220V Extension Cord - Recommendations?

[jordanrossbell]

Is this a safe practice? I just moved from my 5 car garage shop with 3 220V circuits installed prior to moving in and now have moved to temporary housing until my shop is built. I have a table saw, jointer, planer, dust collector and band saw that all are on 220V power. The landlord has given me some latitude to put in 2 220V circuits if i use his electrician. However, I want to be able to be flexible on my tool placement while here. Is there a particular brand/item or does anyone employ 220V heavy duty extension cords to their tools located in the middle of a garage/shop? Thanks

My apologies if this is a basic/dumb question, I just dont know much about electrical.

 

[Crazyraceguy]

AFAIK, it is not exactly a good idea, but people do it. In general, keep it short and use bigger gauge wire than the usual recommendation.

 

[Sparktrician]

There's nothing wrong with using 240 volt extension cords PROVIDED THAT THEY ARE PROPERLY SIZED TO CARRY THE NECESSARY CURRENT. 
Use 14 gauge for 15 amps.
Use 12 gauge for 20 amps.
Use 10 gauge for 30 amps.
Use 8 gauge for 40 amps.
Use 6 gauge for 55 amps.
Use 4 gauge for 70 amps.
Just keep in mind that under ideal circumstances, it takes less than 1/10th of one amp to kill a full-size human.  Act accordingly. 

 

[Mini Me]

Never use it coiled on a reel for any heavy current draw machinery

 

[rvieceli]

Making your own is not difficult if you can follow directions. Lowes or Home Depot usually has everything you need.

Power cord is different from house wiring, SOOW cord is made for your application

If you decide to purchase ready made, there are some cords that have the appropriately rated plug ends but downsize the wire. So pay attention to all the specs.

Ron

 

[mattgam]

Vevor has a bunch of options 220V extension cords

 

[Cheese]

I'd check with Miller or Hobart, I'm sure they offer extension cords for their welders.  Also Trick Tools, Lincoln or Eastman may offer the same.

Here, I just googled Eastman and this popped up.  [smile]
https://www.eastwood.com/eastwood-4...ickedid=629947573324&wickedsource=google&wv=4

 

[jordanrossbell]

I ran across a lot of welder extension cord, however looking at the plugs i dont appreciate that it is accepting of a 220V plug that is common on woodworking machines. Any thoughts on that?

 

[jonnyrocket]

I ran across a lot of welder extension cord, however looking at the plugs i dont appreciate that it is accepting of a 220V plug that is common on woodworking machines. Any thoughts on that?

The most straight forward thing to do would be to ask the electrician to make a cord for you that will work with your tools and the outlet type that he installs. He will know exactly which cord ends to get for you and the correct size of cable.

The other option is to wait for him to install the outlets and then you can post pictures of the outlets and the cord ends on your tools. With that information we can point you to the correct items to buy. But you would need to make up the cord on your own. 

 

[Ron B]

The plugs are different to prevent you from plugging a 50 amp tool into a 30 amp outlet and causing a meltdown.  However, I believe I saw in Menards a bunch of pigtail converters-to allow you to go the other way and plug a 30 amp tool into a 50 amp outlet.  The welding  extension cord is probably very high amperage.  With the adapter, running a lower amp tool on a higher amp extension cord would not be an problem.  (assuming wiring in wall is heavy enough). 

 

[rmhinden]

I currently use these:

Parkworld 885750 NEMA 6-20 Extension Cord 6-20P to 6-20R (T Blade Female Also for 6-15R Adapter) 250V, 20A, 5000W (10FT)https://a.co/d/iRlW0SD

Parkworld 885767 NEMA 6-20 Extension Cord 6-20P to 6-20R (T Blade Female Also for 6-15R Adapter) 250V, 20A, 5000W (16FT)https://a.co/d/csCfkNe

Bob

 

[Coen]

Are American amps different? We use 1.5mm^2 (=16 gauge) extension cords for everything up to and including 16A. However, you have to keep in mind that you need to keep a sufficiently low impedance at the end so a short circuit will always trigger the MCB's magnetic protection and not it's thermal protection. For longer distances or when the voltage sag becomes crucial 2.5mm^2 is used.

We happily run a 40 meter long 1.5mm^2 extension cord to use with table saw, vac and lights at the same time.

However, for sustained load... please do unroll the reel.  [tongue]

Just keep in mind that under ideal circumstances, it takes less than 1/10th of one amp to kill a full-size human.  Act accordingly.

American plug designs are faulty by design, allowing easy access to live pins from the side.

The sharp blades vs nice rounded pins is also a cutting disaster.

Either way; use 30 mA RCDs.

 

[Michael Kellough]

“Are American amps different?‘

No, but voltage is different.

1300 watts divided by 220 volts = ~ 6 amps, so a lightweight power cord is fine.

1300 watts divided by 110 volts = ~ 12 amps, so a heavier cord is needed.

 

[waho6o9]

View attachment 1

How about a  220 volt spider box since it's temporary anyway?

Just a thought.

 

[Coen]

“Are American amps different?‘

No, but voltage is different.

1300 watts divided by 220 volts = ~ 6 amps, so a lightweight power cord is fine.

1300 watts divided by 110 volts = ~ 12 amps, so a heavier cord is needed.

Yes I know. I was taking on the list of [member=7493]Sparktrician[/member]

 

[Michael Kellough]

“Are American amps different?‘

No, but voltage is different.

1300 watts divided by 220 volts = ~ 6 amps, so a lightweight power cord is fine.

1300 watts divided by 110 volts = ~ 12 amps, so a heavier cord is needed.

Yes I know. I was taking on the list of [member=7493]Sparktrician[/member]

“We use 1.5mm^2 (=16 gauge) extension cords for everything up to and including 16A”

Wow [blink] 16 amps of 220volts is 3500 watts. Do you even have anything that pulls that much? A heater? Does the cord get hot when carrying that much current?

 

[Sparktrician]

“Are American amps different?‘

No, but voltage is different.

1300 watts divided by 220 volts = ~ 6 amps, so a lightweight power cord is fine.

1300 watts divided by 110 volts = ~ 12 amps, so a heavier cord is needed.

Yes I know. I was taking on the list of [member=7493]Sparktrician[/member]

The recommendations in my message are for copper wire (not aluminum) as delineated in the NFPA's NEC Ampacity Workflow chart, Table 310.16 on page 3 in the most conservative cases.  As for the formula, it's standard around the world - P=EI where P equates to Power in watts, E equates to Energy in Volts, and I equates to Intensity in amps.  This holds true even in the UK where they speak funny.  [big grin]  To use the OF 2200 as an example, here in the US where the standard voltage can range from 110 VAC to 125 VAC, the OF 2200 can draw 17.6 amps at 125 VAC, but 20 amps at 110 VAC, so the higher current draw at 110 VAC mandates the use of 12 gauge copper wiring per the National Electrical Code (NEC), which is echoed in the NFPA document referenced. 

[member=297]Michael Kellough[/member], I'd suggest that you revise your work practice and migrate to 20 12 gauge wiring ASAP for the use case you mentioned.  16 Gauge wiring is not even mentioned in the chart referenced above.  Stay safe!  We have enough smoky days these days and don't need your "burnt offerings"...  [tongue] 

Please note the correction in red.  That's what I get for doing too many things at one time.  [embarassed]

 

[Coen]

[member=7493]Sparktrician[/member]
Without having completely read the 3 page PDF; it looks like that applies to fixed installations, not extension cords.

It also doesn't differentiate between a lot of different methods of installation.

For example. If we take the list of 18 to 8 AWG 3-wire loaded 90 degree cable, it lists these currents;
18
25
30
40
55

Compare that to what we have here for 3-wire 90 degree (C) cables, directly buried;
23
30
39
49
65

The current ratings from that document are very close (slightly above) for what we have for 'wire in conduit in thermal insulation'. Nowhere near applicable for having an exposed extension cord.

And still; those tables are for 3-wire loads, not simple 2-wire loads which would be the case in the question from [member=75204]jordanrossbell[/member] . The current rating would again increase ~17%

Eaton's 20A isolator switch doesn't even allow for 4mm^2 (12 gauge) wiring to be connected btw.

“Are American amps different?‘

No, but voltage is different.

1300 watts divided by 220 volts = ~ 6 amps, so a lightweight power cord is fine.

1300 watts divided by 110 volts = ~ 12 amps, so a heavier cord is needed.

Yes I know. I was taking on the list of [member=7493]Sparktrician[/member]

“We use 1.5mm^2 (=16 gauge) extension cords for everything up to and including 16A”

Wow [blink] 16 amps of 220volts is 3500 watts. Do you even have anything that pulls that much? A heater? Does the cord get hot when carrying that much current?

Cooktops, ovens, dish washers, boilers; lots of stuff that draws 16A perfectly fine over 1.5mm^2. The cord can get warm, but so what. Better than having this huge anaconda as an extension cord. Unless you have an insanely high % of utilization you are not gonna earn back the extra investment either. For solar panel installations it's different; you base it own return on investment. 4mm^2 cable often makes financial sense even if 1.5mm^2 would still be within limits.

Festool CTL's come with an 1.5mm^2 cord and have a 2400W rated outlet on them, per official Festool specs.

 

[Sparktrician]

[member=7493]Sparktrician[/member]
Without having completely read the 3 page PDF; it looks like that applies to fixed installations, not extension cords.

It also doesn't differentiate between a lot of different methods of installation.

For example. If we take the list of 18 to 8 AWG 3-wire loaded 90 degree cable, it lists these currents;
18
25
30
40
55

Compare that to what we have here for 3-wire 90 degree (C) cables, directly buried;
23
30
39
49
65

The current ratings from that document are very close (slightly above) for what we have for 'wire in conduit in thermal insulation'. Nowhere near applicable for having an exposed extension cord.

And still; those tables are for 3-wire loads, not simple 2-wire loads which would be the case in the question from [member=75204]jordanrossbell[/member] . The current rating would again increase ~17%

Eaton's 20A isolator switch doesn't even allow for 4mm^2 (12 gauge) wiring to be connected btw.

“Are American amps different?‘

No, but voltage is different.

1300 watts divided by 220 volts = ~ 6 amps, so a lightweight power cord is fine.

1300 watts divided by 110 volts = ~ 12 amps, so a heavier cord is needed.

Yes I know. I was taking on the list of [member=7493]Sparktrician[/member]

“We use 1.5mm^2 (=16 gauge) extension cords for everything up to and including 16A”

Wow [blink] 16 amps of 220volts is 3500 watts. Do you even have anything that pulls that much? A heater? Does the cord get hot when carrying that much current?

Cooktops, ovens, dish washers, boilers; lots of stuff that draws 16A perfectly fine over 1.5mm^2. The cord can get warm, but so what. Better than having this huge anaconda as an extension cord. Unless you have an insanely high % of utilization you are not gonna earn back the extra investment either. For solar panel installations it's different; you base it own return on investment. 4mm^2 cable often makes financial sense even if 1.5mm^2 would still be within limits.

Festool CTL's come with an 1.5mm^2 cord and have a 2400W rated outlet on them, per official Festool specs.

[member=8955]Coen[/member], the table referenced is "Ampacities of Insulated Conductors with Not More Than Three Current-Carrying Conductors in Raceway, Cable, or Earth (Directly Buried)".  Due to the limited ventilation (heat dissipation) of enclosed cable, the table gives a margin for safety.  An inspector told me many years ago to go with the ampacities specified, just in case someone inadvertently causes the ventilation for portable cable to be compromised, and that this advice applied to cable inside wall plenums.  I've heeded that advice and have never had to do any rework per inspectors' instructions.  I'd much rather be safe than smoking...

 

[squall_line]

[member=297]Michael Kellough[/member], I'd suggest that you revise your work practice and migrate to 20 gauge wiring ASAP for the use case you mentioned.  16 Gauge wiring is not even mentioned in the chart referenced above.  Stay safe!  We have enough smoky days these days and don't need your "burnt offerings"...  [tongue]

(emphasis mine)

Do you mean 14 or 12 gauge?  Moving from 16 to 20 seems to be going in the wrong direction if the goal is to not light insulation on fire...

Also, this video is informative and entertaining, possibly more the latter than the former, but not misleading, either.