220V in your shop?

Do the variable speeds in most of Festool's line constitute VFDs or are they controlled differently?
 
I just reviewed the relevant section in my NEC2005 Handbook and I agree with your posting.  There is no indication that a 240V branch circuit would be exempt.  You could easily make the argument, however, that your 240V equipment is "not easily moved from one place to another and that it is cord-and-plug connected in accordance with 400.7(A)(6), (A)(7), or (A)(8)" [NEC2005 210.8(A)(2.2)].  You would therefore fall under the exemption.  I know for a fact that my electrical inspector in Colorado Springs agreed with my interpretation and allowed my non-GFCI 240V circuits.  I suppose it depends on your inspector.  Best case, you pass with a $7 breaker.  Worst case you have to drop the $xxx for the 240V GFCI and drop it in the panel.  Nothing else would have to change.  Just keep your receipts.
 
Brandon,

I like the way you think.  You convinced me!  (I'm so easy!) ;D  As you say, it's minimal risk at worst.

Thanks,

Dan.
 
Dan,

Yes, that's correct. One of my lathes is 240 and the other 120. Neither will work on a GFI circuit.

Greg,

VFDs are for induction motors. All Festools are universal motors and the speed control is a completely different system.
 
I am not an electrician, but I have equpped the workshop/garage in two houses with a 230-240V GFI breaker, and then ran 12/3 w/grd to several wall boxes, then wired some of them so that the upper and lower receptacles were on separate legs of the 230V.  The first was passed by the Summit County Ohio building inspector; the second by the City of Akron inspector.  I am not certain this arrangement meets code, but it has worked for me without any problems, and I have tripped the GFI when cleaning out a sump pump clogged with debris (not a locked armature).  The advantage of this arrangement is two fold: (1) any outlet can be fitted with a duplex receptacle in which each leg can supply 20 A at 120V to a tool or up to 20A at 240V, and (2) when you plug one tool into the upper 120V receptacle and another into the lower receptacle and run them at the same time (as I often used to do running a router and a Craftsman vacuum at the same time), the current losses through the wiring are cut in half compared to normal circuits (assuming each of the two tools is drawing the same Amperage.  For the first garage/shop the double-pole GFI breaker was a special order from Square D, but that was 30 years ago.  For the second garage/shop, all of the service entry and distribution equipment was from Siemens.

The Akron electrical inspector would normally only allow a single 230V outlet on a circuit, without GFI, e.g. for a compressor or dust collector or table saw.  He and the electrician questioned my idea, and each tested it and found everything worked.  I don't know if there are any potential adverse induction issues as can occur when unbalanced circuit legs are arranged inside metal conduct that is grounded.

Dave R.
 
Instead of buying a 240V GFCI breaker, couldn't you just hardwire the large equipment with a disconnect box?

No outlet = No GFCI????
 
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