Mr Heavy
Member
- Joined
- Mar 18, 2015
- Messages
- 100
...to make this template, cutting 24mm holes in a piece of mdf or laminate flooring,
but once it - or a longer version – is made, it can be clamped flush to the interior corner (edge-and-end) of a cabinet side and with a 24mm guide bush and a 5mm bit, you can knock out 5mm holes for shelf support pins more quickly than setting up the '32 again.
The pins will be spaced @ the correct 37mm from the cabinet edge though of course it can be offset to 32mm from the end if this is your preferred scheme simply by sighting the stock's interior end edge in the end edge holes. NB - if you're making something to match in with IKEA stuff, they use a non-standard edge offset which I think is 30mm, not 37mm. I've not done the sums but it's just a heads up in case you encounter it. Bah!
32mm hole jig, PDF
By using a 20mm bit with your 24mm bush, you can make an MFT style table top. You'll need to make 5mm holes first near the board edge to use as a reference, with 5mm dowels to locate the template thereafter. If anyone needs a double row of big holes for this purpose to locate the template on bench dogs it should be easy enough to make a wider template from the drawing.
Caution - a 20mm bit in a 24mm bush only has a mm or so clearance so you may need a couple of plunges to clear chips. Obviously the bush MUST be concentric with the bit so you MUST use a centering mandrel. Wealden tools do a cone mandrel virtually identical to the Festool (but with only one shank size per item) for around a fiver of Her Majesty's wiping papers. Significantly cheaper than the Festool offering.
Advantages of the jig over the full-on LS-32?
Costs sod all.
Portability - you can leave it hung up near your bench or chuck it in the bag with a rail "just in case."
Speed of set-up, particularly if tailored to a specific job run.
Disadvantages?
You'll need access to an LS-32 to build your first one.
It doesn't "click" as you use it so it's not as much fun or as satisfying. It doesn't look as shiny and impressive either...
I'm sure it would be possible to make without the LS-32, but not with the kit I've got access to so if anyone wants to modify or improve it it for a CNC run, feel free.
Hope somebody finds it useful.
If I've made any typos or miscalcs, please let me know and I'll fix them ASAP
but once it - or a longer version – is made, it can be clamped flush to the interior corner (edge-and-end) of a cabinet side and with a 24mm guide bush and a 5mm bit, you can knock out 5mm holes for shelf support pins more quickly than setting up the '32 again.
The pins will be spaced @ the correct 37mm from the cabinet edge though of course it can be offset to 32mm from the end if this is your preferred scheme simply by sighting the stock's interior end edge in the end edge holes. NB - if you're making something to match in with IKEA stuff, they use a non-standard edge offset which I think is 30mm, not 37mm. I've not done the sums but it's just a heads up in case you encounter it. Bah!
32mm hole jig, PDF
By using a 20mm bit with your 24mm bush, you can make an MFT style table top. You'll need to make 5mm holes first near the board edge to use as a reference, with 5mm dowels to locate the template thereafter. If anyone needs a double row of big holes for this purpose to locate the template on bench dogs it should be easy enough to make a wider template from the drawing.
Caution - a 20mm bit in a 24mm bush only has a mm or so clearance so you may need a couple of plunges to clear chips. Obviously the bush MUST be concentric with the bit so you MUST use a centering mandrel. Wealden tools do a cone mandrel virtually identical to the Festool (but with only one shank size per item) for around a fiver of Her Majesty's wiping papers. Significantly cheaper than the Festool offering.
Advantages of the jig over the full-on LS-32?
Costs sod all.
Portability - you can leave it hung up near your bench or chuck it in the bag with a rail "just in case."
Speed of set-up, particularly if tailored to a specific job run.
Disadvantages?
You'll need access to an LS-32 to build your first one.
It doesn't "click" as you use it so it's not as much fun or as satisfying. It doesn't look as shiny and impressive either...
I'm sure it would be possible to make without the LS-32, but not with the kit I've got access to so if anyone wants to modify or improve it it for a CNC run, feel free.
Hope somebody finds it useful.
If I've made any typos or miscalcs, please let me know and I'll fix them ASAP
