45 Degree Miter Cut with Kapex or Router?

[Intex]

I have 4 White Oak boards 1" thick x 12" wide that I need to joind with MITER JOINTS. Would I get more precise miters  using a Kapex with the head tilted to the left or right 45 degrees, or a router table with a 45 degree chamfer bit ?

 

[ChuckM]

Router bit, though properly tuned and used with skill, the Kapex should be able to handle a mitre job (up to 10" (or 12"?) boards in width) reasonably well.

 

[Svar]

If you choose router bit, make sure it's actually 45 degree. I found that sometimes 45 chamfer bits are little off.

 

[Michael Kellough]

For thick hardwood I’d use a lock-miter bit. Be sure it can work 1” thick stock.

 

[Intex]

I just purchassed a Infinity Mega Bit that will route up to 1 1/8". Since im going to use Dominoes, I wont need a Lock Bit
Thanks all!

 

[Michael Kellough]

Assembly/clamping is at least 4 times easier with lock miters.

 

[Svar]

Assembly/clamping is at least 4 times easier with lock miters.

But they show on the edges.

 

[Birdhunter]

Are the boards flat and true. Been through a jointer and a planer?

If so, I’d use the Kapex and I would make the first cut a little past the mark then the second cut takes a whisker off right off the mark. The two cut method eliminates the wood grain moving the saw blade off the intended cut.

 

[serge0n]

If so, I’d use the Kapex and I would make the first cut a little past the mark then the second cut takes a whisker off right off the mark. The two cut method eliminates the wood grain moving the saw blade off the intended cut.

What he said.

I just built a solid beam looking mantel that is actually a walnut box without the back, I used 3 way miters to make sure top smoothly transitions to side and then to the bottom.

I used Kapex for all miter cuts, creeping up on the cut line. Everything was spot on. All lumber was milled on all sides.

 

[Intex]

Thanks for the advice on the Kapex, I just ordered the Chamfer bit, so Ill try that first and see how it goes.

 

[Intex]

I tried it with the Kapex, and it was a disaster, for some reason it doesnt like cutting thru 3" thick white maple at a 45 degree cut.
I then tried the 45 degree chamfer bit, and it was just too much to cut in one pass, so I gut it first on the kapex to about 50% of the required cut, then did the rest on the router table with sacrificial board on top to guide it and JesseM roller feather bosrd on top of it all.
It still did not come DEAD PERFECT, but with some sanding it may be fine.

After finishing the C-Shaped end table, I must have taken too many cuts, so the vertical piece came out 1.5" too short, andf if I use it with a taller chair, it is about 5" too short. Has anyone tried to cut a board in half, then extend it using two S/Steel flat stockpieces imbedded into the bottom half, and running loose in slots in the top half?

I want to use the tables (3) as work tables or dinner tables while Im watching TV on favorite chairs, but the favs both have arms at different hieghts.

See attached sketch