Woodwork Wizard
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8'x4' MFT and MFT/3s
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BristolDan
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Any more images of the 13' table and cross cut setup on it?
Woodwork Wizard
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Nice one Ron and BristolDan;
Any more images of the 13' table and cross cut setup on it?
There's some photos below but here's a brief description. It's two MFT/3s together with a 1400 rail, giving 906mm crosscut capacity with up to 1080mm maximum by moving the fence further back. 2440mm table capacity to the left of the splinter guard and about 1400 from the right. All the additional stuff such as extension tables cost next to nothing and can be set up or removed very quickly as it's all done with t-bolts.
It's very accurate for cross cutting and routing multiple repeatable dado housings and rebates in cabinet and bookcase sides with the extra flag stops. It can also reproduce MFT/3 table inserts with the LR-32 rail. I think the most significant modification is the hardwood fence for sawing but especially for routing. It has many functions and benefits. I set the router depth from it and it shows me exactly where the dado will be in the board. I would not use an MFT without one. A MM scale on the fence is a must too.
If there's anything I've missed or you'd like to know let me know...
Any more images of the 13' table and cross cut setup on it?
There's some photos below but here's a brief description. It's two MFT/3s together with a 1400 rail, giving 906mm crosscut capacity with up to 1080mm maximum by moving the fence further back. 2440mm table capacity to the left of the splinter guard and about 1400 from the right. All the additional stuff such as extension tables cost next to nothing and can be set up or removed very quickly as it's all done with t-bolts.
It's very accurate for cross cutting and routing multiple repeatable dado housings and rebates in cabinet and bookcase sides with the extra flag stops. It can also reproduce MFT/3 table inserts with the LR-32 rail. I think the most significant modification is the hardwood fence for sawing but especially for routing. It has many functions and benefits. I set the router depth from it and it shows me exactly where the dado will be in the board. I would not use an MFT without one. A MM scale on the fence is a must too.
If there's anything I've missed or you'd like to know let me know...
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sancho57
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You mean y only have 9 flag stops? I thought for sure you had at least 10-15.
I got 8 I need to buy a couple more. Oh and the tape to add on the MFT fence.
What's been holding me back from getting the tape is the ability to repeat when I remove the fence. But I guess if you never remocpve the fence from the angle stops the scale wouldn't change its accuracy.
I got 8 I need to buy a couple more. Oh and the tape to add on the MFT fence.
What's been holding me back from getting the tape is the ability to repeat when I remove the fence. But I guess if you never remocpve the fence from the angle stops the scale wouldn't change its accuracy.
Woodwork Wizard
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9 MFT flag stops though there's 2 more that could be used on the Kapex UG but I doubt I ever will. On a few occasions I've had to use all of them when there were 9 shelves each requiring a dado in very tall bookcase sides, but this is rare. I also mark the flag stops with different colours of tape so I don't get mixed up with which ones I need to be using.
BristolDan
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WW, thanks for the images, benches both look excellent!
can you tell me more about the hardwood fence and where you got the tape for the festool extrusion.\
I am looking at how I can make my MFT more used as it was expensive and I'm just not using it as is...I have to constantly check for square and it always seems to be a touch out. Im not sure buying a second is the answer for me but if I can make mine more useful it will stay in the stable.
can you tell me more about the hardwood fence and where you got the tape for the festool extrusion.\
I am looking at how I can make my MFT more used as it was expensive and I'm just not using it as is...I have to constantly check for square and it always seems to be a touch out. Im not sure buying a second is the answer for me but if I can make mine more useful it will stay in the stable.
Woodwork Wizard
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BristolDan,
The MM scale on the fences is from Axminster, cost about £8.50 and is a UJK product.
The hardwood fence to the right of the guide rail is zero clearance so no chip-out on exiting cut, more dust is captured, it's a kerf indicator for both the saw and the router and is also my depth setting device for the router. Plunge the router in to this kerf and the depth is set exactly every time. It gives full support for the piece being cut/routed as it's now fully supported on both sides of the cut. It is also how I calibrate the scale on the fence to ensure the scale is precisely set by measuring from the saw kerf.
It's fixed to the MFT top with 4 x M6 bolts in to threaded inserts and precisely in line with the fence. The fence is held to the MFT with 2 protractors and 4 bench dogs behind it, so between the MFT fence and the DIY hardwood fence to the right of the guide rail this fence is absolutely solid and never ever moves. This table gets used for lots of big cabinets and bookcases etc. for crosscutting but probably more for routing housings and rebates and it's always been brilliant. The guide rail has a Slop Stop. I reckon the reason many can't make the MFT cut square and consistently cut square is the fence. The weird looking black plastic clip for the far end of the fence is probably the culprit. Or the wobbly legs. Install on a stable base. Dramatic improvement.
The idea for the additional fence was something I found in a Youtube video by Peter Halle, who described it as a game changer. It really is and it's just a small piece of wood, a few fixings, costs next to nothing and it takes minutes to do.
The MM scale on the fences is from Axminster, cost about £8.50 and is a UJK product.
The hardwood fence to the right of the guide rail is zero clearance so no chip-out on exiting cut, more dust is captured, it's a kerf indicator for both the saw and the router and is also my depth setting device for the router. Plunge the router in to this kerf and the depth is set exactly every time. It gives full support for the piece being cut/routed as it's now fully supported on both sides of the cut. It is also how I calibrate the scale on the fence to ensure the scale is precisely set by measuring from the saw kerf.
It's fixed to the MFT top with 4 x M6 bolts in to threaded inserts and precisely in line with the fence. The fence is held to the MFT with 2 protractors and 4 bench dogs behind it, so between the MFT fence and the DIY hardwood fence to the right of the guide rail this fence is absolutely solid and never ever moves. This table gets used for lots of big cabinets and bookcases etc. for crosscutting but probably more for routing housings and rebates and it's always been brilliant. The guide rail has a Slop Stop. I reckon the reason many can't make the MFT cut square and consistently cut square is the fence. The weird looking black plastic clip for the far end of the fence is probably the culprit. Or the wobbly legs. Install on a stable base. Dramatic improvement.
The idea for the additional fence was something I found in a Youtube video by Peter Halle, who described it as a game changer. It really is and it's just a small piece of wood, a few fixings, costs next to nothing and it takes minutes to do.
BristolDan
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Thank you for the above very helpful!!
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