Yet another modification on guide rail setup

greymann

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Joined
Aug 23, 2011
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Hello all.  Up to now I have only made one post.  Over the last few years as I approached retirement, I started preparing for woodworking in earnest as a hobbyist.  This included building a separate shop building.  Along the way I had to stop this activity for a year and a half of the most rewarding and difficult time as a caretaker.  During that time I looked yearningly at the shop building and read and planned whenever I could.

I only mention that so you will be able to understand the posts that I have planned for the next few weeks.  I have thought about these a lot.

My first project is setting up to build cabinets for the shop.  Since I decided that I would not have a table saw in the shop, I needed to get my MFTs ready.

I have read the FOG for everything relevant that I could find.  I marveled over Steve (Qwas) Adams and the explosion of ideas and discussion that resulted from his discovery.  I also devoured Paul Marcel's videos and blog.  Those were just my starting points as there is too much credit that needs to be given to the unselfish and non judgmental FOG members to be listed here or anywhere.

I got the Qwas dogs and rails from Bob Marino and started out using Paul's methods.  I ran into some problems for my setup which is two 1080's set side by side that will be put away from time to time but will never leave the shop.  First was the cutting of strips of wood to use as spacers.  Maybe I didn't use exotic enough MDF but mine weren't parallel.  It seemed like I was in a chicken and egg dilemma.

So, and finally getting to the point of this post, I started to look for a method that didn't require any skill on my part to do the setup.  I looked at the offerings at Tool Improvements and started emailing back and forth with John.  He was most patient and helpful.  In fact the following would not have been possible without his assistance.  Thanks John.  

For this post I needed the double duty dogs with two small changes.  They were setting the head height to .250” and tapping them with M8 threads.  Second, I asked if he could design a large sleeve to fit over them.  He had some 2.125” diameter stock and agreed to make them for me.  Hopefully, you will see that you need some too.  Since he has a product called reducing sleeves, let's call these enlarging sleeves.

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Here they are.

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With these all that is needed is to butt the guide rail against them and the rest of its setup is standard.  You can see that the objective of setting the cut line off the column of holes is met.

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Now you can see why I asked for the sleeve and dog height to be .250”.  It exactly supports the blade on my square as I check that the rail is perpendicular to the edge of the MDF.

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In fact the sleeves can be used anywhere on this or any other surface to support the square blade.

So simple even I can do it every time in no time at all.  For those of you who leave your shop, I think you can see that they are pretty portable as well.

That's enough for now.  I'll get into my adventures in setting up the fence later on.  

Dick
 
Welcome to the FOG, Dick.  It's great to have you, and I look forward to your contributions and questions.  I have a feeling I'll learn a lot from your experiences in setting up your shop.  I hope the process proves to be everything you've hoped it to be.

David
 
Welcome - I'm sure you will be a great contributor to FOG. Couldn't you just drop the short side of the square off the table and set the inside edge against the outside of the MDF?. I think that would be more accurate than lining up the outside edge of the square. Technically if the dogs are right on and the MDF is square, you should just be able to register off the dogs and not need the square at all or maybe I'm missing something
 
Yes, in this case I could have done that and most of the time you would.  I am really leading up to using the square to verify the 90 degree angle between the rail and the fence that is coming in another couple posts, one for everyone and one for the lucky who still use 1080's. 

While the rail will always be true using these dogs and sleeves, most methods I have so far discovered of setting up the fence has some small but measurable slop and needs the square.  I am pretty satisfied with how I'm going to do this but am waiting for some parts to be able to show it.
 
I must be a bit thick here, as I don't understand the purpose of these low dogs. Looks like you are using them to get the rail parallel to them by pushing up against it. Surely if you place some timber under the rail, they are no longer effective, unless the timber itself is up against them and has a straight edge?
 
I presume he is still using the guide rail support brackets and is merely squaring the rail to the holes. Once squared, he just has to butt his timber against a pair of dogs in perpendicular holes and he can be assured of a 90 degree cross-cut.
 
Yes, Richard has it.  That is what I meant when I said "the rest of its setup is standard".  I had gone on so long at that point that I was looking for shortcuts.  After aligning the rails to the dogs and sleeves I use the Festool brackets on each end of the table.

Dick
 
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