Would an MFT really be worth it for *me* ?

[woodnerd]

I've been looking at and wondering about the MFT.  If you look at my workshop page, you'll see I'm really not cramped for space and I've got some decent equipment already.  I also rarely if ever take my tools and work elsewhere.  I'd love an excuse to spend more money on Festool, but I just can't see where I'll get that much benefit over what I already have, it seems I'd be better off using that $500 to build a larger, sturdier work surface.  Maybe even incorporate some of the MFT accessories into it.

Am I missing something on the MFT?

 

[nickao]

I would build the larger MFT tables similar to Jerry Work's.

http://www.festoolusa.com/media/pdf/getting_the_most_from_the_mft_multifunction_table.pdf

 

[Corwin]

I've been looking at and wondering about the MFT.  If you look at my workshop page, you'll see I'm really not cramped for space and I've got some decent equipment already.  I also rarely if ever take my tools and work elsewhere.  I'd love an excuse to spend more money on Festool, but I just can't see where I'll get that much benefit over what I already have, it seems I'd be better off using that $500 to build a larger, sturdier work surface.  Maybe even incorporate some of the MFT accessories into it.

Am I missing something on the MFT?

I don't see where you have much in the way of work tables in your shop, so I do think that you would benefit from the purchase of a MFT/3, or two.  They make for a very useful platform for both sanding and assembly, and if you have Festools that utilize their Guide Rails, the MFT is a "must have" tool.

I would build the larger MFT tables similar to Jerry Work's.

http://www.festoolusa.com/media/pdf/getting_the_most_from_the_mft_multifunction_table.pdf

I don't see how this is a viable option anymore, as this was done back in the MFT 1080 days and those long profiles are no longer available.

 

[nickao]

You don't need the profiles. I said "similar" to Jerry works table.

He said he was going to build his own so he can build larger custom MFT tables for less than half what 2 MFT's would cost. I actually built one several weeks ago, 4' x 6'. Even two MFT's are just to small for a permanent solution, 4 in a square configuration would be nice, but totally unnecessary when you can just buy the tops and make your own base. I am wondering how many actually use the profiles once they have the unit for awhile, I bet a lot of people don't use them at all.

I thought those profiles were still available anyway. If no one can find them I can check my source if they seriously want them. Or they can just use the 8020 extrusion instead and get a T slot instead of the V groove. Or again, skip the Festool extrusions  altogether or make them out of wood(T slot or V Groove with a router).

 

[Neill]

Woodnerd,

Looks like you have a pretty good shop there even if I don't know what everything is or what you predominantly work on.

When I first started accumulating my Festools I did not particularly see the need to replace my Fein Vac with Festool nor did I see the need for the MFT.  I was wrong in both cases.

I did finally attach my Fein vac to my router table since it is tool activated and runs full speed all the time.  I purchased the C22 to use for everything else.

The MFT has really come in handy when using my TS55 and parallel guides as well as the domino.  Other than that, I don't use it that much for what it is.

I find that if I sand directly on the table there is too much vibration.  I usually use one of the spongy, open-weave router mats, bench cookies or carpet pads when I am sanding.  They secure the workpiece without clamps and limit or eliminate the vibration.

Although my use of the MFT is limited, I cannot imagine doing without it.

Neill

 

[nickao]

Yeah, they move WAY to much and feel flimsy to me. That's why I took off the legs and replaced with 4x4's. Then I went to the larger tables and kept the 4 x 4's. Of course I never move my tables. I still have the 4 sets of the Festool 1080 legs like new in a box somewhere.

 

[Neill]

Yeah, they move WAY to much and feel flimsy to me. That's why I took off the legs and replaced with 4x4's. Then I went to the larger tables and kept the 4 x 4's. Of course I never move my tables. I still have the 4 sets of the Festool 1080 legs like new in a box somewhere.

Nick,

Sorry, I guess I didn't make myself clear.

I have actually found the table to be pretty stable, but I keep it on a level surface and never move it.  The vibration I was referring to was the workpiece vibrating on the table's hard surface regardless of how securely it is clamped to the top.  I find the noise and the tactile feedback an irritation.

Neill

 

[woodguy7]

I would go with building a sturdy workbench with a good vise.  But i don't have a MFT/3 so cant give you the answer you want.  Cool site & nice shop.  Sad story about your dad.  My wife's dad had virtually the same story.  One lung gone then the other one collapsed in his sleep.  8 weeks from diagnosis, horrible disease.

Cheers, Woodguy.

 

[nickao]

I understood perfectly, I never mentioned the top being attached? With 6 - 4x4 legs and 8 let in 4 x 4 cross members, plus under table support believe me my table does not vibrate at all. I  can drive 16d nails in a 2 x 4 on the table. I wouldn't try that on a regular mft, the table is rock solid.  

 

[mouppe]

I find my MFT indispensable now, but before I got one I didn't know what I was missing. I also have a big heavy workbench for hand tool work, but for $500 I don't think you can do better than an MFT.

With all the hardware, vises, lumber, etc. my workbench cost well over $1200 to build.

Do you have a TS55? That is really what makes an MFT worthwhile.

 

[ccarrolladams]

Before I had a large shop I followed up my purchase of my first TS55 and guide rails with an MFT. Although not identical to a current MFT/3 that was and is very useful, especially when space is limited.

As for cost, I consider it fair. One key reason I bought a large building to be my shop was I had purchased a new CNC nested router and a beam saw.

Since then I have made my own drilled tops with 20mm dia holes on 96mm centers. Those are 4x8' and 4x10' and made on a CNC router during a slack period. I use 19mm ply that has cosmetic blemishes so I do not count much cost for the plywood. I did not take long to write the drilling program. However, once the plywood is on the CNC router it takes about 10 minutes to drill all those holes.

The cost of doing that for a customer would be far more than retail on a replacement MFT/3 top.

 

[Jesse Cloud]

I was wary of the MFT and took way too long to buy one.  Its one of those tools that you don't really appreciate until you have it.  The dead square holes open lots of possibilities for squaring jigs and precision work.  I can cut just as square and parallel on my mft as I can on my unisaw.  Running a router on the rail is the way to do stopped grooves and dadoes.  The clamps and clamping units let you hold just about anything, including curved stuff, in any position.  The aluminum extrusions offer lots of opportunities for tricking the mft out.

Having said that, building your own makes sense, too - if you are going to leave it in one place.  Personally, I would go for multiple mfts that I could reconfigure into different shapes depending on the current need.

Love your avatar!!