120V Sys Power Box

[Dick Mahany]

Thanks to some inspiration found here on the FOG, I decided to build a US 120V power distribution box in a Systainer.  I just need to finish the inside rear cover panel and install a strain relief for the cord.  I used 12 gauge wire throughout and it was a little difficult to work in close quarters without distorting the systainer.  I was going to use a GFI, however all of the outlets that I typically use are already GFI protected. 

I'm only using this at home for my own personal use, so I'm not worried about OSHA or UL regulations. Just wish we could get a US version of the European power hub.  Any body listening at Festool?  [wink]

[attachimg=4]

 

[TinyShop]

I agree. Anyone listening?

Nice work BTW!

 

[semenza]

Yeah, and pretty good combination in the CT-Sys stack. Makes sense.

Seth

 

[GPowers]

We have been waiting for the NA version for a long time.... [sad]

 

[dltflt]

NIce setup. What size systainer?

 

[TinyShop]

We have been waiting for the NA version for a long time.... [sad]

So, since I don't see this happening anytime soon, I thought I'd share the results of my research into sourcing the components I'll be using to convert a new to me (but lightly used) Sys III into a DIY 120V/60Hz SYS-PH.

For outlets, I plan to use either the following, which are designed for installation in panels:

NEMA 5/15 Panel Outlet w/Spring-Loaded Cover, Black

...or these (which are also intended for panel installs):

NEMA 5-15 Panel Outlet w/ Spring Loaded Cover, Blue

Since the former are half the price of the latter, I'll likely opt for a selection of the less expensive ones, in which case I'll need to also procure some female terminal ends:

...to facilitate wire-up. I figure that after I've sunk the appropriate number and diameter of holes into the front of the systainer, I'll use pop rivets to fasten the outlets to the systainer wall.

As for protection on the inside of the systainer, I may or may not fasten a junction box behind each respective outlet (this will depend on how hermetically-sealed I make the plywood shroud that will cover the new work).

I also plan to install a single red LED indicator light like this one:

Indicator Light

...into the front face of the systainer to indicate whether or not the outlets are live.

I'm considering installing a standard 15A GFCI outlet upstream of the various outlets (ideally, mounted inside the systainer in the aforementioned plywood shroud) for ground fault protection but am hesitant to do so out of concern over high draw hand tools possibly causing false readings. Not sure if this concern is valid or not but it would be a nice place to tie in the short length of heavy duty power cord that I plan to use to supply power to the outlets (most often via a plug plugged into my Starmix vac).

I'm calculating that the entire project, including the US$50 I spent on the used systainer, will cost approximately US$100. My plan is to use the remaining space inside in the systainer for storage of a power cord (or two?) and a couple of battery chargers and some batteries, etc. We'll see.

Oh, and another even less expensive outlet option might be these snap-in (but non-dust cover protected) versions:

120V 15A US Socket, Panel Mount, NEMA 5-15R

Compatibility will depend on the thickness of the panel they are intended for (no idea if the intended panel thickness is thinner or thicker than the wall of a systainer).

So, just some ideas in case anyone else can benefit....

 

[Svar]

I'm curious what is the purpose of it? It's equivalent to a simple power strip, but 20 times bigger. Not to mention the cost. Why?

 

[TinyShop]

Efficiency mostly. I hate stumbling around cords in tight spaces and I can always use more sys storage (even if some of the interior volume will be eaten up by the associated wiring). Plus, it just adds to the professional look I'm aiming for. Also, I figure that the associated wiring and shroud won't take up any more room than a beefy power strip. So, nothing really lost (other than the ~US$50) while some improvements gained.

 

[TinyShop]

NIce setup. What size systainer?

Judging from the three horizontal lines on the front face of his systainer (under each label slot), it's a Sys III.

 

[Womble]

There is many UK people who been wanting a 110v UK version of the Power Hub myself included.

But Festool have been neglecting the 110v UK construction workers for a while now by only releasing many of their tools in 240v only versions, even when they claim in their lovely marketing literature they been designed for rugged site use.

I will point out that Festool are not the only company doing this Metabo (among others) are also not releasing 110v version of loads of their tools, not sure if they trying to pressure the UK into adopting 240v only across the board ( i know 110v isn't the law but it is the standard for site use whether we like it or not & its not going to change any time soon)

 

[Naildrivingman]

We have been waiting for the NA version for a long time.... [sad]

So, since I don't see this happening anytime soon, I thought I'd share the results of my research into sourcing the components I'll be using to convert a new to me (but lightly used) Sys III into a DIY 120V/60Hz SYS-PH.

For outlets, I plan to use either the following, which are designed for installation in panels:

NEMA 5/15 Panel Outlet w/Spring-Loaded Cover, Black

...or these (which are also intended for panel installs):

NEMA 5-15 Panel Outlet w/ Spring Loaded Cover, Blue

Since the former are half the price of the latter, I'll likely opt for a selection of the less expensive ones, in which case I'll need to also procure some female terminal ends:

...to facilitate wire-up. I figure that after I've sunk the appropriate number and diameter of holes into the front of the systainer, I'll use pop rivets to fasten the outlets to the systainer wall.

As for protection on the inside of the systainer, I may or may not fasten a junction box behind each respective outlet (this will depend on how hermetically-sealed I make the plywood shroud that will cover the new work).

I also plan to install a single red LED indicator light like this one:

Indicator Light

...into the front face of the systainer to indicate whether or not the outlets are live.

I'm considering installing a standard 15A GFCI outlet upstream of the various outlets (ideally, mounted inside the systainer in the aforementioned plywood shroud) for ground fault protection but am hesitant to do so out of concern over high draw hand tools possibly causing false readings. Not sure if this concern is valid or not but it would be a nice place to tie in the short length of heavy duty power cord that I plan to use to supply power to the outlets (most often via a plug plugged into my Starmix vac).

I'm calculating that the entire project, including the US$50 I spent on the used systainer, will cost approximately US$100. My plan is to use the remaining space inside in the systainer for storage of a power cord (or two?) and a couple of battery chargers and some batteries, etc. We'll see.

Oh, and another even less expensive outlet option might be these snap-in (but non-dust cover protected) versions:

120V 15A US Socket, Panel Mount, NEMA 5-15R

Compatibility will depend on the thickness of the panel they are intended for (no idea if the intended panel thickness is thinner or thicker than the wall of a systainer).

So, just some ideas in case anyone else can benefit....

[member=64030]TinyShop[/member] I have a really pesky suggestion for you if you choose to use the black outlet version. If possible, remove the door, turn it upside down and reinstall. I suggest because for me I kept having to bend over my vac to see the outlet when I plugged into it.  Flipping the door may introduce more option for dust to enter the outlet, but I am willing to accept this over wrenching my back.  If you can’t remove/reinstall the door, simply flip the outlet.  Just a suggestion.

 

[TinyShop]

[member=64733]Naildrivingman[/member] - I didn't say so, but you are right. The ability to rotate the lid portion of the outlet to any cardinal heading (in the case of the black lidded outlet) is potentially very desirable. My Starmix (branded "CS Unitec") vac features a strikingly similar type of spring loaded lid over the tool outlet and it can be a little annoying to actuate in the vertical orientation. I'll keep your suggestion in mind.  

 

[Cheese]

Even just rotating it 90 degrees makes life easier.

 

[peter halle]

Even the receptacle covers on the CT vacs can be pulled off and rotated.  Can help support the cord and keep it plugged in in certain instances.  #festoolsedge did a recent instagram post on this to follow up with the training classes over the years.

Peter

 

[Dick Mahany]

Even the receptacle covers on the CT vans can be pulled off and rotated.  Can help support the cord and keep in plugged in in certain instances.  #festoolsedge did a recent instagram post on this to follow up with the training classes over the years.

Peter

I saw that great tip from Sedge only last week and immediately went out and rotated the one on my CT36 180.  I really don't care for the two handed requirement when plugging in tools and that is why I used standard outlets. Sedge has some great stuff out there.

 

[GPowers]

What about buying the UK 220v version and then converting it to USA 110v plugs and re-wire it to 110 Volts. That way you get the recessed front and the interior plastic wiring divider.  True it would be a little expensive but you would have the Power hub and it would be a 110V USA version.  [big grin]

 

[Naildrivingman]

Even the receptacle covers on the CT vans can be pulled off and rotated.  Can help support the cord and keep in plugged in in certain instances.  #festoolsedge did a recent instagram post on this to follow up with the training classes over the years.

Peter

And here I thought I had a million dollar idea....sheesh that festoolsedge guy!

 

[GPowers]

 

[TinyShop]

Greg - Mic drop!

 

[kevin clifford]

Damn Greg, that looks fantastic!