A rather large Jarrah Pedestal table.

ROb McGilp

Member
Joined
Apr 5, 2007
Messages
430
Hello all,
This is a solid Jarrah Dining table. It is 2.6m long,1.15m wide and 730mm high. All timber is 45mm deep...and weighs a ton!
The table was made solely using
1. TS75 and rail.
2. Domino and tenons, 10x50, 6x40 and home made Jarrah tenons, 50x50x56mm.
Rotex 150FEQ and grits from 50 up to 4000.
4. DTS400 for tight spots.
5. C12 drill and square head screws.
6. Kapex SCMS (through tenons) and cut to length.

The table at this point only needs waxing, which will be done by hand. Also, the chair is Red Gum and is part of my own dining setting. Its just there as an interloper (sort of lke the models who drape over cars at the car shows ;D ;D.)
 
Rob McGilp said:
Also, the chair is Red Gum and is part of my own dining setting. Its just there as an interloper

Whereas the large, empty Kapex box is there to taunt our American cousins  ;D

Seriously, that's a really nice job!
 
jonny round boy said:
...
Whereas the large, empty Kapex box is there to taunt our American cousins  ;D
...
Of course it is.  That's the whole point of the post!  ;D

And yes, that is a GREAT table! 

Dan.
 
jonny round boy said:
Whereas the large, empty Kapex box is there to taunt our American cousins  ;D

Yeah, very nice Jonny.  We're supposed to support each other here!

Excellent project Rob!  I could learn something from this, as I am planning a couple of pedestal tables myself these days.  Although my plans call for round tables with a center pedestal, I plan to use the Domino in a similar way that you describe.

Thanks,
Matthew

PS: For those of you who don't know what the Kapex is, click these links:http://festoolownersgroup.com/index.php?topic=158.0http://festoolownersgroup.com/index.php?topic=821.0
 
I just thought I'd show the table now complete except for a couple more coats of wax. The shine is courtesy of Rosie the RO150FEQ, 2000 and 4000g Platin 2 pads and some UBeaut Traditional wax buffed up with lambswool.

Regards,

Rob
 
OK Now it's finished. Added a few chairs I scrounged. Note the total lack of a Kapex Box. ;D

Rob
 
Rob, once again your work looks most excellant and thank you for posting. I use to complete alot of fine furniture with oil/wax finishes due to many of the known plusses despite its equally known minuses. One thing that bothered me most though the most was letting a piece go to a someone elses home knowing that despite giving instruction on care of the finish I never felt comfortable that the owner would or ever could keep up with it satisfactorily for the life of the item. What feedback do you get from your customers about finish maintenance? Is maintenance-free an American thing?
 
Hi Woodenfish,

Thank you for the kind comments.
I guess theanswer lies in several areas. So I'll note them.
1. Firstly, I believe that wax gives a character to an oil finish like very little else and requires some patience and effort. In addition, the wax I use (UBeaut Traditional wax;http://www.ubeaut.com.au/ubhome.htm) has a very low Bees wax component and gives a very resilient finish, if applied properly. You will find NA distributors at this URL. I would also consider acquiring some EEE creme. This takes the raw finish up about 4 fold.
I sand to 400g, then saturate with oil and sand again through from 400, 600, 800, 1200, 1500 then to 2000 and 4000g, the last two discs are a 2000g and 4000g Platin 2 pad. I find that the better the friction seal, the better the end result is.
This gives a very well sealed surface and I have actually left this surface for 6 months or more with no degradation. The sheen at this point is as good as many Poly or wax finishes done only to 4-600g. (Adding the wax just adds a 4th dimension!!)
I have found that leaving the timber in this state for up to a week before applying the first coat of wax is very beneficial. Repeat waxing for a further 3-4 coats at 3-5 days apart really builds up a high patina and resilience. I have a coffee table which is in use daily, which was prepared using this method (its the one on Brice's site) and requires only a wipe down and possibly a buff as routine maintenance. Waxing is a last resort.
2. I find it very useful to involve the customer in the process of construction of their piece. I create a sub domain off my web page, dedicated to their piece and update it as I go. This gives them a feeling of being an integral part of the construction in what they have chosen to purchase. They become quite excited about the arrival of their new acquisition. When it comes to what finish they want, almost invariably they ask for wax. Particularly when you explain the warmth and depth that the wax brings. They want nothing less that the best by this stage.
3. Along with a "care and feeding" guide, I give them a pot of the wax so that they can continue to feel that it is their baby and has been since day #1.
The Jarrah table here is going to a house with two under 5 year olds and still the parents have insisted on a wax finish after seeing the finish in person. They know the potential problems, but are prepared to accept them for the final warmth and appearance they will get.
This may sound like Dodgy Brothers sales, but I believe so strongly that a wax and oil finish is the best way to go for quality furniture that I will do almost anything to ensure people are made to see this.
4. Fast and immediate are a problem for furniture makers all over the world I believe, but someone has to maintain the art that is involved in fine furniture making and that falls to those of us who care enough.

"Do not go quietly into the night, but rage against the machine".

Hope that helps,

Regards,

Rob
 
Back
Top