Chris Hughes
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Is the plexiglas template used for cutting mortises? What else can the jig do and are there many of these templates out there? Chris
yet another question re: router accessories "The Plexiglas Template"
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Chris Hughes
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- Mar 15, 2008
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Its in the catalogue. It says the template is for "routing groves and slots on edge". That is why I suspect that it is a device that could be used for cutting mortises. Chris
Forrest Anderson
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Ned Young said:
You're absolutely right - he's got an article on his website about it athttp://www.burrellcustomcarpentry.com/subpage44.html Festool call it the "Plexiglas template, with two adjustable fences and integrated rule for routing grooves and slots on edges, Order No 495246".
For some reason the UK catalogue calls it the "Routing aid OF-FH 2000, for OF 900, OF 1000, OF 1010, OF 1400, OF2000, for routing Schallex and cold stops in doors and windows, can also be used with routers from other manufacturers, Order No 492037".
It looks a very handy gadget, but it's got a pretty hefty $251 price tag! At first sight, it looks as though it would be possible to make one - has anyone tried that?
Forrest
Woodenfish
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Forrest,
I made one of these years ago to fit another brand of plunge router that I used to own. It looked very similar to this Festool one but I used maple runners instead of more acrylic, also mine did not have the ruler. I did though use a router centering bit though to align my mortise and it worked just as well. $251 is pretty steep for sure, I think I had around $25 into mine and that included the centering bit. The jig worked very well for mortising and as as edge guide when one runner was removed. Being that the plate is acrylic it is easily subjected to scuffs and scratches from use. I could see that being a problem with the etched line that Festool has chosen to use to align the tool to the stock over time.
http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?Offerings_ID=6546&TabSelect=Details
I made one of these years ago to fit another brand of plunge router that I used to own. It looked very similar to this Festool one but I used maple runners instead of more acrylic, also mine did not have the ruler. I did though use a router centering bit though to align my mortise and it worked just as well. $251 is pretty steep for sure, I think I had around $25 into mine and that included the centering bit. The jig worked very well for mortising and as as edge guide when one runner was removed. Being that the plate is acrylic it is easily subjected to scuffs and scratches from use. I could see that being a problem with the etched line that Festool has chosen to use to align the tool to the stock over time.
http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?Offerings_ID=6546&TabSelect=Details
Brice Burrell
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Here's the review for the routing aid (the thread here on FOG) and another thread for using the routing aid to cut the male portions of sliding dovetails.
An alternative method was suggested by RW from Festool Junkie in another thread;
"Honestly two edge guides is a pretty easy way of restraining the 1400 for mortise work on things like table legs. You can fine tune one side and adjust the other so its just loose enough to still move. I know theres a plexi setup as well, but a second edge guide is cheaper, even if you are limited somewhat in the thickness you can pull it off with."
"Honestly two edge guides is a pretty easy way of restraining the 1400 for mortise work on things like table legs. You can fine tune one side and adjust the other so its just loose enough to still move. I know theres a plexi setup as well, but a second edge guide is cheaper, even if you are limited somewhat in the thickness you can pull it off with."
My name isn't Brice but I have used the of/fh together with the of1400. It's even easier to connect the jig to the 1400, it uses 2 bigger screws, instead of the 3 smaller ones on the 1100. When I need to use the of/fh, the 1400 is my first choice, because of the easier set up, and with the of/fh the extra weight is not that much of an issue.
Brice Burrell
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Frank-Jan got it, it works with the 1400, in this thread I posted a picture of the 1400 with the routing aid mounted, reply #1.
Thanks Frank-Jan; thanks Brice.
Shane: Check out the part description on the Festool website. It says the part works with the 1010 and 2000 but says nothing about the 1400.
I know you're busy, but you might want to add a modification to that page to your list.
Dave
Shane: Check out the part description on the Festool website. It says the part works with the 1010 and 2000 but says nothing about the 1400.
I know you're busy, but you might want to add a modification to that page to your list.
Dave
Well, having seen the usefulness of the "Plexi" template in this post, but not willing to spend $275 for it, I've decided to build my own for my brand new OF1400. I have four doors to route mortises in, so I can see that this will be useful for that, and for other projects down the road. I had originally bought some UHMW to make a "strike-plate" mortising template to do the job, but decided after the post that this would be a better project.
Yesterday I made a trip to Lee Valley Tools to pick up some jig parts ($25) and to my local plastics dealer to pick up some Lexan-clear polycarbonate($30) in 3/8" and 1/2". For the centre-finding tapes on each end, for fence positioning, I'm going to buy some clear centre-finding rules from a quilting/sewing store. They are $2.50 each for the clear plastic version, versus $10.95 each for the metal ones at Lee Valley. I figure
I'm attempt to to route, drill and assemble it this weekend. I'll report back with pictures on my progress.
If it works well, I'll have one built for $60 + 1 or 2 hours of labour. I've never worked with Lexan before, so wish me luck.
cheers,
Rob
Yesterday I made a trip to Lee Valley Tools to pick up some jig parts ($25) and to my local plastics dealer to pick up some Lexan-clear polycarbonate($30) in 3/8" and 1/2". For the centre-finding tapes on each end, for fence positioning, I'm going to buy some clear centre-finding rules from a quilting/sewing store. They are $2.50 each for the clear plastic version, versus $10.95 each for the metal ones at Lee Valley. I figure
I'm attempt to to route, drill and assemble it this weekend. I'll report back with pictures on my progress.
If it works well, I'll have one built for $60 + 1 or 2 hours of labour. I've never worked with Lexan before, so wish me luck.
cheers,
Rob
Good luck Rob, I'm looking forward to seeing the result.
If you go to the ekat parts and diagrams site: link You can find the jig under Routing>Routers>accesories routing>routing aid. It also has the productnumber and price for the screws, knobs 'n stuff if you can't find similar parts elsewhere.
I haven't worked with plexi much, but you might find some good info on computer casemod fora. (Just a thought, a few years ago when I frequented sites like that the stuff was used a lot, and most had well documented work in progress threads)
If you go to the ekat parts and diagrams site: link You can find the jig under Routing>Routers>accesories routing>routing aid. It also has the productnumber and price for the screws, knobs 'n stuff if you can't find similar parts elsewhere.
I haven't worked with plexi much, but you might find some good info on computer casemod fora. (Just a thought, a few years ago when I frequented sites like that the stuff was used a lot, and most had well documented work in progress threads)
Well, here is the result of my efforts to build a cheaper routing aid for my OF1400.
I decided to use 3/8" Lexan (clear polycarbonate) for the sole plate, and 3/4" white UHMW for the fences. The plastics dealer didn't stock 3/4" lexan, and the UHMW was much cheaper and has a lower coefficient of friction. (Plus it's easier to machine!).
The project went relatively well. Here are the steps to create it:
1) Removed protective paper from top-side of 6"w x 12"l x 3/8"d lexan. Left the backing paper on the other side until all other step were completed, to prevent unnecessary scratching.
2) Etched cross-hairs in lexan using a offsite wheel-gauge. Two passes with the wheel gauge left a decent line.
3) Drilled 1 3/4" hole in centre of lexan using a hole saw on my drill press. If you are having trouble lining up centre in both axes, make sure you at least get the longitudial axes on centre. This will be the center line you use to measure offsets for the fence, so the hole should be accurately centered at least in that direction.
4) Routed the 4 slots. I set them back 1 3/4" from the ends, and routed them 2" long. I used my OF1400 on the guide rail, with 1/4" up-spiral bit. Be careful to hold the lexan down firmly with clamps, as the guide rail is not enough. The router wants to pull the workpiece in all kinds of crazy directions. ( I made some interesting grooves in my first attempt!).
5) I centered my OF 1400 on the lexan, aligning the index marks on the base with my cross-hairs on the lexan. clamped the router to the plate and turned it over. Marked the mounting plate holes with a punch.
6) removed plate from router and and drilled the holes using 1/4" bit and 3/8" countersink
now for the fences...
7) using 4"w x 11 1/2"l x 3/4"d UHMW. drilled 2 holes into sides of each fence for the cross-dowels. I set the depth stop on my drill press to prevent the holes from going all the way through the UHMW. positioned these 1 1/2" from ends and 3/8" from top. This allowed for a 1" jig bolt to grab sufficiently. I left about 1/32 of slack for the dowel when choosing my diameter of drill bit.
8) drilled 2 holes in top of each fence for the jig fixtures. I drilled these about 3/4" deep, to allow for the jig bolt to pass through the dowel.
I haven't acquired machine screws yet to fasten the router to the plate, so I haven't had a real test run yet, but the fences assembled nicely and are easy to adjust, yet hold firmly. I am relatively pleased with my result, and saved about $200 in the process!!!! ;D
I will probably ease the edges of the fences with a 1/8" roundover bit when I have it on my router next time. Also, I'd like to flame the edges of the lexan to polish them a bit. Lastly, I have to pick up a couple of center-finding rules to mount on the top of the jig. So far I have about 1 1/2 hours and less than $60 into it.
I hope this inspires others to do the same.
Cheers,
Rob
I decided to use 3/8" Lexan (clear polycarbonate) for the sole plate, and 3/4" white UHMW for the fences. The plastics dealer didn't stock 3/4" lexan, and the UHMW was much cheaper and has a lower coefficient of friction. (Plus it's easier to machine!).
The project went relatively well. Here are the steps to create it:
1) Removed protective paper from top-side of 6"w x 12"l x 3/8"d lexan. Left the backing paper on the other side until all other step were completed, to prevent unnecessary scratching.
2) Etched cross-hairs in lexan using a offsite wheel-gauge. Two passes with the wheel gauge left a decent line.
3) Drilled 1 3/4" hole in centre of lexan using a hole saw on my drill press. If you are having trouble lining up centre in both axes, make sure you at least get the longitudial axes on centre. This will be the center line you use to measure offsets for the fence, so the hole should be accurately centered at least in that direction.
4) Routed the 4 slots. I set them back 1 3/4" from the ends, and routed them 2" long. I used my OF1400 on the guide rail, with 1/4" up-spiral bit. Be careful to hold the lexan down firmly with clamps, as the guide rail is not enough. The router wants to pull the workpiece in all kinds of crazy directions. ( I made some interesting grooves in my first attempt!).
5) I centered my OF 1400 on the lexan, aligning the index marks on the base with my cross-hairs on the lexan. clamped the router to the plate and turned it over. Marked the mounting plate holes with a punch.
6) removed plate from router and and drilled the holes using 1/4" bit and 3/8" countersink
now for the fences...
7) using 4"w x 11 1/2"l x 3/4"d UHMW. drilled 2 holes into sides of each fence for the cross-dowels. I set the depth stop on my drill press to prevent the holes from going all the way through the UHMW. positioned these 1 1/2" from ends and 3/8" from top. This allowed for a 1" jig bolt to grab sufficiently. I left about 1/32 of slack for the dowel when choosing my diameter of drill bit.
8) drilled 2 holes in top of each fence for the jig fixtures. I drilled these about 3/4" deep, to allow for the jig bolt to pass through the dowel.
I haven't acquired machine screws yet to fasten the router to the plate, so I haven't had a real test run yet, but the fences assembled nicely and are easy to adjust, yet hold firmly. I am relatively pleased with my result, and saved about $200 in the process!!!! ;D
I will probably ease the edges of the fences with a 1/8" roundover bit when I have it on my router next time. Also, I'd like to flame the edges of the lexan to polish them a bit. Lastly, I have to pick up a couple of center-finding rules to mount on the top of the jig. So far I have about 1 1/2 hours and less than $60 into it.
I hope this inspires others to do the same.
Cheers,
Rob
Bob Marino
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Ditto what Dan said! Very nice.
Bob
Bob
nickao
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Yes, I am liking it too.
I would make my own for sure now. All the money you saved can go toward material or another Festool. The accessory price is the worst part of getting into the Festools. The jigs and accessories that are hand made exceed the store bought units in many cases. Many of the accessories are simpler to just purchase, but this is one project almost anyone can do, nice job!
Nickao
I would make my own for sure now. All the money you saved can go toward material or another Festool. The accessory price is the worst part of getting into the Festools. The jigs and accessories that are hand made exceed the store bought units in many cases. Many of the accessories are simpler to just purchase, but this is one project almost anyone can do, nice job!
Nickao
Thanks for the encouragement guys. Now that I've received the Dan Clark "great pics", I feel like I'm finally part of the the FOG!
Bob can rest assured, that the money I saved on building my own routing aid will ultimately find its way into a Festool Dealer's pockets in the way of my next tool purchase. I'm saving up for the LR32 system and an LS130 sander....
Bob can rest assured, that the money I saved on building my own routing aid will ultimately find its way into a Festool Dealer's pockets in the way of my next tool purchase. I'm saving up for the LR32 system and an LS130 sander....
