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- Thread starter Cochese
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thedude306
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I can't speak to the LR32 system itself as I don't have it. I have the bosch equivalent and I have the rockler jig and a veratis jig...
The cost is high, really high on the LR32 from Festool, but I can tell you the time and PITA factor with setting up and using the other jigs justifies the cost (well for my Bosch FSN OFA 32) I can only assume (I know, I know....) that the festool would add the same ease of use and absolute perfection for hole alignment.
I just plunged 180+ holes in a book case I'm making and it took less then 7 minutes (I know because I timed it)
Untitled by thedude306, on Flickr
That's setting up the router, setting the depth, attaching rails, clamping etc. I also did the dados with the rails.
The cost is high, really high on the LR32 from Festool, but I can tell you the time and PITA factor with setting up and using the other jigs justifies the cost (well for my Bosch FSN OFA 32) I can only assume (I know, I know....) that the festool would add the same ease of use and absolute perfection for hole alignment.
I just plunged 180+ holes in a book case I'm making and it took less then 7 minutes (I know because I timed it)
Untitled by thedude306, on FlickrThat's setting up the router, setting the depth, attaching rails, clamping etc. I also did the dados with the rails.
[member=26457]Cochese[/member] do you own a Domino already?
I'm in a similar dilemma as you, and have been looking at alternatives. I only recently learned that the Mafell Duo Doweller is 32mm spacing and has an available guide rail that makes LR32 even simpler than the holey rail solution. Given that it does great joinery as well, for $900-so, the Mafell seems like the more cost effective solution when considering all its capabilities. (Edit: didn't realize the guide rail was not included in the price, it's a $230 accessory, but seems like a really strong addition for even regular joinery)
If you already own a Domino though, you'd be duplicating some functionality, though a Domino would be better suited for small things like balusters.
They demonstrate guide rail use around the 7 minute mark:
I'm in a similar dilemma as you, and have been looking at alternatives. I only recently learned that the Mafell Duo Doweller is 32mm spacing and has an available guide rail that makes LR32 even simpler than the holey rail solution. Given that it does great joinery as well, for $900-so, the Mafell seems like the more cost effective solution when considering all its capabilities. (Edit: didn't realize the guide rail was not included in the price, it's a $230 accessory, but seems like a really strong addition for even regular joinery)
If you already own a Domino though, you'd be duplicating some functionality, though a Domino would be better suited for small things like balusters.
They demonstrate guide rail use around the 7 minute mark:
waho6o9
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HTH
The LR32 requires some thinking to use until you get used to using it. The manual it comes with is all but worthless, but there are other sources available on Festool's and other website. Once tuned it the result are great. The only real issue I have with it is that after you drill the holes on the front you have to rotate and slide the template so that the rear holes will line up with front holes. It takes some getting used to and definitely can be confusing to the novice or infrequent user.
The results are better than almost every other solution except for dedicated machines that can drill banks of holes at once. The Mafell Domino equivalent looks interesting if it can be used for shelf holes. There rail is particularly interesting as it looks like there would be less chance of misalignment when moving from the back to front.
The results are better than almost every other solution except for dedicated machines that can drill banks of holes at once. The Mafell Domino equivalent looks interesting if it can be used for shelf holes. There rail is particularly interesting as it looks like there would be less chance of misalignment when moving from the back to front.
[member=7659]waho6o9[/member]
Nice jig and it is really simple. The one thing that always confused me in putting in shelf pin holes is that it seems everyone puts one at the top where you would never put a shelf. I usually come down 12" and put three or five holes, one at 12" and one or two above and below. I personally think it looks better, and have never had anyone say they wished they had hole higher or lower.
Thanks again for sharing. Bill
Nice jig and it is really simple. The one thing that always confused me in putting in shelf pin holes is that it seems everyone puts one at the top where you would never put a shelf. I usually come down 12" and put three or five holes, one at 12" and one or two above and below. I personally think it looks better, and have never had anyone say they wished they had hole higher or lower.
Thanks again for sharing. Bill
waho6o9
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You're welcome Bill!
GhostFist
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A note on the duo dowel machine, the guide is not needed for shelf pins if they are spaced from the edge within the limits of the fence. Even still, you don't necessarily need guide for that either just a straight edge to butt the fence to. Dd40 comes with various distancing pins that will keep you at 32mm spacing.
thedude306
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One thing to consider is the indexing on a DIY model. You have to be very accurate unless you make your holes in "sets" And depending on how your rail is made you often flip it over to do the other side, making any errors x2. I started off with two 800mm holy rails and have since added a 1600mm holy rail as well. That gives me 3200mm of continuous, accurate hole making without moving the jig. I find this feature important for tall bookcases or large pantries.
I like that t-track version above. One of the things I like about the bosch FSN system is it has a spacer that indexes of the bottom side of the track. (it goes on the 32mm spacing holes in the track) This ensures that both sets of holes are the same distance from the bottom of the board. It makes it quick and you don't measure a thing.
I like that t-track version above. One of the things I like about the bosch FSN system is it has a spacer that indexes of the bottom side of the track. (it goes on the 32mm spacing holes in the track) This ensures that both sets of holes are the same distance from the bottom of the board. It makes it quick and you don't measure a thing.
One alternative is not to spend $495 for the complete kit in a systainer. I bought just the sled, Part No. 494340. It's $124 today. I bought a 55" holey rail and I made my own edge stops and end stops. That makes the total cost $253.
A systainer is always nice but for me it was far from essential. I just put the stuff in a drawer. I've never taken it in the field.
People have made their own sleds. For me, at $124 for the sled and centering mandrel, I just took the easier path.
You can use any kind of edge stop to locate the guide rail. I made a couple of gizmos that resemble the Festool version but really just blocks of wood with a lip will do. You can make any number of homemade edge stops for various setups.
The Festool end stops were not right for me anyway because I use the Blum Process32 boring pattern. The Process 32 system is optimized for Blum Tandem drawer glides which is about all I use. It gets that bottom drawer as close to the bottom as it can be. So I made my own end stops. Again, mine are similar to Festool, just set up for Process 32.
The $253 vs. $119 for the Meg Econo Bore. With the Meg you have to lift the router out of a hole and find the next. That was my decision. It was well worth $134 to not have to do that. The LR32 is fun to use.
A systainer is always nice but for me it was far from essential. I just put the stuff in a drawer. I've never taken it in the field.
People have made their own sleds. For me, at $124 for the sled and centering mandrel, I just took the easier path.
You can use any kind of edge stop to locate the guide rail. I made a couple of gizmos that resemble the Festool version but really just blocks of wood with a lip will do. You can make any number of homemade edge stops for various setups.
The Festool end stops were not right for me anyway because I use the Blum Process32 boring pattern. The Process 32 system is optimized for Blum Tandem drawer glides which is about all I use. It gets that bottom drawer as close to the bottom as it can be. So I made my own end stops. Again, mine are similar to Festool, just set up for Process 32.
The $253 vs. $119 for the Meg Econo Bore. With the Meg you have to lift the router out of a hole and find the next. That was my decision. It was well worth $134 to not have to do that. The LR32 is fun to use.
If you are just drilling / routing shelf pin holes and want an effective simple to use jig check out the Woodhaven offerings. There are a ton of jigs on the market but the Woodhaven are accurate , well made, and quick and easy to use. Price is right too. I have a couple of them. I have used them for all the units I have built. The same jigs can be used with a router or drill, making them versatile. Available in a couple lengths in 1" or 32mm spacing. I use them with the OF1400 or with a centering bit in my drill.
Seth
Seth
Cochese said:
I bought just the $124 set with the sled mandrel and the 55" guide. I couldn't use the end stop because I literally never start the first hole where Festool wants you to. I use the Blum Process32 boring pattern most of the time because it's designed for Blum Tandem drawer glides which I use almost exclusively.
Here's my set up.
[attachthumb=1]
As you can see, you can easily build end and edge stops. My edge stops are too elaborate, I would recommend just using a piece of scrap with a lip nailed on it to catch the side of the work piece.
I keep it in the box it came in and that is adequate. Except for my silly over the top edge stops.
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