Woodpeckers Story Stick or Rule with Rule Stop?

Vanhalo

Member
Joined
Mar 28, 2016
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25
Having a hard time selecting which WP measuring tools will be the most useful.

The 96 Story Stick Pro seems like it would be the most useful.

I wanted to make sure i cover both metric and imperial without buying one of each.

I currently own the following:

  • 1281 Imperial
  • TS32

Adding

  • Delve Square
  • Paolini 6"/150mm Pocket Rule
  • 96" Story Stick or the 49.5"/1257mm Rule and stop

Also adding (when they come back in stock)

  • 1281 Metric
  • TS-600-20

Thoughts?

 
These are so dependent on what type of work you do and how you like to do it (meaning my experience/advice may be worthless to you), but for what it's worth:

The story stick looks cool, but I think you pretty much have to use the plastic tabs.  Otherwise, the scale is way up off the material, and the 49.5/1257 will be much easier to read.  Unless you're using it for its intended purpose all the time (multiple, repetitive markings) I think it'll be a lot harder to use than the "regular" rule.

Also:
  • Love my 1281, but I don't find it great for measuring, so I wouldn't have any need for one each in metric/imperial. It's so thick (which is good for the things I do with it) that I don't like using the scale - it's too far off the material for me.  If I'm trying to measure or mark with the scale, I'll use something else.
  • How do you use your TS-32? Do you use it to check for square and draw lines perpendicular to the reference edge, or do you use the holes to draw lines parallel to your reference edge?  If you use the holes, are you using the length, or are you more often close to the reference edge?  If you're not using those far away holes, I'm not sure how much the TS600 gets you.  They'll be the same for squaring and drawing perpendicular lines, and if you're just using it as a rule, you could do that with an actual rule (the 1257/49.5 with a hook stop, for example).  If you like the holes, but are mostly closer to the reference edge, I cannot overstate how much I like my saddle t-squares.  I have the 300 and the 100, and they make marking go so quickly. But they obviously lack the length of the 600/32.

I have no experience with or insight on the Delve or Paolini.  People seem to love those Paolinis, though.
 
Years ago I worked with a cabinet maker who had his own custom story sticks he used in the workshop. He didn't use them onsite.
I tried using one onsite a few times and thought better of it. If you are doing technical fabricating, maybe a good way to go. If you are doing standard installs and know how to read a tape measure and your own marks on the wall, maybe pic another tool.
I don't have to rule stop but have thought about getting it.
The edge rules have come in very handy.
Don't sweat the WP OTT, it will be back.
 
In my opinion, the Paolini Rule is the best tool from Woodpecker. I use more than any other measuring tool (expect for my fast cap tape measure). If ever lost, I will likely break down in tears and quit the hobby. I do have the story stick and it comes in handy when needed. Surprisingly and disappointingly, I have found that I don't like the 1281(too clunky) and reach for my Starrett combination square or the Paolini Rule most times. I guess I eventually need to sell some of the stuff I don't use or like. Just my two cents...
 
[member=60879]Vanhalo[/member] I would definitely recommend the ruler with rule stop over the story stick, though as has been already remarked, it also depends on intended work.  I have both, and I hardly ever use the story stick.  I can see how it might be useful if you are doing a lot of repeat cutting with multiple set measurements across multiple sheets; or if you regularly have to do repeat cuts in excess of 48" (but in that case, it's good to have the story stick always assembled -- if you have to de- and reconstruct it every time, it's a PITA).  But in general, the single ruler and rule stop is sufficient if you plan the sequence of your cuts well.  That said, for those times when I have to go back and forth between two different measurements, I ended up getting a second rule stop and 24" ruler.
 
Dr. P. Venkman said:
I cannot overstate how much I like my saddle t-squares.  I have the 300 and the 100, and they make marking go so quickly. But they obviously lack the length of the 600/32.

Do the saddle squares bottom out on 3/4" material?

Screenshot-at-2021-04-07-20-00-57.png
 
With Woodpeckers it is all about the stainless blades when possible. For some crazy reason I always buy both metric and standard, as I use both often, yet prefer metric.

Although I own the aluminum version of the larger squares, I did buy the most used square I have which are these smaller 12"/300mm stainless versions. One jumped off my MFT crashing onto the floor and becoming useless, until a couple minutes later after an easy adjustment. Sucks that it came out of square, but at least I was able to make it accurate again in a short amount of time.https://www.woodpeck.com/woodpeckers-stainless-steel-squares.html

Someday I will sell off my larger aluminum squares and upgrade to the stainless version. The aluminum version is just too thick and I really like the ability to put my pencil in a divit and mark a perfect line.https://www.woodpeck.com/stainless-steel-squares-2616ss-1812ss.html

1812ss-2616ss-precision-woodworking-squares_04-a.jpg


The story stick in metric/standard is high on my list of measuring tools, along with the Paolini metric/standard pocket ruler. The Delve square doesn't appeal to me as much since I have numerous small rafter squares, but show me a thin stainless one and I would be saying take my money.

 
Well after all the input here I think I have decided to sell what I have and go SS and Metric.

 
Vanhalo said:
Do the saddle squares bottom out on 3/4" material?

True 3/4? No.

19mm plywood? No.

18mm plywood? Yes, very slightly. It hasn’t been an issue for me, though - I tend to have the reference edge at the edge of my work surface when marking.

The pocket t square does similar things and is a bit shallower, I believe. Don’t hold me to this, but I think it won’t bottom out until you’re below a half inch thickness.
 
The 1281 is the square I use the most - for marking and checking square.

I do own the Story Stick. However, I have never used the full length of it for anything. I almost always use the first section for cabinets and other pieces where I want to duplicate a measurement. All the extensions were a waste of money for me but maybe if you do a lot of plywood work the full 96" may be useful. I don't do that type of work.

I also own and use the Pocket T-Squares (all 3 - 3", 6", 8") for marking. I find them very useful with a 9mm lead for marking a specific distance along the length or width of a board.

I own a 6" Carpenter's Square and do find it useful, but I use the 1281 much more often unless I need a smaller square to fit inside.

Other than that, I do own other WP stuff but it's kind of a luxury. I own the WP MFT Square and feel that it's one of those things I bought, use all the time to check the squareness of the miter head on my MFT, and then feel completely confident it is square. Could I get along without it? Sure, but I love the confidence it gives me when I use it just for that purpose.

I own some other WP stuff, but these are the tools I use the most.
 
I very much like the Paolini pocket squares.  Stainless is better than aluminum.

I do use my story stick.  I have a 48" and then the 96".  I actually use the first 32" section of the 96" the most, and rarely all three together, but sometimes the two bottom sections because the 48" wouldn't work.  I find them great for marking centerlines to then domino.
 
I have 2 of the long rules with 2 rule stops. I use both of them for making cabinets. I set each rule stop at a different dimension and I can mark every cabinet side without moving the rule stops. More accuracy, more uniformity and it's faster. All I need are 2 marks for the proper placement of the TS guide rail.

Just remember, that if you're working outside, keep the anodized rules/squares out of the sunlight as it fades the anodizing and they can become almost impossible to read.

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I have a 60" heavy-duty aluminum ruler.  It is about 2" wide and 0.120" thick.  I also have 3 sets of stair gages (those little brass clamps that you normally attach to carpenters' squares to layout stairs).  I use that frequently as a story stick.  The ruler cost about $20.00 and the stair gages about $6.00 per set.

As a story gage it works very well.  There are fancier stair gages but they cost about $10.00 a piece.  I just checked they are now $25.00 per pair and I don't think they will be any better than the stair gages.
https://www.omnitoolworks.com/products/p/stair-gauges-for-carpenters-welders-framers-handymen

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I have the rule and the story stick.  I use the story stick more.  Use it a lot for domino placement.  It's also been handy when I'm trying to lay out drawer spacers on a carcass.  I've also used it for setting offsets for 32mm hole placement on cabinet sides.

I have the 49.5" rule with end stop and two adjustable stops.  It gets used but not as much as the story stick Pro.
 
I've bumped up against minor problems with WP stainless and Aluminum. My 600 mm aluminum rule took a fall, and one corner is mushed in, so I can't measure from that end on one scale. I am undecided about living with it, sending it back for "fixing", or trimming a few MM off of that end, which is the solution I like the least since would ruin both scales on that end.
So far, living with it is working, though every time I use it, I relive that "Duh"  [crying] moment.

I bought a large stainless blade square for squaring my MFT but the stainless blade tends to slip under the rail. For that particular job, I think an aluminum blade square would work better. But, for everything else, it's a fine tool, and augments my shorter Bridge City square nicely.
 
pixelated said:
I bought a large stainless blade square for squaring my MFT but the stainless blade tends to slip under the rail. For that particular job, I think an aluminum blade square would work better. But, for everything else, it's a fine tool, and augments my shorter Bridge City square nicely.
I use a 26" Woodpeckers square for my rail squareness checking which also slides under the rail as I like to check it with the rail set to the height I plan to cut at. The simple solution is a piece of wood that supplies enough height to keep the square at rail height. Since my fence is 1/2" I keep a 1/4" piece of MDF nearby so I can easily square the rail, and also use the MDF for cutting thinner material, by placing it under what I am cutting. Works for me.
 
I use the four Woodpeckers rules with centering constantly, I have two stops, find them indispensable.  I gave my 1281 to my son in law after buying the stainless version.  I also use the three Paolini rules every day.  I also have the 26" square and the triangle.  Accuracy is expensive.  At least most of my work is commercial, so pays.
 
Cheese said:
Just remember, that if you're working outside, keep the anodized rules/squares out of the sunlight as it fades the anodizing and they can become almost impossible to read.

You should write to the manufacturer. The anodizing should be sealed after application. Some of these sealers are highly UV resistant. The nickel based versions are supposed to be very good.

All dyes fade.  The dye manufacturers rate the UV resistance; anything with a rating of 8 or higher should give good service.

Most manufacturers are not knowledgeable about finishes, so by notifying them, you will be doing them a service.

Also ask them if they could offer a black finish option in the future. Many black dyes are highly UV resistant.

They can re-anodize the ruler, but without a process change it will be more of th same.
 
I ended up placing an order for:

  • Woodworking Ruler with 0-1257mm / 628mm-0-628mm
  • Woodpecker Rule Stop-2
  • Paolini Pocket Rule -6"/150mm Stainless Steel
  • Saddle T-Square - 150MM - 2019

600mm T-Square and Stainless steel squares will be next.

 
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