118" Guide Rail-- uneven cut??? Help?

intermod

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Nov 12, 2008
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16
Hello,
I'm using the 118" guide rail for the first time. I'm getting uneven cuts on 3/4" MDF. The way I would describe it is it's bowing outward in the middle and touching on the front and end of the cut. I'm attaching a photo. I've clamped the MDF and the guide rail and the results are the same. I'm a little alarmed this is happening. Any suggestions?

 
Does your photo illustrate two pieces each separately ripped with the Guide Rail then placed with their ripped edges abutting?

Dave R.
 
No, this is the rip. I pushed the two sections together to show the problem more clearly.
 
intermod said:
Hello,
I'm using the 118" guide rail for the first time. I'm getting uneven cuts on 3/4" MDF. The way I would describe it is it's bowing outward in the middle and touching on the front and end of the cut. I'm attaching a photo. I've clamped the MDF and the guide rail and the results are the same. I'm a little alarmed this is happening. Any suggestions?
Check to make sure that you have taken all the play of your saw base to the rail. Any slop will let the saw wave a little and can cause uneven cuts.

When making long cuts like this the board being cut has to sit flat. If the support underneath allows the sheet to be  bowed up or down it will translate into a bowed cut. This is the culprit most of the time that I have seen.

On long cuts if you do not have the ability to make the cut in one even move, i.e. have to change hands along the way, or are reaching in to the middle of a sheet you can be pushing the saw sideways as well.

If the cuts are thin sometimes there is tension in the wood and it will just spring after cutting, move the rail over a little and make a second cut to take out the bows and  see if they line up now.

The rails are aluminum and precision extruded. Temperature can have a slight effect and cause the rails to tweak sometimes as well.

If you still have problems and none of these help, the rails may have a slight bow to them. Have them replaced. If you have access to another long rail even a 2700 try putting them back to back and see if it bows a little between them.

One other thing is to put a stick somewhere in the middle of the sheet behind the rail and clamp it down so the rail cannot flex in laterally. I find this very helpful on cuts 8 to 16 feet long.

Hope these help.

 
Thanks for the suggestions. The surface I'm cutting on is pretty flat. It varies a little but not much. Around a 1/16". I'll try correcting that to see if it helps. MDF shouldn't have any tension. I've been working with it for over 10 years and have never experienced anything like a post cut warp. Festool is sending me a replacement rail. But I still don't get what's happening. Maybe it is just a bad rail.
 
intermod said:
Thanks for the suggestions. The surface I'm cutting on is pretty flat. It varies a little but not much. Around a 1/16".

intermod,

1/16 is a big variance in my shop
 
A 1/16" may or may not be an issue. It depends if it is a cup or dip say only 3" - 18" apart which is bad or if the 1/16" is across 119" which is not so bad, its hard to tell how bad the surface is and if it is an issue not knowing this.

I think woodworking can easily be within 1/64" precision(which certainly would not effect the cut) these days. And my work tables are dead flat under a straight edge.
 
I would try lining up the rail with the cut edge you just made to see if the rubber strip lines up perfectly with the board just cut....or even more telling...flip it over so that the rubber strip is against the cut edge...like a bookmatch...it should show double the error if the rail is bowed and the culprit.....if it doesn't....you may be flexing the saw instead of pushing straight and even through the cut.  

Another thought....if your MDF IS flat...try standing your rail on edge - both rubber strip side and aluminum side - against the face of your board to see if it sits flush against the face or if it rocks like there is a bow in it...

hope this makes sense
 
Thanks Barry, that makes sense. I'll try that. Maybe I am deflecting the rail mid-cut but I'm pressing down and forward with the saw, not sideways. Thanks for your time.
 
I have had the same results with one of my 2 fs2/3000 rails. One cuts dead on and the other cuts with a slight curvature just as you are describing. I had the rail for about a year before I noticed and was planning on cutting it down into a 75" and a 43" rail. I didnt even think about returning it. Maybe I'll give festool a call.
 
Could it if become bad overtime? Temperature maybe? I would think with your work you would have noticed it sooner.
 
to test if it is the guide rail. Adjust the saw to the rail for no slop. then stack and cut 2 pieces then lay the boards with the cut edges toward each other. the gap in the middle or on the ends if the bow is the other way will be double the error.
 
Nick,
this was my backup rail, and I didnt use it very often. I should have noticed earlier though. Early on I did notice that some of my cuts off the rail were not straight but I didnt compare the 2 rails against each other. I figured it was just tension in the stock that caused the slight bow.
 
I'm glad to hear someone else has had this problem. Not that I wish this problem on anyone, I don't,  but now I'm not feeling so crazy. Thanks for all the replies.
 
Have you adjusted the saw so that it is tight with the fence rail?(those 2 green adjustment screws on the saw's foot)
What about speed?Are you at full speed?   
Are you using the right blade?

It looks like the gap repeats equally on the picture you posted.
 
Hello. Yes the saw is tight to the rail. I'm at full speed and I'm using the blade that came with the TS55. The gap isn't a repeat. It's one cut. Then I just pushed the two pieces together to show the problem more clearly.
 
Actually, that is a great point, tension or stress in the stock!

I would always make a cut on plywood as my first test  if I had a problem.
 
intermod said:
Hello. Yes the saw is tight to the rail. I'm at full speed and I'm using the blade that came with the TS55. The gap isn't a repeat. It's one cut. Then I just pushed the two pieces together to show the problem more clearly.
Right,i understand that it is 1 cut,but it looks like the gap between the 2 board(uneven part)  repeats itself in equal distance,or am i seen things?
 
Yes, sorry, I didn't understand your question; it's hard to describe these things in words.  It's a very even arc on both sides through the entire cut
 
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