1010 vs 1400

[Rick Herrick]

I use my Dewalt compact router a lot and the basic round over, chamfer, top/bottom flush trim bits are the ones I use the most.  Not finding them in the 8mm size so I guess I will continue with the 1/4" shanks. 

Here are some nice 8 mm bits from Festool USA and all of them have replaceable carbide inserts.

Radius bits;    499811, 499810, 499809 & 499808.
45º chamfer bit;    499807
Flush trim bit with bearing;    491082

Thanks for the numbers Cheese.  They do look nice but just a wee bit out of my price range.

 

[xedos]

[member=72312]Rick Herrick[/member]  Lee Valley has every 8mm shank bit you're ever likely to need.

FWIW - folks have been using 1/4" bits for over 50 years with great success and few issues.  I wouldn't sweat it , especially in a non-production scenario.

 

[Rick Herrick]

FWIW - folks have been using 1/4" bits for over 50 years with great success and few issues.  I wouldn't sweat it , especially in a non-production scenario.

Agreed 100%, thank you.  I wasn't thinking it through.

 

[DynaGlide]

I'm relatively new to routing and own a few 1/2" bits. But being all in on the Festool train, moving forward I will do my best to plan ahead and order 8mm bits before I need them for all applications that don't require the 1/2" shanks. But like above if it's a smaller bit the 6mm or 1/4" shank shouldn't be an issue.

 

[Rick Herrick]

Thinking on this a little more.  I am also working towards being all-in on FT but the bits have me puzzled.  I already accept the higher cost on most FT items but still hung up on these 8mm bits.  Most of these are $130-150.  Is there anything more to these bits (over their 1/4" brothers) than just being Festool?  Just looking for that other reason to make me pay the extra over Freud, Whiteside, etc.  Is the carbide better, do they last longer, etc ?  I do realize that being 8mm they are bigger & stronger.

 

[Cheese]

I already accept the higher cost on most FT items but still hung up on these 8mm bits.  Most of these are $130-150.  Is there anything more to these bits (over their 1/4" brothers) than just being Festool? 

Those bits I mentioned have REPLACEABLE carbide cutters. The cutters can also be rotated 180º so when they dull, you just rotate the cutters and you're good to go again. So double the router bit life expectancy. Further, the cutters themselves are available separately so you can keep some on hand.

If you do a lot of work with MDF these are really handy because the binder used in MDF is tough on the carbide inserts/cutters.

This replaceable insert approach is the path of the future. It started with the metal working industry 40-50 years ago. Every year someone else adds replaceable insert tooling to their product line. Just noticed Amana recently added a bunch of In-Tech™ insert router bits to their product offerings. 
https://www.toolstoday.com/router-bits/in-tech-insert-knive-system-router-bits.html

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[jeffinsgf]

Thinking on this a little more.  I am also working towards being all-in on FT but the bits have me puzzled.  I already accept the higher cost on most FT items but still hung up on these 8mm bits.  Most of these are $130-150.  Is there anything more to these bits (over their 1/4" brothers) than just being Festool?  Just looking for that other reason to make me pay the extra over Freud, Whiteside, etc.  Is the carbide better, do they last longer, etc ?  I do realize that being 8mm they are bigger & stronger.

Rick,
Don't get hung up on your bits being exclusive. The 1010 comes with both 1/4-inch and 8mm collets. You can use whichever you want for whatever you're doing. Like Cheese said, the replaceable insert cutters are fantastic for bits you're using a ton in abrasive materials. The 5mm boring bit is unbelievably clean cutting and fast for boring shelf pins. I have the 5mm bit and a couple dovetail bits from Festool. They're great, but most of the rest of my router bits are Whiteside, with some Amana and Freud in there, too.

 

[Rick Herrick]

Those bits I mentioned have REPLACEABLE carbide cutters. The cutters can also be rotated 180º so when they dull, you just rotate the cutters and you're good to go again. So double the router bit life expectancy. Further, the cutters themselves are available separately so you can keep some on hand.

Thats very good info.  If I find that there is a certain profile that I use a lot, then one of these with the replaceable cutters could be better over time.  Thanks for pointing that out.

 

[jaykojc]

I had the 1400, sold it and got a 1010 (for the LR32) and a 2200.  I think my next move is to get rid of the two routers and go back to a 1400.  It has PLENTY of power, is easily manageable, and will do all you can ask of it.  For jobs I'd go to the 1010 for, I'll just use my Makita trim router.

FWIW, I am pretty sure I have a diagnosable problem with buying routers.  I imagine I have 15 now.  The 1400 is the best all around unit; the only thing I don't like is that they don't have (at least that I've seen) a full kit of all the accessories like they have for the 2200.  That's a great setup IMO.

 

[blues]

+1 for the 1400. Unless you fancy having multiple tools that does the same job 1400 it is. It takes every bit. Has enough power. Tons of accessories. It is one sweet router. If you look at all the compromises you would have if you choose the 1010 or if you choose the 2200, leaves you wanting to be bang in the middle and you will find yourself holding a 1400. Its not the best. But it is the best all round router.

 

[ScotF]

They all have their strengths and weaknesses - that is why you might do like me and get one of each!

 

[fabricem]

I will add my two cents to the discussion as this is an issue I just dealt with. I should prime my comments with the fact that I hate routers and don't need to go out to job sites, all my work is done in my studio. I am very comfortable with all my tools, but routers when handheld are scary to me, especially the powerful one. The 1400 was my first festool router and I had it for years, it is very well design, powerful and does well with both 1/4 and 1/2 bits. However, I almost never used it handheld, especially with 1/2 bits ( I do use it on a festool router table), for handheld, I used my Bosch palm router . recently I decided to downsize my tool "collection" and get rid of tools that are either redundant with other tools or tools I don't use much. I sold both my 1400 and palm routers and bought the MFK700 since most of my router needs involve little touch-up such as adding a small bevel or edge trimming. I love the feel of the MFK700 except for a giant design flow, IMO, which is that you can't see the bit, and in my work ( I am an industrial designer and do a lot of prototyping ) I need to see where I am in space and where my bit is. This is the only Festool tool I have sent back in the many years using their tools... So I ended up buying the OF1010. The 1010 is a great compromise, it is easy to use handheld and has plenty of power, not to mention I can still use my router table... I should mention that I also have a full size CNC with a spindle, one of the reason I don't need/use big routers...but do use smaller router to remove tabs left-over from the CNC cuts. My 1010. To conclude, I would say that  the choice between the two is really about what size bits are you going to use? for handheld work 1/4 is perfect, if you use 1/2" bits, then you are/should probably invest in a router table as well, make using 1/2" much easier and much less stresful : ) Of course if you are a professional such a cabinet maker and go out to job sites, then the 1400 would have to be a better choice.

 

[Crazyraceguy]

I use my Dewalt compact router a lot and the basic round over, chamfer, top/bottom flush trim bits are the ones I use the most.  Not finding them in the 8mm size so I guess I will continue with the 1/4" shanks.

Do  search on this forum for threads talking about 8mm shank router bits.  There have been many threads about where to buy these bits.  Looking at European websites and ordering from there is one answer.  Google search for 8mm router bits turns up Whiteside, Amana, Freud, CMT all making 8mm shank bits.  Again, you may have to buy them from a European seller and have them shipped to the USA because the US sellers do not carry the 8mm shank bits even though the company they represent does make them.

They have quite a few at Lee Valley. I have several 8mm shank bits from there. I discovered them while searching for a bigger bit to use in my MFK700 with the Paul Mercel modification to the zero degree base a few years ago.

 

[Stone Message]

Trend USA do 8 mm shank cutters.

Peter

 

[afish]

What are you using for dust extraction for the DW621?  You have to be throwing some pretty big chips to clog that bad boy.  If anything the extractor might be underpowered.  A router throws the particles with pretty good force and you need a lot of air to overcome that force.  Im not super picky with the dust collection of a router but I have always been pretty happy with my DW621's if your working on the edge they dont do to much and would need a shroud to help catch the dust.  The fact that the 1010 only takes .25 or 8mm bits and the 1400 has no way to center the bushing totally turns me off of festool routers.  Any router that costs 600 and you cant adjust the bushing to be centered is just sad. 

 

[Cheese]

Just in case anyone is unsure about how much power the 1010 router has versus the 1400, consider that Festool offers a rebating head that is 50 mm in diameter and has a cutter length of 30 mm.

The very same rebating head is designed to fit the 1010 router using the cutter spindle 489285, or the 1400 & 2200 routers using the cutter spindle 490131.

Here's a photo of the rebating head along with the spindle for the 1400/2200 routers. That's a large chunk of metal.  [big grin]  As I've said before, the 1010 is not a lightweight router when it comes to capabilities it's only lightweight in the sense of how much it weighs.

Besides...on a 1010 you can center the bit within the template guide.  [dead horse]

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[contendernut]

That’s a lot of metal to turn.

I have the 1010 but not the 1400. I have no problems with the 1010 for any handheld task. Now if JessEm would only make a lift for the 2200

 

[Stan Tillinghast]

I bought an extra router mounting plate for the LR32 system; my idea was to have the 1010 mounted in one for drilling shelf holes, and the 1400 mounted in the other for the hinge cup holes. Don’t have to re-center each time I switch from one to another.

 

[Crazyraceguy]

Just in case anyone is unsure about how much power the 1010 router has versus the 1400, consider that Festool offers a rebating head that is 50 mm in diameter and has a cutter length of 30 mm.

The very same rebating head is designed to fit the 1010 router using the cutter spindle 489285, or the 1400 & 2200 routers using the cutter spindle 490131.

Here's a photo of the rebating head along with the spindle for the 1400/2200 routers. That's a large chunk of metal.  [big grin]  As I've said before, the 1010 is not a lightweight router when it comes to capabilities it's only lightweight in the sense of how much it weighs.

Besides...on a 1010 you can center the bit within the template guide.  [dead horse]

Is that made with the taper of the collet? So it just screws onto the spindle of the router itself?

 

[Cheese]

Is that made with the taper of the collet? So it just screws onto the spindle of the router itself?

Ya...you just remove the collet & nut and this replaces them.

The same thing goes for the 1010 router.