24 Dominoes Later...

Nice table, David!  I have seen poplar finished to mimic more expensive wood - walnut and rosewood.  The rosewood version was stained and then had the black grain applied with a turkey feather and then laquered for duarbility.  Tedious, but beautiful.
 
Love your work David.
Thanks for posting and keep those posts and photos coming.

Thank you

Yuri
 
Great looking table David.  What are the overall dimensions  LxWxH.  Also, I assume the horizontal rails are 3/4" stock and the legs look to be 2x2's at a full 2 inches,  is that correct??
 
It just kills me when I hear poplar getting bad press.  It works great, is economical, takes paint well, and ---- in the right hands can be stained to look like a number of other woods.  It is tricky to stain to even colors.  I look forward to viewing Charles' videos.
 
Yeah there are recipes to get Poplar to look like many woods. One I had was to get that dark Pennsylvania cherry color. I lost it, probably on the net somewhere. It is also considered high end for painted trim.
 
Yuri said:
Love your work David.
Thanks for posting and keep those posts and photos coming.

Thanks, Yuri. I plan to keep posting until they take my keys away! :)
 
RDMuller said:
Great looking table David.  What are the overall dimensions   LxWxH.   Also, I assume the horizontal rails are 3/4" stock and the legs look to be 2x2's at a full 2 inches,  is that correct??

Thanks for the kind compliment!

It's 25" deep by 15" wide by 24" high. And yes, the legs were made of 8/4 poplar, thickness planed down to 44mm. Then I used the table saw to cut tapers into two of the four sides.
 
Yuri said:
Love your work David.
Thanks for posting and keep those posts and photos coming.

Thank you

Yuri

I'll add on -- I've said it before but David no doubt likes to hear it often -- I really enjoy your wonderfully detailed posts, you are an incredibly multi-talented guy!
 
What a nice job!  Wish I could do that with my Domino.

Were all the joints done on the Domino?

This class you mentioned, do you know if any are available in the UK?  They sound good fun.  We can have Festool reps do demonstrations but I do no think I'd like these due to the pressurised selling they may use.  Are the classes you attend purely for education rather than generating sales?

Russ

 
Thanks! Yes, all the joints were done with dominoes. The class I attended was at the Festool US headquarters. It was about teaching, though you obviously leave the class wanting more products! :)
 
Very nice work, David!

David said:
Poplar is so much fun to work in. It doesn't split easily, forms like butter, cheap, available at the big box store, etc. Too bad it looks like poplar.  [cool]

Don't underestimate Tulip/Yellow Poplar...it can be outstanding as a "mimic" wood when dyed and finished appropriately. I build a lot of stuff from poplar and outside of some face frames in the kitchen, non has been painted. There are a lot of "religious" discussions about this in the various forums, but I'll continue to stand by this species...and I have 1500 bd ft more of it drying out back 'as we speak'.

And, buying it at the 'borg is darn expensive compared to sourcing it though a real lumber supplier!
 
David said:
Poplar is so much fun to work in. It doesn't split easily, forms like butter, cheap, available at the big box store, etc. Too bad it looks like poplar.  [cool]

You'd be surprised what a little stain can do to make poplar not look so, well, poplar-y.

 
russ_1380 said:
This class you mentioned, do you know if any are available in the UK?  They sound good fun.  We can have Festool reps do demonstrations but I do no think I'd like these due to the pressurised selling they may use.  Are the classes you attend purely for education rather than generating sales?

Russ,

Festool UK do not offer these type of classes. It would be great if they did though!

As for the demos by the Festool reps, you should try one. You won't get the hard-sell from any Festool rep, I can virtually guarantee it. The demos are usually timed to coincide with new tool launches, but recently they've started doing 'Festool Surgeries', which basically means that the rep will be available to answer any questions you have, and to show you any tool you like. You can have a go yourself. Also, you can take in any Festool you own and have things demo'd on your own machine if you prefer.

Whereabouts in the UK are you?

JRB
 
Ah JRB

That sound better.  I am based in the NorthWest (Southport/Liverpool).  The tool dealer I normally go to for Festool is up in Chorley (only about 45mins away so not too bad).  He has a rep there so I might be interested sometime.

The surgery thing you mention sounds useful.  I never feel I'm getting the full potential out of my Festools yet as there are so many possibilities for use!
 
russ_1380 said:
Ah JRB

That sound better.  I am based in the NorthWest (Southport/Liverpool).  The tool dealer I normally go to for Festool is up in Chorley (only about 45mins away so not too bad).  He has a rep there so I might be interested sometime.

The surgery thing you mention sounds useful.  I never feel I'm getting the full potential out of my Festools yet as there are so many possibilities for use!

I know the feeling!
Great as they are, Festool as a company, seems to let themselves down when it comes to user manuals and advertising/explaining just how versatile and useful the tools and system are, they seem happy to just brush the surface. [blink]

Thankfully we have access to the FOG and lots of members experiences to fill in some of the blanks. ;D

Rob.
 
Very nice! You all are changing my mind about poplar.

That's a good thing. For one of the reasons I haven't seen mentioned yet is the fact that yellow poplar (Liriodendron tulipifera) is very stable, much more so then your average hardwood like oak or cherry.
For rail and stile furniture doors and such, this is an invaluable asset.
Cuts almost as easily using handtool as basswood, but the result is more dimensionally stable. Technical modelmakers love it, and so do patternmakers.
It's important that it's slowly dried, for it will warp when dried too fast, but once it's properly dried it's very stable. Add to that the ease of work and the low abrasion (cutting tools keep their edges) and you have a winner.
Not a jack-of-all-trades wood, but certainly deserving more credit then it usually gets.

Regards,

Job
 
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