me jointing on the router just takes too long.
Tim

you get the parallel edges with the track saw and guide rail. and then plane the faces?
~
yeah, i need a jointer. but the jointer planer i want is far beyond my financial reach at this time.

 

[MichaelW2014]

Are you certain that the router bit is square to the table? How are you going to joint the face of the board?

Just two arguments against using a router table.

i see. when it works it only parallels the edges. that is really what initially caused me to turn away from this idea.

on an incra table or festool table the bit should be perfectly 90 degrees with the table

 

[GhostFist]

When milling rough stock you typically flatten one face and one edge on a jointer before final dimensioning on a thickness planer for the fastest and most accurate results. A router table isn't cut out for this job.

 

[semenza]

The Incra Wonder Fence will edge joint very nicely for small pieces say up to about 3', if at least one face is flat and true.  As has already been said face jointing just won't work on the router table.  But if you lack a jointer then it can work well for shorter , smaller pieces.

Seth

 

[SittingElf]

Buy the tool that is designed for the purpose.  A router and router table are not manufactured with the purpose of edge jointing in mind.  A jointer is made for that purpose, and far more powerful and faster with the ability to take a bigger cut of wood than a router bit.

As was mentioned earlier, face jointing is almost impossible with a router bit. I challenge anyone to find a length of wood at any lumber yard, or the BORG, that is perfectly flat. If you're using for roofing then no big deal, but if you're building quality projects, then the jointer is for you.

You would have to hold a gun to my head (and pull the trigger) to take away my Hammer A3-41 Jointer/Planer! [scared]

Cheers,

Frank

 

[grbmds]

By now you are probabaly tired of hearing everybody's opinions. I'll just tell you what my experience has been. I started out with a small Rockwell 6" jointer with a short bed and use that for years. The results were OK. While not perfect, I believe they are still better that I would have ever gotten with a router table setup. Then, about 2 years ago, I bought an 8" jointer with segmented a segmente cutter head. While it is not possible for everyone to get one of these and not everyone has the space, it was one of my top 3 purchases of all time. Since you can't generally find high quality hardwood wider than 8" anyway, I can face joint almost any board I use and the edge jointing is superior to anything I've ever done, both with a  handplane and with other equipment. To use a handplane to get the edge as good would require many hours of practice, not to mention the perfection of your plane blade sharpening skills (which is an art in and of itself). I don't have that kind of time. So, for me, the jointer is the best tool for the job of face and edge jointing (set up and tuned properly of course).

 

[Paul G]

yeah, i need a jointer. but the jointer planer i want is far beyond my financial reach at this time.

Yea, I don't have any place for one currently, and until I have a jointer/planer (and a cabinet saw, bandsaw, etc) my projects are quite limited.

 

[gkaiseril]

Are you certain that the router bit is square to the table? How are you going to joint the face of the board?

Just two arguments against using a router table.

i see. when it works it only parallels the edges. that is really what initially caused me to turn away from this idea.

on an incra table or festool table the bit should be perfectly 90 degrees with the table

When joining 2 edges, you only need them to match. If one places two boards face to back and plane the edges even if the edges are not square to the faces of the boards when one opens the board like a book any angle between the edge and face of the boards will match because when the two edges were palned at the same angle and when opened like a book the angles compliment each other.

Also using a hand plane allows one to put a dip in the center and create a spring joint at the joining sides and this joint insures even clamping pressure over the length of the joint. It even might be possible to use only one clamp to join the pieces.

 

[grbmds]

Still the jointer is the tool if you can afford it and have room. Ideally the edges should be square or so close it doesn't matter. As for the dip in the center it shouldn't be necessary if the edges are square and jointer flat along the length. That glue joint will not be the point of failure if glued and clamped. Handplaning and plane blace sharpening are great skills to develop. I envy those who do it well but for me, a jointer which is set up properly still gives me the best result.

 

[tiralie]

you get the parallel edges with the track saw and guide rail. and then plane the faces?

It depends on the board and the length.

yeah, i need a jointer. but the jointer planer i want is far beyond my financial reach at this time.

I understand the time-cost-quality issue.
Power tools increase efficiency but they don't make the product better or worse. The operator is the key.
I am sure that Warner's reconditioned old jointers produce as good or better surface than any new jointer available today but cost much less. Of course the time he has invested is priceless.
My advice is to get a new or used #7 jointer plane and a LA jack plane and learn to use them to prep your stock. Ya, it'll take more time, but you will wonder why you thought you needed a jointer and you may actually become a better woodworker and understand wood much better.
Hope that helps.
Tim

 

[grbmds]

All deends on your orientation and what you want to accomplish in woodworking. No question that for a beginner hand tools will teach you a lot about the basics. If you have the time to spend perfecting those skills you can work cleaner, with less noise, and you will get aot of satisfaction. I never had that kind of time and I enjoy the end result as much or more so I like being able to get a great result flattening, jointing, and sizing the in a very short time period with machines. You can cut mortises, tenons, and dovetails by hand also. Again, it comes down to what satisfies you. To me, that is the most important and the real wonder of woodworking.

 

[fshanno]

I have the little Rigid 6" jointer.  Nice little machine.

I've tried the router table.  Forget it.  A track saw or a straight lining sled for the table saw is way better.  And when one edge is straight you can get the other edge straight.  And you can get a decent glue line on the table saw or with your track saw by shaving off just a hair on the last pass.

But really, a jointer is the way to go.  It's the most fun machine in the shop to use.  It's fun to flatten and edge joint boards. 

You can make table extensions for your little 6" machine and joint boards 60" long.

I don't understand how people can build doors without a jointer.