A confession, down the rabbit hole and European tools on USA power (Mafell LO55)

[RoboDoc]

This feels a bit like a confession but here goes. For many years, I have been intrigued by the possibility of using European Festool tools (yeah...the ones that aren't adapted to North America) at home in USA using a voltage step up transformer. I never pulled the trigger on this experiment but perhaps some of you have and have insights. I have a 5000W step up transformer which has worked with several European appliances including a hair drier that demands 2000-2400 watts with no issues. In fact, that is exactly what these things are sold to do. So, provided that the tools can accommodate the 60 Hz rather than the 50 Hz frequency (which almost all seem to be able to accommodate from my research) this seems like a no problem situation.

So....then comes along the Mafell LO55 router. I have several festool routers and like them but this one had some very intriguing features so I went ahead and took the plunge. When plugged in the illumination light goes on and all features/controls seem to work but it gives me an error (solid red lights) when turning on the motor (which does not start). This error is supposed to be reversible but the manual for the Mafell is scanty to say the least. So now I am stuck. I don't know if this is just a faulty machine, a machine that is exquisitely sensitive to input frequency, or what else. It only pulls 1100 watts supposedly which is way under the limit for the transformer and about half of what the hair drier pulls (which works). I can't try a separate copy of the router naturally. I can't plug it into a standard European Mains outlet and my options for service are limited. So a few questions:

1. Has anyone tried using a European router (like a festool) using a voltage step-up transformer and what was your experience? I'm having a hard time reconciling why this wouldn't work since this is exactly what these transformers are designed to do.

2. Has anyone had this problem with the Mafell LO55 in Europe on standard Mains voltage who might be able to help me troubleshoot?

Thanks in advance.

 

[Scott in San Diego]

Mafell has " INTELLIGENT POWER CONTROL (IPC)" controlling speed under load and overload. To me, it seems logical that it may also sense frequency fluctuations and not allow large deviations from 50Hz.

 

[RoboDoc]

I bet you are correct (which is a bummer for me). Options for fixing that problem seem either a bit challenging and awkward (setting up a VFD) or too costly (commercial 60Hz -> 50Hz convertors). Wish there was an easy way to just test it on a 50Hz source to assure myself the machine isn't faulty before either giving up or throwing down more $ for one of those solutions.

 

[mino]

The easiest for clean 230V power source is to do DC-to-AC conversion.

Buy a proper 230V inverter like used on RVs. These are not all that expensive. You will need a battery, so attaching it to a solar system is probably the simplest ...

Though for just testing, a simple RV inverter for 12V will do as well.

From the professional folk:https://www.victronenergy.com/inverters/phoenix-inverter-vedirect-250va-800va

From the quick & dirty folks:https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005007707286488.html

 

[Mini Me]

I have had extensive experience with VFD's and AFAIK they only output 3 phase. Having said that I have never had the need to use single phase so there may be something out there. The is a VFD that can step up voltage using 3 phase that IIRC sourced from the UK. The voltage is simple it is the hertz that is the problem.

 

[jonnyrocket]

… It only pulls 1100 watts supposedly which is way under the limit for the transformer

1100 watts is likely the steady state power rating. I’m assuming you are getting this off of the label?  Anytime a motor starts, the inrush current is many times the steady state current. Even with soft start electronics, which most festool routers have, and I’m assuming that the Mafell will also have, inrush currents will exceed 2x or 3x of the steady state.

I don’t want to say that this is definitive, (I’ve never used a Mafell tool myself) but it’s the inadequate power supply that is limiting the router from starting, not the frequency. As you try to power up this tool on your step up transformer, the voltage it is supplying to the router will begin to drop sharply as the current demanded exceeds its capabilities.

With the router being variable speed, the room itself already has a VFD incorporated and so the incoming frequency from the power grid is not likely to be the issue. But there always is that possibility.

Do you have a 240V outlet in your shop for any larger tools like a table saw or planer/jointer? If not, and you are drawn to European tools, it would be very beneficial to have an electrician come out and install an appropriate 240V outlet in your shop. For most European tools it would need to be only a 15A circuit, thus being more economical than a typical 30A or 40A dual voltage 120/240V circuit that are used here for larger appliances. Compared to installing an outlet for typical 120V, the cost in materials is only on average $25 dollars more. This however is dependent upon your electrical panel.
Going this route would allow you to bypass the transformer and use a custom pigtail adapter to convert our NEMA based receptacle to the proper European receptacle and not have to modify any of the power tool cords.

 

[woodferret]

Ya, inrush current is probably the culprit. 

One can build a soft-start adapter using a NTC thermistors. 

Usually you won't see these sold as a unit just because it does generate heat, and Little Jimmy with their Tourette's trigger-finger will say it's not working.  Anyways, have fun.

edit: I think I had mino's DCAC post on the brain.  The inrush applies there.  Not as much with transformers.  It's likely the IPC.

 

[RoboDoc]

I appreciate the comments. Just to answer some of them:

I have multiple 240V outlets in my shop and I am completely in favor of plugging this thing directly into my 240 V outlet. Several have suggested that option but no-one has provided me with much in the way of info about wiring up an adapter from the european two prong plug to my L14-30 240V socket. I can't find anything on the internet about that exact task. When I wire up extension cords or place L14-30 plugs on my stationary tools it's very simple. There are two 120V "hot" conductors and a ground at both ends. In this case, there is supposedly a 240V "hot" conductor and a neutral. So how exactly is the adapter wired? Is it you connect the two 120V "hot" conductors from the USA 240 V to a single prong of the european plug with ground to the other? Or is it that you connect a single 120V conductor to each of the pins on the European plug? This seems like a very basic question but I honestly don't know the answer and don't want to blow this thing up first try.....

 

[woodbutcherbower]

All professional power tools in the UK are available as either 240v or 110v - with the reason being that 110v is mandatory on construction sites because of the lower risk if cables get accidentally severed or similar. Mafell make two ‘universal’ motors for every tool - a 240 and a 110. There’s no third motor designed specifically for 120v/60Hz, which suggests that the frequency isn’t your problem. The construction sites over here supply 240v, and every worker carries his own portable stepdown transformer.

I’d add that there’s at least one forum member who has imported a 110v Festool tool from the UK and it’s worked perfectly from Day#1. I’m not an expert by any means - but I’d suggest that the different wiring protocol in a (presumably) US transformer might be your problem.

On UK transformers, both wires are hot. One wire is +55V and the other is 55V. There's your 110V. The motor sees 110V and it remains happy. Just like how you can get 240V in the US with two 120V from split phase.

 

[RoboDoc]

Thanks that information concerning the UK wiring is extremely helpful. Will give it a shot tomorrow.

 

[jonnyrocket]

I can't find anything on the internet about that exact task. When I wire up extension cords or place L14-30 plugs on my stationary tools it's very simple. There are two 120V "hot" conductors and a ground at both ends. In this case, there is supposedly a 240V "hot" conductor and a neutral. So how exactly is the adapter wired?

Take one of the two “hot” legs from your circuit and connect it to the terminal for the “hot” on the European connector. Take the other “hot” leg and connect it to the terminal for the “neutral” wire on the European connector.  In any AC circuit, once the tool is running, both the “hot” and “Neutral” conductors will have current flowing through them, and are both considered “hot” at that point.

The biggest cause of confusion for most people is the fact in North America, for 240V, the “neutral” for your electrical panel isn’t needed.  However in most circuits in our homes that use 240V, the neutral is being supplied. For example, a clothes dryer or Electric range. Those circuits and Plugs for those devices, are the dual voltage type which can provide either 120V or 240V. This is required because parts of the appliance only require 120V.  Such as the light bulb inside your clothes dryer or the oven. But the heating element requires 240V. Hence the need to supply a circuit that has both voltages available (and this happens with the presence of the neutral and the two hot legs). The light bulb gets 120V from one hot leg and the neutral, and all the heating elements get 240V connecting to the two hot legs, with one of them taking the place of the “neutral”.

Hopefully this is clear enough. If not I can find some diagrams.

 

[Cheese]

Here's what jonnyrocket is referring to.

[attachimg=1]

 

[RoboDoc]

So although I haven't been able to turn this thing on yet, I would say that it appears to be a fantastic router from a feature set. Very good size and the completely tool-less bit changing is amazing - not sure why this hasn't been done before. From my fiddling with it I find it will be likely more comfortable to use than my two smaller festool routers. Mafell in germany was very pleasant and kind in their reply to my email but the take home message was "this item is not available in north america so you should return it." I'm not surprised by that answer but they didn't clarify whether the electronics are faulting due to the 60Hz electrical signal (I realize the motor likely doesn't care) or not. So my "does the router care if its 50 or 60 Hz from an electronic standpoint" was not answered. They did clarify that "restart protection" just means that the router won't restart if the bit is in contact with the workpiece - not clear to me how they sense that but it is interesting. The router also has some automated cooling functions which I haven't seen previously. If it runs as described this might be the holy grail of midsized routers but can't test that if it won't turn on.

So the first step of the plan is to build an adapter and try it out on 240v 60 Hz line current to see if the problem is the startup current draw from the transformer. If that proves unsuccessful then I have to decide whether I want to invest more to get a frequency convertor (not an inexpensive option and probably foolish but I kind of want to know the final answer here so I can share with you all....). Hopefully that bridge doesn't need to be crossed but we shall see.

 

[Cheese]

I'm wiring a new garage with 120V 20A receptacles throughout. However, I'm also installing a few 250V 20A receptacles at the same time so that I can power 220V/240V items.

One of these Type F Schucko to NEMA 220V 15A adapters should work for your situation.

[attachimg=1]

 

[WillAdams]

I use a 220V (European Residential) Mafell FM 1000 WS on one of my CNC machines with a 110V--220V step-up transformer (apparently it will work as a step-down if things are reversed.

The URL for the specific one I purchased doesn't work anymore:
https://www.voltage-converter-transformers.com/products/vt-4000-step-up-down-transformer-4000-watts

going by that rating I'd guess the replacement would be:
https://www.voltage-converter-trans...step-up-down-voltage-transformer-ce-certified

but that's just a guess.

 

[woodbutcherbower]

Your major mistake is that you haven't considered the simplest and most logical solution which is staring you right in the face. Forget about voltages and frequencies, and leave the router unplugged from any electrical source.

Then - place the LO55 against your workpiece, select the appropriate cutter, set your plunge depth, place your finger against the collet and spin it manually - really, really, really fast. I've been using this method for years on my Festool OF2200 (I bought it cheap because the previous owner burned out the motor) and a Makita RP1100C (which has no motor at all - why pay the extra?).

The results are seamless. I attached a picture below of my very best work - easily achievable without the needless inconvenience of this new-fangled 'electricity' nonsense. I'm pretty sure that Mafell will have deliberately engineered your 'no-start' machine so that you'll quickly discover this optimum solution. Gotta love those Germans.

[attachimg=1]

 

[woodbutcherbower]

Something I forgot to mention;

Routing oak, sapele, iroko or other hardwoods? Wrap a long piece of string around the collet (a few hundred yards will do just fine) and tie the other end to the collar of your dog. Set up the router, and then get your wife to go outside in the garden and shout 'Dinner time' so that your dog runs towards the plate of juicy steak she's temptingly placed on the grass. You'll achieve at least 10,000rpm for at least 3 seconds ***

*** Legal disclaimer = results may vary according to collet diameter and dog leg length. Dachshunds and Chihuahas specifically excluded ***

 

[jeh]

I have made my own 8” adaptor cords for my 110v UK tools. No issues whatsoever. I know I could cut the plug end off and replace but my adapter cord does the trick. You can find the female UK plugs on eBay that connect to their power tools. They are yellows and watertight.

I just bought the LO 55 but have not had time to make an adapter. Maybe later this week.

 

[RoboDoc]

So in recognition of the great suggestions here, I built the adapter to connect the router to the wall 240V supply. This allowed me to take the transformer out of the loop. Similar negative results with illumination light working but error and no motor startup. Based on this either (1) the machine is faulty which I doubt or (2) the electronics insist on 50Hz power frequency. I realize the motor probably doesn't care but clearly the electronics do. So unless I can find a way to test this thing with 50 Hz power, I appear to be out of luck.

 

[jonnyrocket]

So in recognition of the great suggestions here, I built the adapter to connect the router to the wall 240V supply. This allowed me to take the transformer out of the loop. Similar negative results with illumination light working but error and no motor startup. Based on this either (1) the machine is faulty which I doubt or (2) the electronics insist on 50Hz power frequency. I realize the motor probably doesn't care but clearly the electronics do. So unless I can find a way to test this thing with 50 Hz power, I appear to be out of luck.

That’s unfortunate.
Earlier, you mentioned that Mafell indicated to you in the email that the restart protection circuitry won’t let the router start if it is in contact with the stock. Based on this, have you verified that the shaft is able to spin freely before you are trying to power it on? I’m just curious if the fault you are seeing is related to that feature.