1400 Router Small Bore Sub-plate

[Birdhunter]

I started a tread on the 1400 table widener, but I thought my alternate solution might be useful.

I didn't like the foot that is supplied with the 1400 to level the router while running it off the guide rail.

I bought the small bore sub-plate for my 1400 hoping it would be a better solution.

It is. Using the rail guide and the router just OFF the rail, the small bore sub-plate appears to exactly level the router. The foot isn't required. The small bore sub-plate snaps into the router's base. You don't have to remove the standard base. Neat solution and a lot cheaper than the table widener.

 

[mouppe]

The most common use for router with a guide rail is to route dadoes and grooves, so the small-bore base is perfect for this as the bits are small in diameter. The table widener is more for useful for edge routing, which can involve large bits that don't fit in the small-bore base.

I think you found the best solution for the guide rail though.

 

[cgmojoco]

Is the small bore sub-plate only compatible with the 1400?

 

[tbellemare]

Is the small bore sub-plate only compatible with the 1400?

Yes it is, they all mount differently. There is an equivalent for the 2200 and there is also a special base that makes the 2200 work with the guide rails.

Tom

 

[cgmojoco]

Thanks Tom; you wouldn't happen to have the 2200 and 1010 part numbers would you (assuming it also is available for the 1010).

I might very well already have one and just not know!

 

[cgmojoco]

Nevermind, think I figured it out...
Assuming for 2200 all of the bases you are referring to come in the base accessory kit.
And for the 1010 an option is product 488756

 

[tbellemare]

I think you've got it, Christopher...

In the image below, are shown the various components of the accessory kit for the 2200:

[attachimg=#1]

The middle one on the bottom row is the small bore and the left one is the guide rail compensator.

Tom

 

[Corwin]

I started a tread on the 1400 table widener, but I thought my alternate solution might be useful.

I didn't like the foot that is supplied with the 1400 to level the router while running it off the guide rail.

I bought the small bore sub-plate for my 1400 hoping it would be a better solution.

It is. Using the rail guide and the router just OFF the rail, the small bore sub-plate appears to exactly level the router. The foot isn't required. The small bore sub-plate snaps into the router's base. You don't have to remove the standard base. Neat solution and a lot cheaper than the table widener.

This is not correct, and you may notice that your resulting dadoes are not quite plumb with your work.  The small bore snap-in base would need to be another 2mm thicker to level out the OF1400 when on the rail.  You may want to look back at some of the older threads here that discuss this...

 

[MrToolJunkie]

The video Shane just uploaded in the how too section shows the small bore base snapped into the standard base and using it on the rail without the support foot.  It looks like it is level to me.  I do not know since I do not own an OF1400, but it looks like it works to me.

Scot

 

[Corwin]

The video Shane just uploaded in the how too section shows the small bore base snapped into the standard base and using it on the rail without the support foot.  It looks like it is level to me.  I do not know since I do not own an OF1400, but it looks like it works to me.

Scot

Despite what that video shows, the small bore base is just not thick enough to truly level out the OF1400.  I do have these products and have checked this very aspect and have to say that the video is in error.  Using the small bore base will get you close to level, but in no way is it exactly level -- the inside edge of the router will be a little higher than the outer edge if used this way.

On Edit:  This has all been discussed here years ago.  The best answer would be to find something 2mm thick and add that to the small bore snap-in base.

 

[Birdhunter]

I yield to the more scientific posters. It looked flat to me.

I wonder if a strip of the adhesive backed slippery tape would finish the job (fill the remaining gap?).